Gear noise after locker install (1 Viewer)

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:censor: Hard to believe this all started as a result of a few to many shots of grease in the drive shaft. I have so much time and money invested in this diff already, I know I won't be happy listening to it whine at me. I am sure it would be a contemptuous tone ......I think I need to spend the money and replace the gears.
 
gears

That gearset is worn irregularly. You'll never get a great pattern on the drive side. If you run it, you need to go off of the coast side pattern as this will have less wear. It would run fine like this, but will likely be noisy. This is typical, once a gear is setup incorrectly and run, the damage is usually done. It would be best to replace it. We have several good used oe sets in stock.
 
Hi All:


Can you pursue legal action against the shop that did the original work for redress?

Why is every American's first response to pursue legal action? I just don't get it... In Canada, and most of the rest of the World, this is not how business gets done or grows and develops. I think it's better to just pick up the phone and call the people who are responsible and have a chat. In most cases, a simple talk will sort things out as long as the parties involved are reasonable.

A set of gears is not that expensive, and there is a good possibility that the gears were not evenly worn in the first place, and that some additional use may have caused some more bad wear to develop.


Just my opinion.

~John
 
No, I will not be suing anybody over this, I will just be taking my business elsewhere.......

New Nitro ring and pinion have been ordered through JT's diff parts and accessories.
 
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[...] I will just be taking my business elsewhere.......

New Nitro ring and pinion have been ordered through JT's diff parts and accessories.

And that's how business grows and develops. I'm pleased to hear that you've found some people you can work with.

Judging by what I've heard about Zuk, you'll be getting a nice set up and will have excellent results.

~John
 
And that's how business grows and develops. I'm pleased to hear that you've found some people you can work with.

Judging by what I've heard about Zuk, you'll be getting a nice set up and will have excellent results.

~John

I'm looking forward to setting up the Nitros. :cheers:
 
Hi All:


Well, according to these earlier posts from BJ71 . . . . .

Ok, I spoke to the shop owner this morning as well as sent him pictures of the gear pattern. He is as unimpressed as I am. He was going to speak with his installer and straighten things out. He promised that if I returned the diff to him on his dime for shipping, he would personally make sure it was done correctly before leaving the shop. I cnat ask for any more

So I agreed to give him another chance to make things right before sending it elsewhere. This will keep my warranty in tact and save me more out of pocket expense on shipping and labour.

Keeping my fingers crossed and I will post up the results when I get it back.


and

No, after three attempts things don't look any better. The pattern is not any better and now their is virtually no back lash at all. I shipped it to Zuk at Toyota Gear Installs for a proper set up.

. . . . . . it appears that BJ71 tried to let the original shop fix the problem, to no avail.

IMO a customer should not have to go back and forth multiple times with a vender to get the purchased item correct, especially since BJ71 is also having to take his truck off the road, and pull-apart the axle again due to a faulty install.

My US$00.02! ;)

Regards,

Alan




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Why is every American's first response to pursue legal action? I just don't get it... In Canada, and most of the rest of the World, this is not how business gets done or grows and develops. I think it's better to just pick up the phone and call the people who are responsible and have a chat. In most cases, a simple talk will sort things out as long as the parties involved are reasonable.

A set of gears is not that expensive, and there is a good possibility that the gears were not evenly worn in the first place, and that some additional use may have caused some more bad wear to develop.


Just my opinion.

~John
 
Hi All:

[...]

. . . . . . it appears that BJ71 tried to let the original shop fix the problem, to no avail.

IMO a customer should not have to go back and forth multiple times with a vender to get the purchased item correct, especially since BJ71 is also having to take his truck off the road, and pull-apart the axle again due to a faulty install.

My US$00.02! ;)


And how does that make suing someone an effective way of dealing with a customer service / lack of technical skill issue (on the part of the technician/business) ?

The United States of America is the only country that I can think of where it is commonplace to wave the Litigation card instead of simply talking to the concerned parties about coming to some form of solution that is mutually agreeable.

Litigation is expensive, slow, ineffective, and regressive.

In many cases, litigation in the USA is used in place of accepting responsibility for one's own (stupid) actions [but this is a different topic].

BJ71 is located in Canada and, as a Canadian, he probably appreciates the fact that suing someone (or a business) is a poor way of dealing with the situation. It also does not often lead to a solution to the original problem.

The other way of looking at it is, was there adequate "homework" done on selecting the person/business who performed the original installation? Also, if the installer was having problems getting a good pattern from the gears, or that there was a problem with the flange, why was BJ71 not notified before this escalated?

I am sure that BJ71 is going to be happy with Zuk's work. There is no better assurance that work is going to be done correctly than to have the whole process posted up and totally public (via the Internet).

I am also quite sure that BJ71 has spoken to, or will be speaking to, the affected parties who did the original work to come to a mutually agreeable solution.


