Tech Questions Here (1 Viewer)

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Bayou State Land Cruiser Association
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Just like the title says if you have a tech question you don't want to ask in the general forum feel free to post it here. We have some knowledgable folks here that can answer your questions or that may have run into the same issues. If we don't know the answer we can point you there. :)
 
Something I learned while on vacation building 74 frame and driveline/70 body for my Dad. To fit an early model 1F oil pan (Off a 70 model) on a later model 1F in a 74 model with the newer oil pump you have to bend the fin in the oil pan closest to the drain plug to get it to fit. If you don't the pan will not seat flat.

Gasket advice: I was on a tight timeline and ordered the Fel Pro gasket from Advanced auto parts which is a 4 piece cork. The sides fit perfectly but trying to get the end pieces it while putting up the pan is a heck of a challege even with using a tube of silicone to try and stick them in. Short story was $15 thrown away. I called Toyota today and ordered the factory gasket which is a 1 piece and the way to go. About $19 with our discount. Just FYI next time you need a gasket or crack your oil pan on a rock :D
 
Okay, I was about to post this on the 60s forum (still will).

Is the pickup on my rig supposed to be turtle slow? I don't want a drag racer and I know it doesn't compare to the get up that my pickup truck has, but is something off? What really makes me wonder is that when I hit about 52 miles per hour, all of a sudden, I can jump from there to 70 with no problem at all. It's actually surprising how quick it gets after 52 mph. But getting to 52 seems to take forever.

Just wondering. Let's here it.
 
cajun65 said:
Okay, I was about to post this on the 60s forum (still will).

Is the pickup on my rig supposed to be turtle slow? I don't want a drag racer and I know it doesn't compare to the get up that my pickup truck has, but is something off? What really makes me wonder is that when I hit about 52 miles per hour, all of a sudden, I can jump from there to 70 with no problem at all. It's actually surprising how quick it gets after 52 mph. But getting to 52 seems to take forever.

Just wondering. Let's here it.
Click to expand...

From what I've read Marty your truck is normal. Even in perfect mechanical condition you wouldn't see much more improvements. An automatic FJ62 and even the 80's don't have that much get up and go but thats not what they were made for and they are some heavy beasts.
 
The shift points on AUTO tranny are controlled by computer. On my 80 series, there's a POWER button you can press. This simply burns more gas, because it changes the RPM/SPEED at which it shifts from first to second,third,etc. Anyway, that said, I run a Flowmaster exhaust, with Magnaflow catalytic, and like to leave the PWR button on. I find that its plenty fast for me. The air cleaner in the FJ62 is pretty sizable, but the FJ60 stock air cleaner is ridiculously small and restrictive. I agree with Larry that for you year/model, that's about right.
 
On the 3FE, it's pretty darn good...the air cleaner is nice and not like the late 70's early 80's 2F design...also, the headers and larger exhaust help a little, but I don't expect huge gains. I think about 2.5" to 3" max is great on these sized engines.
 
ok guys got to drive the crusier today. bad news is i have a very bad vibration above 30 mph. need some help with what to look at to fix this problem.:doh:
 
cajun65 said:
Next question: Does the speedometer connect in any way to the tranny? Mine went out this week. I wonder if there is a correlation to the recent work done and it going out.

MC
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Marty, it is attached. Crawl under there at you'll see it...cable just screws on. Unscrew it, and pull out. Inspect. There are like 2 washers with a gasket in the middle of them and on the end of the cable itself it a prop-like piece that spins. Might have come loose, or broke...check it out and report.

my81fj said:
ok guys got to drive the crusier today. bad news is i have a very bad vibration above 30 mph. need some help with what to look at to fix this problem.:doh:
Click to expand...

4" lift. How much shackle lift if any?
This one is very very different for everyone. SOme people lift 3 or 4" and have no vibrations or nothing. Others, simply lift 2.5" and shackles, and they get problems. I think that the Shackles really throw off the pinion angle, since it lifts unevenly on one side only. I think that if you get a angle finder and get your pinion angles front and rear the same (no matter what they are), you'll be fine. But, what I did on my rig was time-consuming and a PITA, but worked awesome. I calculated the proper Castor for my rig and shimmed it up right---This made my rig ride awesome, straight and true...no following lines in the road, etc.
Secondly, I measured the front pinion angle and ordered shims for the rear. In my case, it was 4degree and 6 degree.....different front and rear.

