Grinding in front axle (1 Viewer)

[s13koop]

Lately I've been noticing a rotational grinding noise up front. Mainly driver side(RHD)
Any slight turn in the road left or right and its there.
Full front axle rebuild 2 months ago from birfs, to inner axles, and even new spindles.
Removed front driveshaft and outer drive flanges and noise is still there.
Removed dr side spindle and bearings and noticed these 2 spots
Likely culprit?

 

[mudgudgeon]

Likely culprit is not enough preload on the bearings.
Not enough torque on the bearing/spindle lock nuts.

If you haven't taken apart the other side, jack up the wheel and check for play in the bearings by rocking the tire to/ away from you at 6 & 12 o'clock.

Loose bearings can grind/ vibrate, can cause vague steering, can be felt as a shudder through the brake pedal with light braking.

Loose bearings can chatter and fret on the spindle and cause the brinneling you are seeing on your parts.

 

[s13koop]

Likely culprit is not enough preload on the bearings.
Not enough torque on the bearing/spindle lock nuts.

If you haven't taken apart the other side, jack up the wheel and check for play in the bearings by rocking the tire to/ away from you at 6 & 12 o'clock.

Loose bearings can grind/ vibrate, can cause vague steering, can be felt as a shudder through the brake pedal with light braking.

Loose bearings can chatter and fret on the spindle and cause the brinneling you are seeing on your parts.

Forgot to add I jacked up both sides and gave em a push and pull. Felt pretty solid.
When driving everything felt fine, just started to notice the noise when turning this past week. Maybe I just caught it early enough.
Well damn, I used a preload tool when going back together with it.
I'll replace bearing and maybe aim a little higher on the preload
Thanks man

 

[baldilocks]

This is one procedure where many of us have departed from the FSM and the fish scale. Torquing to 25lbft on the preload nut and then whatever the manual says for the lock nut. Worn spindles won’t hold a consistent preload so inspecting those closely is a good idea.

 

[s13koop]

This is one procedure where many of us have departed from the FSM and the fish scale. Torquing to 25lbft on the preload nut and then whatever the manual says for the lock nut. Worn spindles won’t hold a constant preload so inspecting those closely is a good idea.

I actually just read that while searching for this issue. Seems like 25/30ft/lb on the inner nut, then 47ft/lb on the outer nut

 

[mudgudgeon]

I actually just read that while searching for this issue. Seems like 25/30ft/lb on the inner nut, then 47ft/lb on the outer nut

Been doing this for around 10 years now.
Still check them after 1-2k miles.

 

[Broski]

I have been doing 30 on the inner and 45 on the lock nut. Has worked well even with 39s
The inner part of the bearing is not supposed to be spinning on the spindle.

 

[s13koop]

Well, no dice.
Grind still there, sometimes even a bump makes it more noticeable.
Checked shocks/springs/sway bar, nothing loose.

 

[thatcabledude]

What did your spindle bushings look like?

 

[s13koop]

Looked good, no damage.
Replaced/upgraded both sides to the needle bearing style when I did the knuckle rebuild
About to drain this diff oil again and see what I see

 

[Broski]

I just have to ask, you are greasing the inside of the spindle at the needle bearings, right

 

[Broski]

If you have a center DL button, I would remove the front drive shaft, lock the center Diff and drive it.
With a full-time four-wheel-drive, it’s really hard to tell were the sound is coming from.
This can help isolated it.

 

[s13koop]

I just have to ask, you are greasing the inside of the spindle at the needle bearings, right

Oh yea, definitely read where people weren't so I made sure I did.
Front drive shaft is still pulled. Ill give it another drive around and see how she goes.
Already drained front diff and transfer case looking for metal. Looked good.

 

[s13koop]

Well guys I'm still stumped.
I have completely eliminated the front drive. Removed birfs, axles, and even the front differential.
As soon as I hit reverse out of the shop and drove forward I can hear this rotational grind.
I've checked transfer case oil, drained, and refilled with new.
I haven't checked rear diff oil.
Any other ideas? or should I run until its a more obvious problem.

 

[duece71]

Well guys I'm still stumped.
I have completely eliminated the front drive. Removed birfs, axles, and even the front differential.
As soon as I hit reverse out of the shop and drove forward I can hear this rotational grind.
I've checked transfer case oil, drained, and refilled with new.
I haven't checked rear diff oil.
Any other ideas? or should I run until its a more obvious problem.

Hi Cody, Roof Rack Glen here. Is it only in reverse or forward motion as well? Any noise during start up? Definitely coming from up front? What about steering, any noise when turning or just moving straight?

 

[s13koop]

Hey there man,
No noise on start up and only starts when I put it in gear/rolling.
Will do it in Hi range or Lo range.. Doesn't really do it while driving straight but definitely becomes noticeable while slightly turn left or right, mostly right.
Im about to put front back together and possibly focus on rear and remove driveshaft.

 

[mudgudgeon]

Maybe check rear wheel bearings.

Check hand brake isn't dragging, and releases fully each time

Brakes generally, check they aren't dragging

Check dust shields on all pinions aren't bent or dented and rubbing. Both T- Case + FR & RR diff.

 

[s13koop]

Dropped rear oil and checked mag plug.
Deff some metal shavings. I've seen worse but the front had none of this.
I may pop in a spare diff I have and see what it yields. Has a Spartan locker so it may add to my noise lol

 

[Squash]

I would put her on four jack stands and put her in gear, then walk around listening.
Next remove the tires and repeat.
Sometimes this becomes a rabbit hole...
Make sure you check the backing plates for a stone wedged between the plate and rotor.
Check that the bolts holding your calipers are tight and not backed out.
Last would be one driveshaft at a time.
NOTE: If you are going to raise the rpm's while in gear, sit in the seat and make sure the drive train is stopped before selecting Park.
I always do this before a long trip, with truck in gear idling I watch the tires, hold one at a time to ensure that there are no sticking calipers or other funk. Oh, and listen!
Many times it sounds or feels like one side is the problem when in fact it somehow is the other.