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Valve adjustment ????'s

Discussion in '40- & 55-Series Tech' started by ScottFJ40, Feb 19, 2003.

  1. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    I am looking over my engine FSM, and they say to set the engine at idle speed, and check valve clearance, then adjust if necessary.

    Are they saying to have the engine running while you check the clearances?

    The Haynes says something about rotating the engine or something.

    Any help would be much appreciated.

    I am having trouble with the search function, it always says, closed by server.
     
  2. IDave

    IDave

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    Yes, you should check the clearances with the engine running. The result will be more accurate than if you don't. I am not certain with the rocker setup on an F engine that you can do the adjustment with them going, I didn't. But on some engines you can do that, too. ::)
     
  3. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    OK , do I need to rotate the engine to tdc for each set of valves? I'm still not clear on the provedure.
     
  4. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

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    Scott,

    IMHO follow the procedure in the Haynes Manual to adjust the valve/rocker clearance. This is a static set up performed after you have warmed up the engine to op temps. If after that you have a noisy one or two then I would check the clearances with the engine running.
     
  5. Erics75

    Erics75

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    I have never adjusted valves on a Toyota with the engine running. On small block Chevys it is done with the engine running because they use hydraulic lifters but if its the stock F or 2F they are solid lifters so do it with the engine off. You need to warm the engine to opperating temperature then shut it off and rotate the engine to top dead center of the firing stroke on the #1 cylinder, then adjust #1,2,3,5,7,and 9 ( double check your manual ). Then rotate the engine 360 degrees and adjust #4,6,8,10,11, and 12. Again check your manual but I recall the adjustments at .009 on the intake and .015 on the exhaust. If the engine cools off before you are done then warm it up again, otherwise after all that work, you may have a noisy valve train.
     
  6. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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    It is really easy to check the valves with the engine running. You use a two step, go, no-go procedure. First check for tight valves using .008 intake and .014 exhaust. If the gauge won't go, then you stop the engine and adjust it. Tight valves are much worse than loose ones. Then take a gauge .002 larger and check for loose ones. If the large gauge goes, then stop and adjust the valve. It takes longer to type this than to check the valves. If it wasn't the best way, Toyota wouldn't tell you to do it.

    What you typically find is that after the valves have been adjusted very few if any need adjustment and if they do, it is telling you something about wear on the valve train.
     
  7. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

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    Eric,

    I have never heard of such a thing with hyd lifters.
     
  8. IDave

    IDave

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    One of the greatest advantages of checking the valve clearances running is that the rocker arms can bind a little when stopped. You avoid that issue, which can result in improperly set gaps, by doing minor adjustments in the correct direction, but not measuring the gap while the engine is stopped.  I think you still must to do the adjustment with the engine stopped, however.  You just have to be sure that the space is open when you do the adjustment (which is the case 3/4 of the cycle).  No need to find exact TDC. Additionally, if you check the gaps with the engine running intermittantly, you have no danger of the engine cooling  while you are working, which will also affect your measurements, as Eric points out.
     
  9. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    Excellent advice ! This place rocks! :D

    The start/stop method sounds like a winner.

    Heres another dumb question ??? , should I buy one of those remote start switches to rotate my engine in between? Or should I just put a socket on the crank bolt?

    Thanks again. :D
     
  10. IDave

    IDave

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    I just start the engine the usual way since I am checking the gap running. I don't think you'll find the crank-nut wrench method very useful since you don't need to find exact TDC. If you want to make fine adjustments on the cycle without starting up, just leave the rig in gear and roll it on your garage floor. A lot easier than sticking a wrench in the tight place between belt/pulley/radiator.
     
  11. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    OK, it just all came together for me. Now if I can get the weather to cooperate this weekend. 8)
     
  12. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

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    When static adjusting using either the push it across the garage floor method or putting a socket on the crank bolt, pull all the plugs out first, it makes life just that much easier.
     
  13. Erics75

    Erics75

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    Hi Todd, what I was referring to was that on hydraulic lifters they are much more forgiving in that when adjusting with the engine running you can literally adjust them by ear. Clearances can vary much more than Solid because the Hydraulic lifters have a "range" in which they can opperate. While adjusting valves with solid lifters when the engine is running is fine for those of you with the experience, and I'm not knocking Scott but, it sounds as if his level of experience is limited ( nothing wrong with that ) and adjusting when the engine is NOT running is safer, cleaner, easier on the feeler gauge and I feel there is less chance of over tightening the valves. If you really want to get an accurate adjustment you can use a Dial Indicator, but thats even more tedious.
     
  14. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    You are right, my experience is very limited, as in no experience. This will be my first time ever adjusting valves.

    I now feel confident that I can do it, no problem, with the help from all you guys.

    Thanks!
     
  15. Pin_Head

    Pin_Head

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  16. IDave

    IDave

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    Yeah, it is pretty clear from the manual that the Toyota engineers intend for it to be done this way, not static.
     
  17. toddslater

    toddslater SILVER Star

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    Apparently, the difference herein lies in which manual you are reading....Haynes provides for performing the static method and apparently the TSM tells you to do it running.  I looked into my SBF engine building manual and it says do either.  At the end of the day by either method, when it comes time to actually adjust it...the motor is static.  It certainly isn't rocket science and if Mr. Gasket still makes rocker arm clips ...they help keep the splash down for those who like doing while running. Also, you need to check you valve lash around every 10k, the reason being the valve adjusting nuts back off gradually..even with jam nuts or kool nuts.
     
  18. Erics75

    Erics75

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    I think I will adjust when the engine is running from now on, it seems to be the method of choice for most of you. One thing I will say is you won't have to worry about the engine cooling down, and it sucks to adjust all the valves, button it up and then hear a tick,tick,tick in the valve train.
     
  19. Chef

    Chef

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    I've never adjusted Toyota valves with the engine running. I pull the air cleaner, get it warm, pull the rocker cover, run the vavles. It takes about 10 minutes once you have a good feel for it...I use a wrench on the alternator to turn the motor over. The feeler guage should feel like pulling a piece of paper out from under the phone book when the setting is right. I also usually push down on the pushrod end of the rocker to eliminate any free play. Don't forget to hold the adjuster with a screwdriver while you tighten the locknut, and then re-check...If you have bindy rocker arms, you have other problems in the valve train that need to be addressed...Just my devalued .02, Alan
     
  20. ScottFJ40

    ScottFJ40

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    Just wanted to thank everyone for their input. Today I did the valve adjustment, first time for me.

    I used the start/check/stop/adjust/start/check method. Worked great!

    A few of my valves were a bit tight, so they are loosened. It makes just as much noise as before, which isn't too terribly much. I've heard that it's better to be loose than tigh, is this correct?

    Thanks again IH8MUD guys and gals!