Final note: Assuming that you didn't take the rear driveshaft off and put on out of phase, there's another possible cause...but before I go there, just get try to get your front and rear pinion angles the SAME and that will probably do it.

Anyway, what happens is that the SLIGHTEST wear in the driveline ANYWHERE (U-joints---check them) Ujoints, tranny, transfer case, etc) translates into MAJOR vibes after a lift. Some folks try everything and then end up rebuilding their transfer case and/or tranny and it is resolved.

Also, search the forum for ideas and info. Use Advanced. But alot of the info is highly opinion. the bottom line is that you have to get your front and rear pinion angles equal...whatever that takes...different brands of springs are different, eveyone's rig different, so measure it and see. This means that they should be parallel to each other.

OH YEAH: Make sure that if you don't have shackle reversal (like Larry's and Armond's) then you need the THICK part of the shims pointed to the FRONT of your rig both front and rear axle...The Thicker side of the wedge needs to face the front of the truck on ALL SHIMS unless you have a shackle reversal....but again, the pinion angles will be WAY off if one of them is reversed.

Mike
 
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I think I need to do some work on the cooling system on my truck. At idle and up to about 55 in runs a constant 190 degrees, hell even crawling around on the trail it runs cool. but get it on interstate about 70-75 and it comes up to 205 and when in the mud while I was running it hard I once saw it come up to 220. I stopped and let it idle to keep the coolant circulating through the head and it cooled down to 190 again in about 2 or three min but I dont know what could be causing it to act liek this.

It always ran a steady 190 regardless of what I did with my old clapped out engine. Thermostat sticking and not alowing full flow?
 
Opposite here....I even checked my gauge against the GM computer and its 180's even after driving all day in 100F. I think that my FJ60 fan clutch and larger radiator is why...plus Oil cooler helps I'm sure... remember what they were saying about your fan maybe blowing wrong? Hmmmm....
 
tabascoloco said:
Opposite here....I even checked my gauge against the GM computer and its 180's even after driving all day in 100F. I think that my FJ60 fan clutch and larger radiator is why...plus Oil cooler helps I'm sure... remember what they were saying about your fan maybe blowing wrong? Hmmmm....
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thats true... I fixed it so that it is drawing, but if the blades are in the wrong position then they would not be workign at their peak efficiency . I am about to take it off and put a clutch fan and shroud back on I really didn't feel any differance when I put the electric fan on anyway.
 
BikerTrash said:
thats true... I fixed it so that it is drawing, but if the blades are in the wrong position then they would not be workign at their peak efficiency . I am about to take it off and put a clutch fan and shroud back on I really didn't feel any differance when I put the electric fan on anyway.
Click to expand...

Also if your radiator coils are gummed up with mud or just insect crap over the years it won't let the air circulate through the radiator. The gumbo MUD you went through this weekend will do that I've seen it many times in those situations. You can run both the fan clutch and electric fan for extra cooling reloacte it to the front of the radiator if its not already there just reverse the fan so it pushes rather than pulls.

LL
 
BikerTrash said:
thats true... I fixed it so that it is drawing, but if the blades are in the wrong position then they would not be workign at their peak efficiency . I am about to take it off and put a clutch fan and shroud back on I really didn't feel any differance when I put the electric fan on anyway.
Click to expand...

A GOOD electric fan should be awesome. I thought about one for my rig...why? AC would blow a little colder for one.....secondly, WATER CROSSINGS!!!!!! I could put a switch to turn the fan off while crossing streams....but honestly, how often is that really??? Unless you a Colicious that is ;)
 
tabascoloco said:
A GOOD electric fan should be awesome. I thought about one for my rig...why? AC would blow a little colder for one.....secondly, WATER CROSSINGS!!!!!! I could put a switch to turn the fan off while crossing streams....but honestly, how often is that really??? Unless you a Colicious that is ;)
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LOL. i can see myself getting in trouble in water before anything else. but thats a good idea with the cutoff switch for water crossings. ive heard of people putting tarps in front of the car to protect the fan, but TBH, i would probably be to lazy to do that. a switch would be great, as long as you dont forget to turn it back on:doh:
 
I made a few attempts at the driveshaft thing with no luck. I'm probably not doing it right. I should be back this weekend, I'm in MS right now. The help from someone that knows what they are doing would be great. Thanks guys
 
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