Poor-mans Inframe Rebuild (1 Viewer)

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Mar 13, 2003
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North Front Range, CO
In theory, what would be needed besides new rings, valve seals, manifold gaskets and head gasket if I were to attempt doing a poor-mans inframe rebuild? Mechanically, what would be needed? I guess a cylinder hone and some tools to remove the valves.

I have no plans to do this at this time as the motor is still strong AND I have no $$$$ right now if the head needed any work from machine shop. Just would like to know if such a rebuild is possible and how much it would cost vs just buying a use motor? Right now I just have a lot of blowby but motor is till strong and runs fine and is driven about 500 mi a week (less now that work is real slow).
 
Can you just drop the oil pans, remove the pistons and put new rings in piston and reinstall the pistons?

Would you use OEM rings or do you need to measure cylinder and get different size rings?
 
Why not just pull it? Takes like 3 or 4 hours and then you can do it on a stand without bending over the whole time.
 
Kurt,

Just removing the second oil pan is a PITA so that'll set you back a few hours but your theory seems sound to me. Remove the pistons, do a hone, then reinstall the cleaned pistons with new rings.
 
depends on how much lift you have if any. i can get to mine easily.. but i did rebuild the motor out of the rig :)
 
Pull the motor, well worth the effort !!!!!!!!
 
Just curious?
I haven't ever seen the inside of a 1fz, but yes, it is possible to do an inexpensive rebuild by removing the head and oil pans, replace the bearings/piston rings/and hone. I know everybody swears by oem, but you can buy quality aftermarket piston rings and bearings.
That is my straight answer to your question without me doing the typical internet thing by telling you my opinion.;)
If you want it just say so.
 
Ive never done anything like this until recently(2 this week) I pulled my head off of engine in frame with hood off. Pita, but not bad.
Then the donor engine was delivered by Ali on the castor stand and I can tell you I had the whole engine torn down and disassembled in a fraction of the time it took me to do just the head on the one in frame.
Rotating the stand and being able to see all around the pans and the bolts holding things together that are hard to see is so much easier, not to mention the torque you can apply to break the bolts loose, etc.
Those bars under the engine going all different directions will get old fast trying to pull the pans on your back not to mention all the dirt and gunk falling in your face the entire time.
 
I agree on pulling. Then you get into the leave or pull trans debate. Also on doing low $$ overhaul if crank/bores/pistons look acceptable. clean head/lap valves install new guide seals if guides not too worn and lash still ok. Forget all "while youre in there" unless absolutely needed and inside rotating assy. leave the timing chain-ps pump- injectors-etc alone. One VERY important thing you cant do with motor in is rear main seal. Use oem full gasket set-aftermarket bearings and rings.
 
I have no plans on doing an in frame right now but was thinking if I could just replace rings maybe my blowby would be reduced. If I have to do valve work I would rather just get a used motor. Probably cheaper and last longer than doing a ring and valve job.

The motor is still strong and think I have my oil consumption problem taken care of now that the crankcase can vent.
 
I did a write-up in the FAQ section on how to pull the #2 oil pan. It's truly a royal PITA and there are no short cuts, unfortunately. One mudder long time ago actually cut the bar that goes from left to right (no, not the panhard rod). After the oil pan was resealed he re-installed this bar. Just so everyone knows, how much lift you have has ZERO bearing on the removal of #2 oil pan. That stupid bar is what makes this project a PITA.

Kurt,
I'm not sure if you're gaining anything by going with an used, unknown to you engine. Unless of course, you get the used engine then do a full on rebuild on the stand and swap it into your ride, then that makes sense to me.
 
My 80 is on less than poor condition with rust, hail damage, loss of clear coat on paint and needs (drive shafts, spindles, axles, birfields, exhaust, cats, driver seat, suspension, etc). The 80 should of been replaced long time ago but with the fall of the oil industry, I had to keep it. If I start to put money in it, I would have to start to do all the other repairs to justify spending money on a rebuild or rebuilt motor. All that it will get now will be enough maintenance to keep it alive till I get a better job where I can upgrade to a newer land cruiser (less miles) or buy a daily use car (Supra). But right now I am not making enough to cover rent let alone repairs on the 80.

There is nothing wrong with the 80, it can and does make the 96 mi commute to Denver every day. I just need to pick and choose what needs replacing to make the trip to Alaska (if I get the job). If I stay in the lower 48, it will be just a cross country trip and little to nothing will be needed to be repaired as I have made several cross country trips in the last year or so with no problems.

If I dont get a better job, I will have no choice but to just drive it till it quits. That could be a long time though.
 
You're in a tough spot but sounds like a solid plan. 96 miles commute in a 80, holy schmoly!!!! You're supporting OPEC quite nicely, LOL!!
 
Use to be 75 mi one way 150 round trip back when it was $80+ to fill gas tank. I got smart and bought a supra and used that when it was not snowing. Got cought a couple times in the snow. Rear wheel drive on worn sport tires makes for fun ride. Sold it when commute was 7mi.

I was supporting my self, I work(ed) in the oilfield.

I am self sacrificing low wages now in hope of getting another wildland from wildland fire fighting job this summer.
 

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