~John
 
Just received from JTs Parts & Accessories, Justdifferentials.com
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I know the bearings only have about 1000 miles AT MOST BUT REPLACING THE OUTER PINION BEARING IS ALWAYS A GOOD IDEA....DAMN cAP LOCK KEY.
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Nitro Gear...Preston opted for the 456 lower ratio this time around.
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Ok...The outer pinion race was not as tight a fit as I like to see so I cleaned the surfaces and applied 635 retainer compound. I'll let it set up overnight and take a pattern check Wednesday.
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Ring gear bolts were tight and the electric impact did not strain at all taking them off.
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It was on there tight...tap tap about 100 times and off it came.
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Less than 1000 miles and the o-ring had left a trace trail...so I used some 800 grit with wd40 and smoothed the surface perfectly.
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Both surfaces were files...nothing too unusual found.
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Bolts were cleaned. Red loctite and 95 ft/lb
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I had 072 on the pinion and that won't do...press the pinion out...
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I choose what I hope is the perfect depth shim for Nitro....057.
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The monster bearing separator can be used to also press the bearing back on. And some paint will be shown tomorrow.
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depth is perfect

the pinion end of things was assembled without the collar and the nut was tightened until I measured about 10~12 in/lb.
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The case is installed and the carrier bearing pre-load is firmed up while guiding the backlash to .007"
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drive side 057....perfect. Nice position from toe to heel....and also the face to the root. This is why I like these Nitros. :)
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coast 057 nice.
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the drive side as reverse painted by the pinion... nice
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coast by reverse paint....nice. Now to take it apart, install the solid collar and assemble with new ARB o-rings. :)
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I had to take the pinion out 4 or 5 times to get the PPL exact like I wanted and using mics is the kind of accuracy I need to do this.
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Grease on the spring and rtv on the steel edges...
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Preston's dual drilled flange can now be installed
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I measured 10 inch/pounds of PPL
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Still has the same unavoidable gap around the dust ring and that is of no concern.
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The arb wheel adjuster was chingered up some so I located a new wheel. This is important so that the seal assembly sits even on the journal.
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caps are tightened to 85 ft/lb
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I tried the ARB tool to fully tighten the wheels...but I think I prefer this homemade tool.
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I verified with a torque wrench that there was 150 ft/lb on the wheels....which translates into 15 in/lb of carrier bearing drag.
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Final check ...drive
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coast
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reverse paint drive
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reverse paint coast
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The ring is documented with the related specs...
. I still have to hook up the seal assembly with new 0-rings and pressure test. Then I will send it out to Preston :) Nobody is responding to these recent posts of mine....hmmm, guess I'm not posting enough pics....
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thanks your explanation of noise/whine on acceleration explained why my truck was noisy for 2 years after a diff rebuild. I busted it new years EVE pics later. Now trying to source a new 8/39 REAR DIFF :(

hope your new diff lasts also.
 
Thanks guys :cheers:

I will have a few more pics to post and the 3rd will be ready to ship back to Preston in Canada. These pics are all on Photobucket.com and I know it's common for such pictures to disappear in a few months but that's not the case with me....they should be there for years...I don't delete pics out of the account for "house cleaning".
ZUK


ps--- cicak- I'd like to rebuild that 488...but the postage might be kinda high. oh well.
 
Just as we expected a great gear install. Thanks for helping so many people and keep up the good work.
Yesterdays project that got towed in a 2001 f-350 cube van.
Some one has been in the Dana 70 before me and I think they forgot to use loc-tight on the ring bolts? Every ring gear bolt sheered off. The ring was just floating on the carrier. This cube van has a gutter bending machine and several rolls of aluminum in the back and is grossly over weighted all the time. All the new parts are on the way. This should be fun:D

Take care Zuk
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I still have to hook up the seal assembly with new 0-rings and pressure test. Then I will send it out to Preston :) Nobody is responding to these recent posts of mine....hmmm, guess I'm not posting enough pics....

I'm speachless! I wish I had the skills to do that! :popcorn:
 
ok...wrapping it up...actually, I've already sent it out to Preston as of this typing.
Extra caution is used when wiggling the seal assembly in place
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...then the retaining clip can be snapped in place
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Lock tabs are secured....the tab must not contact the inards of the seal assembly. It might push on it and cause a leak.
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My humble ARB leak tester...
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I normally don't leave it with 95 psi for 6 hours but I did and not a pound was lost. Good.
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A coat of paint adhesion promoter follower by Krylon gloss black
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"burrito wrap" the 3rd...
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Ready to ship back to Preston :) He should see it next Friday.
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Excuse my absence on this thread as I have been out of town working.

Thanks Zuk for putting up all the pictures and doing such a great job setting up and documenting this diff rebuild. I can't wait to get it home and installed. I will be sure to give my final review after the test drive :steer:
 
OK, I went to the border today and picked up the diff that Zuk rebuilt (left) and a "matching" brand new complete 3rd member with ARB locker and 4.56 gears for the front (right), purchased from JT's Diffs.

After unpacking them both and getting them on the bench I was immediately struck by how different the two lockers are. After talking to several people I contacted Nills at ARB tech department.

The new diff (right) from JT's contains an ARB-RD142 which is the correct unit and the latest and greatest upgraded version for the front toyota 9.5" application and/or the rear Full Floater toyota 9.5" application, as in my Landcruiser.

The old diff (left) that I have been having all of the problems with contains an ARB-RD124 locker. This unit is for the semi floating rear diff application. I have a full floating rear. In the words of Nills (ARB tech) the RD-124 will work in the front or rear full floater diff but I should have never been sold it to began with. The semi floater design uses only 3 instead of 4 spider gears, in order to accommodate the installation of the c-clips on the semi floater axles. Over all the RD-124 is not as strong as the RD-142 and the RD-124 is an old design that will be replaced in the next month or so by the new upgraded version RD-153.

So in other words, just to add insult to injury, not only did this shop screw up the diff rebuild and ARB installation 3 times and destroy my ring and pinion. They also sold me the wrong locker for my application. Although it will work it is an inferior design, weaker and less desirable. :mad:
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