My 1980 FJ40 Build (1 Viewer)

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Here are a few pictures from this weekend. They are nothing special but I like pictures as I'm sure fellow mudders do too.
So I went ahead and ordered Advanced Adapters transfer case mount #716004. As many threads I read of both mounts, 1 being the mount that cups the back of the transfer case and 2 the one that mounts under the transfer case adapter, most preferred #716004 as it is stronger and the other has proven to crack housings in some cases. It does however hang below the transfer case by a couple inches on the passenger side. I dont anticipate this really being that much of a problem with ground clearance.

Ahhh Shiny.




Rubber mount to the adapter between TH350 & the transfer case.










I've not yet welded the mounts in as I ran out of time. That will have to wait for next weekend.
 
I finished hanging the crossmember this weekend. Advanced adapters PN#716004 sits nice. A few reviews noted that a few Offroaders don't prefer this mount as it takes away a few inches of ground clearance. I will probably flip the bolts to prevent snagging them and bending them.



Side Profile




I would like to get rid of this radio, install a new lower dash pad and maybe turn the old radio void into a switch panel or something. Most likely will put a radio in a Tuffbox center console.


Don't worry, I set it there carefully to not scratch the paint. Although it will get scratched on the trail I still want to prevent as much as possible.
 
I'm excited. I'm getting close to finish and after two years I may get to put it on the trail. I think the next big things to focus on is supporting the mount for the rear 3 link and gusset it somehow. I had to remove half of it after moving the transfer case back a few inches. I believe this is noted earlier in this thread. Also Steering is on the next big item list and drivelines. After these are complete I still have small items like brake lines and plumbing in lines for the transmission oil cooler. I'm sure there are other things that I cant think of right now.
Any recommendations or words of wisdom from other builders on things to check or keep an eye on as I attempt to bring this back to life? I dont know how long it has been since it ran last. I bought it two years ago from a friend that had it parked for years planning on fixing it. There are the obvious things like double checking fluids etc... We recently drained the fuel tank of some VERY rancid gasoline so I may need to flush the fuel lines and fuel pump?
 
I can hear the excitement in your typing!!

I would definitely flush the fuel tank and lines and change the fuel filter.

Change the oil and filter and the air filter.

Charge the battery, clean the terminals, clean your grounds (battery NEG-to-frame, frame to body and starter body to frame).

Add a little fuel to the tank. Disconnect the fuel feed line from the carb, point it into a receptacle, crank the engine for 15 seconds and make sure you get about 1/2 cup of fuel in the receptacle.

Hook the line back up.

Try to start the engine... May need to add starter fluid, if the carb hasn't been cleaned or rebuilt lately.

When engine starts, immediately make sure you have good oil pressure.

SMILE!!

If it runs rough, try an Okie rebuild for the carb, to blow the crap out of it.

HTH
 
I found my old Bestop Softop the other weekend. The frame is still in great condition but I'm not too sure about the rest. Its been bundled up like this for years. The clear is colored. Think it can be brought back to life or worth it?
I don't have the hard doors anymore nor any rear doors so I'm not sure how well it will fit. I haven't had this thing on since I bought the 40.
Or would it be worth it to get rid of it. I've seen a few other tops I really like. I believe it is what came factory from Toyota and more or less drapes over the roll bar from the channel in the windshield.

 
This weekend we made some slow random progress. Just started messing with things here and there, trying to keep interest in progress.
Let's see, made the transmission/T-case cover from some 18 gauge sheet metal and installed the shifter boots.
Bolted up the torque converter, dipstick tube, ran ATF cooler lines & filled with ATF. I will be swapping the AutoZone TH350 dipstick tube to a Lokar flexible tube. The current tube is binding up against the firewall.
We finished running the rest of the fuel line. Put a fresh 5 gallons of fuel in and fired it up. I've still got a problem though. It wont stay running. It seems I can't get any more than about a 15-20 second idle out of it. There is still a lot more to go. Here are a few pictures and video of the problems running.











My shop help at his best
 
First I replaced the Throttle Position Sensor, that didn't help. After that I replaced the Idle Air Control Valve.
The old one was a little gummed up. It seems to idle much better now. I've even been able to crank on the throttle and rev it up more than I could before I replaced the IAC. It seems to run much better.
 
Both seats are mounted. I didn't get pictures with the seat belts but I bought a set of 3" Black strap with polished Airplane style buckles. They look and feel good so far.
 
Finally got started on my sag steering. Removed the factory steering equipment. Used an air chisel and grinder to remove the hot rivets off the steering box mount. This opened up alot of space.





Cut the steering shaft back (perhaps a little too far, mistake on my part).


Firewall anchor from AA.


Had to cut off my stinger & front bumper in order to make the steering box fit.
All this cutting really made me appreciate a plasma cutter. I did cut a few areas with a grinder or sawsall until I was able to talk my brother into bringing his plasma over.







I still have to do some cleaning with the grinder to make a better fit.
 
great buildup man!

Looking forward to seeing it roll out
 
Steering box and plate installed this weekend.







One step closer. Now to plumb in hoses and install the steering shaft.
I may have made a mistake when I measured the steering shaft (for cutting) and not taking into consideration the room that the Firewall anchor took up. There is very little room to install U-joint and weld it out. I may have to replace the steering column/shaft. If anyone has any recommendations please share.

 
Got a little further on the Sag steering this weekend.

After fighting with the power steering pump, bracket and pulley many times I felt it would be much easier to work on if i removed the radiator. It was much easier to work on without having to reach over the radiator.



Here is the pump installed.



Pump and pulley.



Steering box with cut & fit hoses.



I am running the hoses under the radiator. I will need to wrap the short section of hoses there to prevent wearing a hole from sitting on the radiator bracket. I also used a lower pressure rated hose for the return. I was given a few feet of 5/16 steel braided hose rated for 2500psi but was not able to use it for the return side since I could not fit it on the return nipple on the pump.







 
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