Motor Oil? (275,000 miles) (1 Viewer)

[pndavis4]

Heres my normal routine. Shop around, usually walmart, 5qt + 1qt Mobil 1 full synthetic, extended performance. Drop truck off at dealer, let them use the Toyota filter, and do their full inspection and top off all fluids.
Drive truck 5000 miles, then repeat. There is a difference in synthetic, and I have actually seen a difference in oil pressure since I've switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic.

 

[SWUtah]

I thought it was something like 8.25 qts of oil. I've only had mine long enough to change it once.

7.2 w/filter. Dealer always overfills mine puts 8 in

 

[Spike555]

8qts is perfect. That puts me a frogs hair over the full mark on the dipstick after sitting all night on flat ground.

 

[Spike555]

Heres my normal routine. Shop around, usually walmart, 5qt + 1qt Mobil 1 full synthetic, extended performance. Drop truck off at dealer, let them use the Toyota filter, and do their full inspection and top off all fluids.
Drive truck 5000 miles, then repeat. There is a difference in synthetic, and I have actually seen a difference in oil pressure since I've switched to Mobil 1 full synthetic.

That sounds like a lot of work for you. If you're going to use the Toyota oil filter why not just use their oil too?

 

[pndavis4]

I heard great things from a friend about the Mobil 1 full synthetic. I was having oil pressure issues, so I decided to try it. I actually saw a noticable difference on the gauge, so I stuck with it.

 

[Spike555]

Theres no denying that Mobil 1 is a good oil.
If you asked the stealer I bet that they carry it as well and you could save yourself a ton of time by letting them do it all.

 

[fblainen11]

If you have an Amazon account look up Pennzoil Synthetic Platinum 5w-30. There's a $2 rebate per quart or $10 per 5 quart container.

That comes out to a minuscule $12 per 5 quarts with free two day shipping. You cannot find a better deal.

Royal Purple did a big study comparing tons of different oils. There's was too two in all the different tests, but Pennzoil was in the top 2 or 3 on every test. All oils were good and better than standards of course, but for the money, you won't find a better oil.

 

[2001LC]

WalMart has had the best deal on M1, 5qt jugs at ~$23.
Mobil has been running some great mail in rebates, $12.

Oil should be check after warm up, let it settle for ~5 min or more after shutting down first. Checking after letting it sit overnight will give a false low reading, do to capillary action. Over filling is never recommended.

 

[Nottajeep]

Mobil 1 5w-30 EP
Change 1x a yr or 15k miles

Mobil 1 EP is that good of an oil.

These engines are good for 7500 miles on cheap dino oil, according to OEM specs.

Nothing easier than a 1/yr oil change

Stick with OEM filters. They are best value for the money.

This equals about $30 per year if DIY.

 

[re_guderian]

@ all the relative rankings of oil and filter brands... There are 22,000+ threads in the 100 series section, and the newest of these rigs is 10 years old, the oldest is 19. There are virtually none with fewer than 100k miles, and the majority I'd say are pushing 200k+. Exactly how many of those threads deal with failures/repairs due to crappy oil, crappy filters, or extremely long oil change intervals?

That's OK, I'll just sit here and keep waiting while y'all search. Let me know if you need another hand to count them on. Or even a second finger...

It's OIL, man. Use it. Change it around some type of interval. Put "a" new filter that you bought at an auto parts store/dealership of some kind on it when you change the oil. Lather, rinse, repeat. This is one area where modern engineering seems to have nailed it (especially when combined with the design of the 2UZ-FE), but we are just incapable of letting go of our obsession with the minutia of marketing-driven ideas and concepts. You could use coconut oil and some old panty hose for a filter and be OK, as long as you change it every 35,000 miles. OK, maybe that's a stretch, but seriously folks, what data is driving this obsession with viscosity, pressure, filtration, and longevity (or lack thereof)? Before you regurgitate some lab study or BITOG thread, or heaven forbid your Blackstone "UOA" with it's litany of no-context-numbers, add this phrase to the end of your answer, "and the real-world, specific implication of that in terms of likelihood of oil-related issues is ___________, especially as it relates to the 2UZ-FE.". I'll wager that no one can fill in the blank, which leads me back to those 22,000 threads just chock full of oil related issues...

 

[TXLX100]

I use 5-20 synthetic in all my vehicles (145k, 160k, 340k). I try to get them in for oil changes every 5k, but it's usually 6-8k. I think its fine to use quality conventional oil or you could go with synthetic if you want to go longer interval.

 

[fblainen11]

Synthetic offers better protection at cold engine temperatures than conventional oil. It isn't just longer intervals.

bobistheoilguy.com

 

[re_guderian]

Synthetic offers better protection at cold engine temperatures than conventional oil. It isn't just longer intervals.

bobistheoilguy.com

Here, let me help...

"Synthetic offers better protection at cold engine temperatures than conventional oil. It isn't just longer intervals - and the real-world, specific implication of that in terms of likelihood of oil-related issues is jack crap, because even at "cold engine temperatures" that the 2UZ-FE is subjected to, even conventional oil provides sufficient lubrication, so even though synthetic oil is quantitatively 'better', the additional protection is of little additional value to the end user as compared to commonly available conventional motor oils."

