Does anyone have any pics of their front drive shaft installed phase out? I'm going to reinstall mine and can't remember how it should be installed.
Thank you.
Thank you.
Front drive shaft phase out (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter enterconnect
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If you separated it and don't have it marked, get it balanced after you put it together.
As far as which way it 'should' be, Toyota does it one way on stock trucks, some people choose to reverse it on lifted trucks because the driveshaft is no longer in a 'broken back' config. I never can remember whether Toyota does it in-phase or out.
As far as which way it 'should' be, Toyota does it one way on stock trucks, some people choose to reverse it on lifted trucks because the driveshaft is no longer in a 'broken back' config. I never can remember whether Toyota does it in-phase or out.
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- #3
I just had the shaft rebalanced and joints replaced. The shop removed the DS so I didn't get a chance to mark it.
Does this help? What is the "broken back configuration"?
Phase should be set before balance. How it is mounted to the truck is not going to change the phase.
IH8MUD.com - View Single Post - In phase or out of phase?
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- #6
Ok. Thank you.
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- #7
This does help. Thanks.
Usually the two ends of the driveshaft are supposed to be parallel, with equal angles at the joints. In a broken back config, the ends are not parallel, but do have equal angles. If the middle of the shaft were horizontal, the ends would both turn down. That's the way the 80 front driveshaft is at stock height. It's unusual, and is the only reason I can think of that they would have put the driveshaft u-joints out of phase.
Interesting, and why would people change it for a lifted truck? I recently installed Js and I'm getting a slight vibe at high speed deceleration, I'm wondering if changing the phase might help?
When you lift the truck the front driveshaft is no longer in the same config. The angles become unmatched. That's why many people go with a double-cardan front driveshaft on lifts at or above 3", there is very little angle at the axle end, and the t-case end angle is increased.
Yeah I figured I will probably have to get a dc driveshaft, especially after I put in the front spacers and castor plates. The problem is trying to source one in Hawaii
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- #12
If I understand this correctly, out of phase is how the drive shaft is put together, not how it's bolted on the truck?
If you refer to the picture above:
The front is out of phase, meaning that if you were to look at the yokes on the shaft, they are turned 90 degrees from the same plane, or out of pase.
The rear shaft is in phase, meaning that the yokes are in the same plane, or in phase.
This has absolutly nothing to do with how they are mounted on the truck. The only thing that determines the phase in/out is the drive shaft itself, not the u-joints or the way anything is mounted on the truck.
Simply put, imagine removing both u-joints and pulling the slip yoke apart. Then putting them(2 sides of the shaft) back together. If you were to align the yokes, thats in phase. If you were to then clock it 90 degrees, that's phase out.
Shane
The front is out of phase, meaning that if you were to look at the yokes on the shaft, they are turned 90 degrees from the same plane, or out of pase.
The rear shaft is in phase, meaning that the yokes are in the same plane, or in phase.
This has absolutly nothing to do with how they are mounted on the truck. The only thing that determines the phase in/out is the drive shaft itself, not the u-joints or the way anything is mounted on the truck.
Simply put, imagine removing both u-joints and pulling the slip yoke apart. Then putting them(2 sides of the shaft) back together. If you were to align the yokes, thats in phase. If you were to then clock it 90 degrees, that's phase out.
Shane
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- #14
Well put. Thank you.
there has to be a driveline shop on the big island. lock the center diff with your method of choice ( cdl or pull the fuse) and remove the shaft. Give the shop a flange to flange measurement, then ask them to change your shaft to a cv style. it will probably run you <$200 for the work, or if you choose to have a completely new one built, it will most likely run $400 or so.
Nah its like the third world here, I'd have to send it to Oahu. I'll probably keep mine as a trail spare and get one from slee or FOR
