Got stranded at Wally World (1 Viewer)

[WhompinFJ]

Went to Walmart to grab a new gopro charging cord and when I came back out my cruiser was dead! Luckily I live close by but this isn't the first time the battery has died on me, I will go out to my car and try to start it but it's usually dead. My battery has been checked by Oreillys and its all good. Any things I could check? My alarm is off, all the interior lights are off, radio is off unless driving but I always remember to turn it off, no lights on, etc. I've checked everything basically that I can without getting too indepth. I bought a battery jump start and I keep it charged up in my car now. Not cool that I HAVE to do that

 

[cruisermatt]

Some thing is drawing voltage that you aren't aware of.

I've checked everything basically that I can without getting too indepth.

I guess it's time to go indepth!

 

[WhompinFJ]

I figured as much, what do I need to look for? And how will I be able to see the draw?

 

[Output Shaft]

Most of the suggestions provided by members have already been posted on similar threads. Your problem has happened to others too. Search MUD. There was one thread that just recently went into DEEEEEP troubleshooting, spearheaded by none other than the one and only @Slow Left.

 

[mongoose2231]

I think pulling the fuses for the systems one by one and checking for amp draw at the fuse terminal will isolate the problem. I had a similar issue that resolved itself after I removed all the electrical add ons by po. Problem solved.

 

[WhompinFJ]

So I just start pulling fuses and touching the sockets with the prongs on my meter? How do I do it?

 

[Output Shaft]

First disconnect the ground wire (or positive wire) from the battery.

1. Set your digital meter to measure mA.
2. Place the leads of the meter in series with the battery cable and where it was connected.
3. Note if there is any current flowing.
4. If so, while the meter is still connected, start pulling fuses one at a time in the fuse box and note each time if the current draw reduces.
5. If you find the offending fuse circuit, examine the things and wires that connect to it.

A common parasitic draw suspect is the rear interior cargo light switch and sometimes the dome light switch.

 

[WhompinFJ]

Thank you so much output! That is an awesome tutorial. I searched parasitic draw but everyone's tutorial was way complicated. Yours makes it easy!

 

[mongoose2231]

Yes, what he said. I also used his method.

 

[WhompinFJ]

This is where I started

 

[WhompinFJ]

Pulled the dome light

 

[WhompinFJ]

Pulled the charge fuse

 

[WhompinFJ]

Pulled the gauge fuse

 

[WhompinFJ]

I think I need a new gauge, with the 3 fuses out the readings went to this

 

[WhompinFJ]

Plugged all the fuses back in and it hovered at about .1 to zero. I am completely lost

 

[land crusher]

You've confirmed that the alternator is functioning, right?

 

[WhompinFJ]

No but I drove it 14 hours from Cali to Utah with the radio going, ac, and windshield wipers for part of it. That was 2 months ago and the issues were going on before that, but if you could tell me how to check I'll go check it right now ?

 

[land crusher]

14 hour drive would definitely kill the battery if the alt wasn't charging, but alternator problems can be intermittent. Simplest thing is to measure the voltage coming off the alternator (while the truck is running, obviously). Should be 13.8 volts give or take. If not, you've got a problem, but you may also want to have it tested under load (at a parts store or alt/battery shop). Use your meter to measure voltage between the output on the alt and the neg post on the battery or body ground connection.

Ultimately sounds more like a parasitic drain issue, but you always have to check the basics first.

 

[WhompinFJ]

Ok. Sun just went down so I'll check it out in the morning!

 

[Slow Left]

In the pictures you posted above, your multimeter is set to measure Capacitance....and as OS points out, you need to have it set to measure (Direct Current) Amperes...so you'll have to rerun the tests with the multimeter set to one of the DCA settings.

Since you might expect to see a 50 mA (milli Ampere) parasitic draw, you might set the multimeter to the 200m DCA setting and see if that is in range.

Remember, milli is 1x10^-3 or 0.001 Ampere
micro (the thing that looks like a u with a tail on it) is 1x10^-6 or 0.000001 Ampere

And just to confirm, you have removed the neg battery cable and connected one terminal of the multimeter to the neg battery post and the other terminal to the now detatched neg battery cable terminal....i.e. the multimeter is connected 'in series' between the neg battery cable and neg battery post?
When taking current (Ampere) measurements, it is important not to let either of the two connections accidentally touch ground. In this case, with the engine off (so theoretically there should be no current flowing through the circuit...except for this parasitic draw), it shouldn't be too much of a safety issue, but you must be very respectful and train yourself properly when doing current measurements. It might help if you had someone on site who is familiar with this type of troubleshooting, that way you get to learn first hand from their wisdom...