Tandem Off-Road 2G Sequoia Platinum Lift System Install Instructions (1 Viewer)

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mexellent

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We have found that the rear airbags in the IRS in the 2G Sequoia work amazingly well in this platform. They offer a ton of advantages with very little downsides. They allow the truck to self level and adapt to whatever weight its carrying and they don't bind like the springs do during articulation. They are very tough and reliable. We have designed the PLS to return the airbag to the height that it sits in at factory ride height.

Contents:

We are currently only including 1 nig and 2 nib arms with the installation since we found the 3 nib arms to be excessive.

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These instructions are written assuming you are using a vehicle lift. It should be possible without a lift, but we have not done it here.

-Make sure the vehicle is off and the key is out of the ignition. The automatic ride height system on the 2nd Gen Sequoia responds very well to these modifications. However, it can act up if it gets readings from the sensors that are too far out of range or have too much deviation from right to left. We found this can best be avoided by keeping the ignition completely off until these modifications are fully installed. This avoids the system getting any crazy ride height sensor values while you are still in the install process. However, the final ride height adjustments can be done with the ignition on (covered in Part 3).

Part 1. Installing the Pucks.

Step 1A. Remove the Airbags
-With the vehicle on a lift, remove both rear wheels.
-Disconnect air lines going to rear airbags.
-Lift airbags from bottom to deflate and compress them.

Note: You might want to mark the position of the airbag at the top with a paint pen to help with re-assembly.

-Remove the retaining clip at the top of the airbag keeping it from rotating.
-Rotate airbags to remove them from top mount on chassis.
-Lower airbag and remove it from the vehicle.

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Step 1B. Install Platinum Puck Lift system Pucks.

-Drop the puck into the airbag pocket in the lower control arm.
-Rotate the puck until the three holes in the puck align with the three holes in the lower control arm.
-Install three m8 x 1.25 x 16mm button head screws (The shorter of the screws provided). The screws are installed from the bottom side of the lower control arm and thread into the puck. These secure the puck into the control arm.

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Step 1C. Reinstall the factory airbag.

-Take your compressed airbag and lift it into the top airbag pocket in reverse of the removal process.
-Rotate the airbag to engage the retaining tabs on the top. The correct position will be when the fitting the airline connects to is pointing to the rear of the vehicle and is accessible. Note that it is possible to engage only one of the two retaining tabs which is incorrect. Be sure they are both engaged.
-Reinstall the clip at the top of the airbag.

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Step 1D. Connect the airbag to the platinum puck

-Pull down on the bottom of the airbag slowly to extend it down. The bottom of the airbag has a disc with a large hole in. That hole slides over the top feature on the puck and the disc should sit onto the matching disc on the puck. Sometimes this is a snug fit so make sure the bag is fully seated onto the puck.
-Now install the longer m8x1.25 button head screw in the center of the lower control arm. This connects the puck to the airbag.
-Reconnect the airline to the airbag.
-Repeat for the other side.
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Part 2. Installing the Ride Height Arms.

Step 2A. Remove factory ride height arms.


Note: One end of the arm is connected to the ride height sensor, and the other end is connected to the linkage which connects to a bracket on the lower control arm.

-Start by marking the stud on the ride height sensor with a paint pin. Because there is a shoulder on the stud that the arm indexes to we need to mark its starting rotation to make sure we do not install the new ride height arm upside down.

-The new arms will be installed with the nibs pointing outward.

-Next remove the nut retaining the ride height arm onto the ride height sensor to remove the arm from the sensor. As mentioned, note the rough rotational position of the indexing shoulder on this stud, take a picture if it helps.

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Step 2B. Finish removing the ride height arm.

Take note which side of the arm the linkage is connected to.
-Remove the nut retaining the other end of the ride height arm which connects to the linkage. The factory arm is now removed.
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Step 2C. Install the tandem ride height arm to the linkage.

There are three arm options supplied with your kit. They are designated by one, two or three nibs on the side of the arm. Because of the adjustability built into the system there is some overlap between the options.

Most customers will use the two nib option.

Note: The arms will be installed with the nibs pointing towards the outside of the vehicle.

-Install the Tandem ride height arm to the linkage.

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Step 2D. Install the Tandem ride height arm to the ride height sensor.

-Drop the Tandem ride height arm onto the stud on the ride height sensor. Make sure to properly engage the indexing shoulder between arm and sensor stud.
-Now you can re-install the nut onto the stud retaining the arm. The challenge here is holding the arm so that it engages with the indexing shoulder while you tighten the nut.

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Make sure after them Tandem ride height arm is installed on the sensor that the arm is fully seated onto the indexing shoulder. There will be a small gap between the arm itself and the ride height sensor. If the gap is thicker than the thickness of the arm it may not be seated correctly. The gap should be similar to the image shown.
 
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Step 3A. Settle the rear suspension.

-Now that the installation of the parts is complete, lower the vehicle back to the ground. The rear suspension will be at maximum compression as the airbags are deflated.
-Now you can start the engine on the vehicle. Soon the air pump should begin inflating the airbags. The suspensions will be bound up and the final height the rear will sit at will not be apparent yet.
-Drive the vehicle around the block and over some bumps to get the rear suspension to fully settle.

