x member ideas! (1 Viewer)

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Hey all...
Looking for some ideas on a x member for this.
Ive talked with a few folks, but Im looking for more opinons.
Actually, any information I can get would be helpful as well as pics for those who have stumbled upon anything is your web wheeling.

Ill be using a rubber mount under the trans/ adapter (the very end of the trans in the pic below). This is an 1.5x1.5 in mounting surface and the very bottom of it is DEAD EVEN with the bottom of the frame. I was thinking traditional \_/ type thing with a 1/2 in plate at the flat bottom part, and some 1/4 in wall, 1x2 in steel up to the frame.

Any help would be greatly appreciated!

Thanks,

Keith
 
Oh yeah...the pic of what Im looking at!
006 (7).JPG
 
How thick of a rubber mount do you think Ill need?
 
I'm not sure what you'll end up doing but I splice industrial conveyor belt and do rubber bonding/lining for work. Let me know if I can help you out when you decide what you need. I've got lots of rubber rems for a fellow Toyota builder.
 
I'm not sure what you'll end up doing but I splice industrial conveyor belt and do rubber bonding/lining for work. Let me know if I can help you out when you decide what you need. I've got lots of rubber rems for a fellow Toyota builder.

Thanks for the offer.
I may take you up on that!

Appreciate it!

K
 
is that adapter the same upside-down? so you can do this with rubber?
yotabuild063.jpg


here is what i did, different parts and bad pics but you get the idea:
xmember1at.JPG

xmember2at.JPG
 
I like the way that you did yours. Nice, simple and effective.

Great idea!
 
is that adapter the same upside-down?

If the adapter gets turned upside down then so will the 203 box. The adapter has a relief in it to keep the idler shaft. Then that will turn the tcase upside down too since that only bolts up one way between the 203 and splitcase.
 
If the adapter gets turned upside down then so will the 203 box. The adapter has a relief in it to keep the idler shaft. Then that will turn the tcase upside down too since that only bolts up one way between the 203 and splitcase.


Check, not familar with the 203.
 
is that adapter the same upside-down? so you can do this with rubber?
yotabuild063.jpg


here is what i did, different parts and bad pics but you get the idea:
xmember1at.JPG

xmember2at.JPG

Busta...
Did that rubber mount come with the t case, or did you scrounge that up from somewhere? If you got it from somewhere, Id like to know where you got it from. In gonna have to track down something for this. After reading boot's build and posting a couple of questions, it seems that the ideal place to have the soft mounts is under the t case/ trans and not at the frame in the form of shackle bushings like I had originally planned.
 
That is a very common energy suspension transmission mount

Energy Suspension 3-1108G - Energy Suspension Transmission Mounts - Overview - SummitRacing.com

Most decent auto parts stores will have them on their shelves.

:beer:

Thanks for that info brother!
I ended up getting a 203 t case mount from summit. Ill only use half of it though. Im basically F*CKED with the x member position at this point and Im not sure what Im gonna do with it. Seems the only option is to mount it basically across the bottom of the frame rail. To minimize obtrusion, I may end up using 1/2 in plate with tabs at the frame rails and bolt it up that way.
The t cases set waaaaaay different than I thought.
however, I actaully helps in other aspects....
 
Just to wrap up this thread for future searchers...

Here is what I came up with for the solution....

The key component is the 1 1/4 x 3/8 wall DOM with a 1/2 in ID.
The plate is 1/4 in, and the bolt is a grade 8, 1/2 in.
I set the x member in place (1/2 in x 2.5 in wide plate steel) And then built the bracket off of it.

Hope this helps someone!

Keith
004 (2).JPG
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THat 1/2" plate is not going to be strong enough without some sort of gussetts.

Flat 1/2" plate is not all that hard to bend..
 
THat 1/2" plate is not going to be strong enough without some sort of gussetts.

Flat 1/2" plate is not all that hard to bend..

ah yes...
I forgot to mention that part of it. 1x2x1/4 in wall will be run across the bottom.

My bad!

Keith
 
ah yes...
I forgot to mention that part of it. 1x2x1/4 in wall will be run across the bottom.

My bad!

Keith

Square tubing? I'd run it along the top in the sections that you can, then overlap it on the bottom where the bolts are.
 
Square tubing? I'd run it along the top in the sections that you can, then overlap it on the bottom where the bolts are.

Yes, square tubing.
How come you would run it on the top vs the bottom? Clearance? I had thought about what you are describing for clearance issues, but I figured that one long piece along the bottom would better achieve the result that id want?
Guess that it wouldnt matter either way, like you said, if they over lap.
 
I'm not seeing the reason for bar stock either Chicago. You want as much depth in the material as possible. Why couldn't you have only used some 2x2 or 1 1/2x 1 1/2 box in say the 1/4" thick variety? The ends could be bent up and coped with you're tube frame mounts, and you could drill the tube out for the bolts, and even recess the bolts through the tube. Seems much easier than welding a bunch of box to that bar. If this doesn't make sense, I can sketch it out for ya....
 

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