Holy hell…43 year old bushings (2 Viewers)

[Last Flight Out]

Look good springs to me. Someone enthusiast may want to restore them.

Do people actually look for old factory springs?

 

[Last Flight Out]

All finished and initial torque settings done. Will check after a few weeks. Greased up and double checked everything. All in all, good experience but those pins…they are Satan’s spawn. Never want to do that again. Right now, 3” raise and fairly consistent on all corners…will see where she settles out. The combo of OME and Bilsteins 5100’s is stellar.

 

[Green Bean]

Looks amazing. Great job doing battle with those stubborn old pins.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Looks amazing. Great job doing battle with those stubborn old pins.

Thanks! I think with all jobs like this once you do it a first time, you feel like you could do another one and another one and another one down the road and even shave a few hours off the job.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Random question for anyone who is still watching this thread… when doing your standard 2.5 inch lift on these rigs, would there be anything that would affect the steering wheel centering with this instillation?

My mind may be playing games on me, but it feels like the steering wheel now is turned slightly right in order to go straight down the road at speed, but never really touched anything in the steering line, rag-joint, tire rods etc. Just removed wheels, removed old suspension, installed super cool suspension and just noticed it today. Wheels/tires look straight at eye-ball center.

Also installed new steering dampener where I had to remove old one from steering joint/arm and install new one - but I don’t think that would affect the steering wheel centering?

 

[pb4ugo]

Because you raised the height between the frame and frt axle, you need to lengthen the relay rod. It's the link that goes from the center arm to the passenger tie rod. You're just centering your steering wheel. Your toe should not have changed.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Because you raised the height between the frame and frt axle, you need to lengthen the relay rod. It's the link that goes from the center arm to the passenger tie rod. You're just centering your steering wheel. Your toe should not have changed.

@pb4ugo so this rod/guy? Loosen coupler/clamp here and at passenger side (meaning both ends) and turn rod to right to lengthen or left to shorten (steering wheel will also turn either way depending on direction)

Or are you referring to the drag link rod?

Sorry, just trying to make sure I’m tracking

 

[77mustard40]

The drag link (if stock set up) is in the DS fender well and runs from the steering box pitman arm foward long the frame to the center arm at the front frame cross member. Adjusting the length of that arm allows you to center the steering wheel.

 

[pb4ugo]

Yes, loosen both ends and turn. You might need a pipe wrench or channel locks. I have no idea which way to turn it. Look at the threads. Roll the vehicle back and forth, make sure it was going straight so you see how off the wheel is. After adjusting roll it again and confirm your adjustments.

 

[pb4ugo]

The drag link (if stock set up) is in the DS fender well and runs from the steering box pitman arm foward long the frame to the center arm at the front frame cross member. Adjusting the length of that arm allows you to center the steering wheel.

This is true, but in this case the vehicle has been lifted and the distance between the frame and axle was changed. Imo, the adjustment should be made with the relay rod.

 

[77mustard40]

This is true, but in this case the vehicle has been lifted and the distance between the frame and axle was changed. Imo, the adjustment should be made with the relay rod.

Good point, I'm running 4" skyjackers and made the adjustment to the drag link. I guess the best option would be to adjust both to maximize thread engagement on both rods (relay & draglink)

 

[pb4ugo]

Good point, I'm running 4" skyjackers and made the adjustment to the drag link. I guess the best option would be to adjust both to maximize thread engagement on both rods (relay & draglink)

That, and if the relay is too short, it can make the vehicle turn more one way than the other.

 

[Last Flight Out]

That, and if the relay is too short, it can make the vehicle turn more one way than the other.

My truck is not turning one way from what I can tell. It’s the steering wheel center that is off. That to me speaks to drag link - which is what I was thinking of from the beginning.

 

[pb4ugo]

Looking at your pic it appears totally shortened. There are no thread showing. The rods probably haven't been turned in decades. Some penetrant or whatever force to loosen things up. There's some folks that just remove the wheel and recenter it. I'm not one of them.

 

[WildernessRimFab]

Do people actually look for old factory springs?

Supposedly yes.
Some like the old factory springs for springover lifts. The old factory springs are mucho flexy when installed on top of the axle.
I recall hearing this a while back when I installed 2.5 Heavy OME springs and I chucked the old ones in the back of my shed where they still sit.

 

[Last Flight Out]

For the life of me, I cannot get this side to budge… The other side turns freely on the end of the tie rod, but this one with many hours of soaking cannot seem to budge off the drag link. May have to resort to removing steering wheel to compensate for the off center at 2pm mark.

 

[Last Flight Out]

Finally, got that bastard…cheater bar did the trick. And TOP quality penetrating oil.