Step 3B. Adjust the ride height.

-Fine tuning the ride height is accomplished by adjusting the position of the ride height linkage on the upper control arm. The linkage connects to a slotted bracket on the upper control arm. Adjusting towards the center of the vehicle (away from the wheel) will raise the ride height.
-Try to get both sides into a similar position.
-If you cannot get the rear high enough or low enough you will need to switch to a different set of ride height arms.

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Super cool kit. I love the airbags in my 2008 and with 317k miles they are still going strong. How much lift are you getting with this kit? I simply adjusted my ride height sensors and got enough lift to be happy with 265/70R20 tires. If I build another Sequoia though I would go for 35’s and want more.
 
Super cool kit. I love the airbags in my 2008 and with 317k miles they are still going strong. How much lift are you getting with this kit? I simply adjusted my ride height sensors and got enough lift to be happy with 265/70R20 tires. If I build another Sequoia though I would go for 35’s and want more.
Great to hear your airbags are still holding up after all those years and miles. I have 51k on my 21 and I’m wondering how long they’ll hold up with my gravel road use.
 
A couple of Sequoia’s I’ve looked at had airbags. I don’t mind them. I had them on my old GX470, which performed well.

But I was always leery of them failing at the worst time. ie Way out in the backcountry.

So I installed some Tiembren bumpstops. Which I hoped would allow me to limp home.

Would you all recommend the same here?

 
Super cool kit. I love the airbags in my 2008 and with 317k miles they are still going strong. How much lift are you getting with this kit? I simply adjusted my ride height sensors and got enough lift to be happy with 265/70R20 tires. If I build another Sequoia though I would go for 35’s and want more.
You get about 2 inches which is what we recommend. You could get more but after that it's difficult to get alignment in spec. There will be a bit of positive camber but the important thing is to make sure the toe hits factory specs and you even out the camber on both sides.


A couple of Sequoia’s I’ve looked at had airbags. I don’t mind them. I had them on my old GX470, which performed well.

But I was always leery of them failing at the worst time. ie Way out in the backcountry.

So I installed some Tiembren bumpstops. Which I hoped would allow me to limp home.

Would you all recommend the same here?


That would definitely help. We've been messing with them for about 3 years now and haven't seen a failure yet, doesn't mean it won't happen though.
 
You guys rock

I’m mainly looking to level the front plus maybe inch in overall front and back lift. Longer replacement shocks are a must even without a lift. But I wonder about a mild sensor lift vs your airbag lift with one nib arm.

Sensor lift will increase airbag pressure and air spring progression. I don’t like the idea of increasing the air pressure. The IRS seems like it already doesn’t like to compress to a point you hardly use all rear wheel travel. That might be a benefit for ground clearance, but it also leads to loss of traction during mild articulation. Increased pressure will also make it harder for a single shock compression setting to maintain comfort and control over different on road / off road conditions.

Your one nib arm lift range is for 0-1.5”. that could be interesting to try for little to no lift and lowering air spring pressure. How much did you guys try 0-1” lift and what were your thoughts on spring performance and shock adjustments?

Thanks!
 
@Diddly

You are overthinking the effects of a mild sensor lift for the back. You will not notice any difference in suspension performance. This is my truck with Bilstein 5100's on the lowest front perch and lifting the rear as high as possible with the factory arms to match the front. If you don't lift the rear it will have major rear squat and look like a Florida pickup truck. I thought by using the lowest perch setting it would level the truck, but it was more than I expected. The pic below is with a 3000lb trailer so it is just a tad lower in the back than usual and the tires are 275/60R20's Michelin LTX's. It sits perfect without trailer. Any more lift than this and Tandem Offroad is your answer.

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You guys rock

I’m mainly looking to level the front plus maybe inch in overall front and back lift. Longer replacement shocks are a must even without a lift. But I wonder about a mild sensor lift vs your airbag lift with one nib arm.

Sensor lift will increase airbag pressure and air spring progression. I don’t like the idea of increasing the air pressure. The IRS seems like it already doesn’t like to compress to a point you hardly use all rear wheel travel. That might be a benefit for ground clearance, but it also leads to loss of traction during mild articulation. Increased pressure will also make it harder for a single shock compression setting to maintain comfort and control over different on road / off road conditions.

Your one nib arm lift range is for 0-1.5”. that could be interesting to try for little to no lift and lowering air spring pressure. How much did you guys try 0-1” lift and what were your thoughts on spring performance and shock adjustments?

Thanks!
Oh, this is an excellent question.

Other than increased maintenance there is no downside to the air springs at all. Yes, adding pressure will make it more difficult to compress the suspension but that effort is WAY less than the coil bind you will experience with metal springs. Air suspension articulates more than a coil spring.

That being said, a 2G Sequoia does not articulate well. It just doesn't. We removed the sway bars and it gives for a smoother ride over very rough things but in terms of additional off-road performance we didn't notice an appreciable difference.

You give up articulation for ground clearance. A LOT OF GROUND CLEARANCE.
 

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