See what I did there? I made that up, obviously, since "jack crap" isn't a truly scientific outcome, but if it's true (and I suspect it is, otherwise we'd have seen a string of oil-related engine wear/rebuild threads from our 300K mile brethren already) then it provides some much needed CONTEXT to the result of "better" in terms of the comparison you made between conventional and synthetic.

 

[TXLX100]

Here, let me help...

"Synthetic offers better protection at cold engine temperatures than conventional oil. It isn't just longer intervals - and the real-world, specific implication of that in terms of likelihood of oil-related issues is jack crap, because even at "cold engine temperatures" that the 2UZ-FE is subjected to, even conventional oil provides sufficient lubrication, so even though synthetic oil is quantitatively 'better', the additional protection is of little additional value to the end user as compared to commonly available conventional motor oils."

See what I did there? I made that up, obviously, since "jack crap" isn't a truly scientific outcome, but if it's true (and I suspect it is, otherwise we'd have seen a string of oil-related engine wear/rebuild threads from our 300K mile brethren already) then it provides some much needed CONTEXT to the result of "better" in terms of the comparison you made between conventional and synthetic.

I'd tend to agree. It might have "better protection" (hopefully better lubrication), but I suspect the difference isn't significant when measured.

 

[Nottajeep]

don't put in a 5w-20 weight. That's just dumb

 

[fblainen11]

Okay, now that the smartasses have chimed in.....

At the end of the day any oil from a reputable company is going to be fine. However, not one person in here in their right mind would choose conventional oil over synthetic oil if the price were the exact same (unless they are just going to sit here and argue like a stubborn jackass).
For me, I can get a 5 quart of Synthetic for about $12 after a rebate and a Toyota OEM filter all for about $15 bucks.

It's a no brainer.

 

[re_guderian]

don't put in a 5w-20 weight. That's just dumb

Here, let me help you out...

"don't put in a 5w-20 weight. That's just dumb because the real-world, specific implication of that in terms of likelihood of oil-related issues is .00001" extra engine wear after an average of 750,000 miles due to lower viscosity oil usage, based on a tear down of a 2UZ-FE engine, and compared to the recommended 5W-30 weight oil..."

Okay, now that the smartasses have chimed in.....

At the end of the day any oil from a reputable company is going to be fine. However, not one person in here in their right mind would choose conventional oil over synthetic oil if the price were the exact same (unless they are just going to sit here and argue like a stubborn jackass).
For me, I can get a 5 quart of Synthetic for about $12 after a rebate and a Toyota OEM filter all for about $15 bucks.

It's a no brainer.

It's only a no-brainer if you're not dumping perfectly good conventional oil at 3,000 miles, and not dumping perfectly good synthetic oil at 5,000 miles. Unless of course you like throwing money needlessly at your cruiser, or you're OC. These rigs require a lot of money in parts and gas as it is, why throw it away on uneeded things? Again, where are all the conventional oil engine failure threads?

 

[tacoduck]

well, I did my first oil change on the LC today. went with mobil 1 EP and the big mobil filter. truck has 180k miles on her. I'll swap it in 10k miles, which works out to around once a year.
I figure the cool sticker on the jug is worth another 5k miles of extended performance.

 

[marshotel]

So I run Mobil 1 synthetic, and only drive about 2500 miles per year.
Can I go 4 years between oil changes?
or is there a recommended change interval based on time, rather than miles?

 

[2001LC]

well, I did my first oil change on the LC today. went with mobil 1 EP and the big mobil filter. truck has 180k miles on her. I'll swap it in 10k miles, which works out to around once a year.
I figure the cool sticker on the jug is worth another 5k miles of extended performance.

If your engine has been using conventional oil up to this point, it will have a great deal of gunk buildup. The synthetic oil will do a great job of cleaning the gunk out. For this reason you may find the need to change oil sooner the first time. Just watch oil color, as it darkens change it.

Tips: Always replace washer (gasket) of drain plug bolt. Always rub a little oil on rubber seal of filter.

So I run Mobil 1 synthetic, and only drive about 2500 miles per year.
Can I go 4 years between oil changes?
or is there a recommended change interval based on time, rather than miles?

Mobil One is stable up to five years in sealed jug properly stored. Once put into use they recommend one year intervals between changes. Motor oil product FAQs | Mobil™ Motor Oils

Interesting in M1 FAQ they recommend sticking with factory oil change interval: "Oil change intervals can be as short as 3,000 miles or as long as 15,000 miles on some new cars. We recommend that you follow the oil and filter change frequencies shown in your owner's manual, especially during the warranty period. With the high-performance reserves of Mobil 1, you can have the confidence to go the full mileage or time frame recommended by the vehicle manufacturer. Mobil 1 is especially suitable for the latest vehicles with extended drain intervals or vehicles with oil monitoring systems that vary oil drain intervals"

No doubt M1 takes this position for legal reasons. Some here use Black Stone to test and determine interval. I usually go 5 to 6K or one year, but feel if I run over it will be fine..