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Featured 100 - spressomon (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter spressomon
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SilentFab!!
Awesome Dan. Really keen work.
Nice shirt too.
Awesome Dan. Really keen work.
Nice shirt too.
- Thread starter
- #523
Bradley Pitts aka Wardaddy!!!
- Thread starter
- #525
Ok, so I'm still into terrestrial/FM radio and since installing the TJM snorkel a few years ago, between snapping off a few antennas on the passenger side fender and not being pleased with the performance of any of the antennas I've tried, I decided to follow Shane's aka AATLAS1X (thanks Shane!) idea and move the OEM motorized antenna to the driver's side.
Too late to turn back now
Also thanks to hoser for finding Shane's original post about same here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/relocating-the-power-antenna-to-the-drivers-fender.596712/
Too late to turn back now
Also thanks to hoser for finding Shane's original post about same here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/relocating-the-power-antenna-to-the-drivers-fender.596712/
Ok, so I'm still into terrestrial/FM radio and since installing the TJM snorkel a few years ago, between snapping off a few antennas on the passenger side fender and not being pleased with the performance of any of the antennas I've tried, I decided to follow Shane's aka AATLAS1X (thanks Shane!) idea and move the OEM motorized antenna to the driver's side.
Too late to turn back now
Also thanks to hoser for finding Shane's original post about same here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/relocating-the-power-antenna-to-the-drivers-fender.596712/
Nice start. I've lost a couple antennas to the trees in our neighborhood. The other driver of my 100 has some compulsion about running the antenna full up. Next one that breaks, I'm putting in a fixed or just not fixing it.
- Thread starter
- #527
While I wait for 18 gauge butt connectors for my antenna project I decided to finally take on the little project of worn spherical bearings in my Radflo rear shocks. Even the comparatively large #12 spherical bearing mounts I had Glenn custom fab mounts for on these shocks wear out. But going from 2X per year on my former Fox shock #8 spherical bearings to once every 3-1/2 years I can see having Glenn do his custom work with the #12's was money-on.
For those running spherical bearing mounts you already know the lower bearings wear about 2X faster than the uppers and this has born itself out with my former rear Fox shock's #8 bearings as well as my current Radflo #12's. But while they're out I'm renewing both upper and lowers...just because
While I have the Radflo shocks on the bench, and waiting for the spherical bearings, I plan to document the rebuilding of these shocks. Recently LandcruiserPhil inquired about the overhaul process specific to Radflo shocks...which is nearly identical to overhauling Fox shocks...but will try to help those that have not been down this path yet.
The purpose for the tear down, in addition to pressing in new spherical bearings, is to renew the shock oil; otherwise the shocks are performing to expectation and without issue. FWIW this is the 2nd time in 3-1/2 years for new shock oil. But as I move about this little project I'll post up photos and tutorial...stay tuned.
For those running spherical bearing mounts you already know the lower bearings wear about 2X faster than the uppers and this has born itself out with my former rear Fox shock's #8 bearings as well as my current Radflo #12's. But while they're out I'm renewing both upper and lowers...just because
While I have the Radflo shocks on the bench, and waiting for the spherical bearings, I plan to document the rebuilding of these shocks. Recently LandcruiserPhil inquired about the overhaul process specific to Radflo shocks...which is nearly identical to overhauling Fox shocks...but will try to help those that have not been down this path yet.
The purpose for the tear down, in addition to pressing in new spherical bearings, is to renew the shock oil; otherwise the shocks are performing to expectation and without issue. FWIW this is the 2nd time in 3-1/2 years for new shock oil. But as I move about this little project I'll post up photos and tutorial...stay tuned.
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- Thread starter
- #528
Here we go...monotube overhaul class 101:
WARNING: You are about to overhaul what effectively is a pressurized hydraulic cylinder. If you do not get the shock completely and effectively de-pressurized before you attempt to disassemble, the main shock body as well as remote canister body, you can be seriously injured or maimed! So consider yourself warned...and me released of any liability
The first and most important thing you need to do before disassembly: Let the nitrogen out of the shock's remote canister and then the main shock body. Use a small screw driver or the the Schrader valve tool to fully release the nitrogen pressure. Then, again using the Schrader valve tool, remove the Schrader valve core and set aside. You have just released the nitrogen pressure from the outside portion of the remote canister. However the main shock body is still somewhat pressurized with nitrogen and will need to be released safely. To do this you may need to loosen the hose fitting either on the main shock body side or the remote side. Do this slowly to allow safe release of the nitrogen. When you do this shock oil will also be released so have plenty of rags on hand.
Once you get both the main shock body and the remote canister de-pressurized you can then, and only then, move on to complete disassembly of the shock and remote canister.
