fj80 and lx450 ps pump rebuild

Discussion in 'OR/CA- Jefferson State Cruisers' started by gnob, Mar 18, 2011.

  1. gnob

    gnob

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    decided to do a little write up for the 1FZ-FE PS pump since i didnt see one in FAQ.

    this follows the FSM but i try to add better detail and explanations. this particular pump came from a '96 LX450

    first thing is to remove the pump from the car http://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/40209-1fz-power-steering-pump-replacement.html


    next go to a bench and wipe down if necessary just to get extra crud off.

    first thing is to check rotational preload. this tells you if you have a dragging bearing or vanes in the pump spec is 2.4 in-lbs or less. my pump was in spec.


    second is to remove the suction port, uses a 12mm socket or wrench.


    third is to remove the pulley, use a 12pt 17mm socket and my 3/8 impact.
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    Last edited: Mar 19, 2011
  2. gnob

    gnob

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    since the throat on my press was too narrow i had to use the clamshell set with its puller to remove the gear.


    remove the woodruff key from the shaft. i used some very minor persuasion with a small chisel and hammer.


    next remove the rear snap ring. i found that digging it out with a pick worked way better than fighting two screwdrivers. in reality its kind of a bitch no matter what.
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  3. gnob

    gnob

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    remove the high pressure port, flow valve and spring. note orientation for reassembly. 24mm socket

    last pic shows the rear snap ring, notice the taper on one end so you can grab it with a pick
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    Last edited: Mar 19, 2011
  4. gnob

    gnob

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    once the rear snap rings comes out. remove the rear cover. the FSM recommends tapping on a table to get it to fall out. there is an o-ring on the cover so it wont fall off.

    under the lid is a spring washer, note orientation.

    under the spring is the rear plate. i had to tap on the desk to get the plate and rotor/vane assembly to fall out.
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  5. gnob

    gnob

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    after the rotor/vane assembly comes out you have to remove shaft. start by removing the snap ring on the front of the pump.

    next tap out the shaft from the backside with a brass drift.


    once the shaft is out, you can remove the front plate. i had to use a small slide hammer set that i use for doing pilot bearings.
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  6. gnob

    gnob

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    next you need to remove the shaft seal. its removed from the back with a driver of some sort. you could probably use the blind hole puller here too.


    also shown is the part number for the reseal kit. ran about 65$ through the dealer.
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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  7. retrofive

    retrofive SILVER Star

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    Nice job as all ways gnob! sweet!
     
  8. gnob

    gnob

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    so at this point the pump is totally disassembled. take a few minutes to clean it all up with solvent or brake cleaner. take a break for a frosty beverage if need be.

    so the rebuild starts with installing the new front seal. this is a double lip seal but still needs to be installed the right way.

    use a socket to install the seal. the seal needs to be at the bottom of the pocket, notice the reveal above the seal to the front of the pump. according to FSM it should be 3.4mm below the lip.
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  9. gnob

    gnob

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    i swapped a new shaft bearing while it was out. the customer said it had been making some noise so cheap insurance. 10$ bearing #6203V

    place in housing as such. press bearing and shaft home. note the bearing below the snap ring groove.
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  10. gnob

    gnob

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    reinstall front snap ring.

    turn pump over. notice the hole. need to install long shaft into the hole to resart assembly.
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  11. gnob

    gnob

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    so this shows the long pin installed into the housing.


    next pic is of the o-rings supplied with the kit. the three large o-rings are the same as the ID of the pump and get installed onto the plates and rear cover.

    the front plate uses two o-rings. one of the large and the largest of the smaller three.
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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011

  12. gnob

    gnob

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    at this point, the front plate can be installed over the long pin.

    notice the polishing of material for orientation upon assembly. install rotor.

    when installing the rotor and vanes. its easier to install the rotor to the assembly and then install the vanes one by one. the rounded edge of the vane goes to the outside.
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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  13. gnob

    gnob

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    next the rear plate can be installed. notice the "K" and "O" for orientation.

    be careful as to not damage the o-rings when installing the plates and rear cover.

    note orientation of spring washer
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  14. gnob

    gnob

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    now you can install the rear cover with the new snap ring provided. again take care to not damage the o-ring upon install.

    after the rear plate is installed you can reinstall the spring, valve and pressure port.
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  15. gnob

    gnob

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    reinstall woodruff key.

    reinstall pulley

    replace o-ring with smallest in kit. reinstall suction port
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  16. gnob

    gnob

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    so i missed these.

    the kit comes with 6 o-rings and 3 snap rings.

    the 3 large rings are for the plates as explained.

    the smaller o-rings are as follows.

    the largest goes to the inside of the front side plate.

    the medium goes on the pressure port union

    the smallest goes on the suction port

    the snap rings are from left to right: rear cover, front bearing, shaft bearing.
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    Last edited: Mar 18, 2011
  17. gnob

    gnob

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    finished PS pump ready to install

    also the o-ring that seals the pump to the timing cover. it doesnt come with the rebuild kit.
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  18. Kief

    Kief

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    I used to think Toyota was good about selling you all the junk you need but I now know they don't..

    Nice write up Gnob.. I have to do this some day soon I believe..
     
  19. TOY350

    TOY350 #1 Super Guy SILVER Star

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    Great write up indeed. Thanks.
     
  20. retrofive

    retrofive SILVER Star

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    Romer added the to 80 faq :cheers:
     

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