Photo 1: The minimum tools you'll need to overhaul a Fox or Radflo shock (in addition to the seal/wear band rings, shock oil, etc.). These may be the same for King and other mono-tube style shocks but since I have not personally overhauled them I can't say for sure. The "T" shaped tool is a home brew with 1/4-20tpi threaded end (made from a plain steel bolt, welded to the "T" rod...) you will need to remove the floating piston from the remote canister. You can do the job without this tool but its much easier with it.
Additionally a source of compressed air with a rubber tipped blow gun is another near must-have for this job especially if you are overhauling a shock that has some rust/corrosion...very typical. And a bucket or used oil container for the old shock oil, brake cleaner and/or a parts cleaner too.
You will need some way to hold the shock and canister bodies. I use an old Black & Decker Benchmate along with aluminum vise jaws I fabricated from 1/2" thick aluminum plate. The aluminum jaws insure you don't inadvertently damage the shock/remote bodies when using a vise. If you have an extra pair or three of hands around then maybe you can get by without the special vise jaws...judge yourself accordingly.
Photo 2: Schrader valve in the remote canister.
Photo 3: Removing the Schrader valve core to de-pressurize the remote canister.
Photo 4: 3/32" hex key aka "Allen" wrench to remove set-screw within the main shock body upper cap. This cap, on the Radflo, keeps the main seal cap from moving up the main shock body. This threaded cap threads to the top shock oil-seal assembly which is retained, keeping it from being removed from the shock body by a steel circlip.
WARNING: You are about to overhaul what effectively is a pressurized hydraulic cylinder. If you do not get the shock completely and effectively de-pressurized before you attempt to disassemble, the main shock body as well as remote canister body, you can be seriously injured or maimed! So consider yourself warned...and me released of any liability
The first and most important thing you need to do before disassembly: Let the nitrogen out of the shock's remote canister and then the main shock body. Use a small screw driver or the the Schrader valve tool to fully release the nitrogen pressure. Then, again using the Schrader valve tool, remove the Schrader valve core and set aside. You have just released the nitrogen pressure from the outside portion of the remote canister. However the main shock body is still somewhat pressurized with nitrogen and will need to be released safely. To do this you may need to loosen the hose fitting either on the main shock body side or the remote side. Do this slowly to allow safe release of the nitrogen. When you do this shock oil will also be released so have plenty of rags on hand.
Once you get both the main shock body and the remote canister de-pressurized you can then, and only then, move on to complete disassembly of the shock and remote canister.
Photo 1: The minimum tools you'll need to overhaul a Fox or Radflo shock (in addition to the seal/wear band rings, shock oil, etc.). These may be the same for King and other mono-tube style shocks but since I have not personally overhauled them I can't say for sure. The "T" shaped tool is a home brew with 1/4-20tpi threaded end (made from a plain steel bolt, welded to the "T" rod...) you will need to remove the floating piston from the remote canister. You can do the job without this tool but its much easier with it.
Additionally a source of compressed air with a rubber tipped blow gun is another near must-have for this job especially if you are overhauling a shock that has some rust/corrosion...very typical. And a bucket or used oil container for the old shock oil, brake cleaner and/or a parts cleaner too.
You will need some way to hold the shock and canister bodies. I use an old Black & Decker Benchmate along with aluminum vise jaws I fabricated from 1/2" thick aluminum plate. The aluminum jaws insure you don't inadvertently damage the shock/remote bodies when using a vise. If you have an extra pair or three of hands around then maybe you can get by without the special vise jaws...judge yourself accordingly.
Photo 2: Schrader valve in the remote canister.
Photo 3: Removing the Schrader valve core to de-pressurize the remote canister.
Photo 4: 3/32" hex key aka "Allen" wrench to remove set-screw within the main shock body upper cap. This cap, on the Radflo, keeps the main seal cap from moving up the main shock body. This threaded cap threads to the top shock oil-seal assembly which is retained, keeping it from being removed from the shock body by a steel circlip.
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- Thread starter
- #529
Once you are 100% positive you have released the nitrogen from both the main shock body and the remote canister you can proceed to disassembling the main shock body.
Once you've removed the set-screw from the shock retaining ring you will need to remove the lock ring. To remove the knurled outer ring cap from the shock body you may need to use a pipe wrench. Be gentle as the knurled ring is aluminum!
After the lock ring has been removed you will depress the main shock cap. If you've fully de-pressurized the main shock body you will be able to do this by hand by pushing the seal cap assembly inward. You only need to press the cap in far enough to expose the steel retention circlip.
Carefully, taking care not to score/scratch the shock bore, remove the circlip using a small flat bladed screwdriver; this is easier with two small flat blade screwdrivers: One to pry the circlip away from the shock body and the 2nd screwdriver to lever it out away from the retention groove.
After you have removed the circlip you will be able to pull the main shaft assembly from the outer shock body. Be sure to have plenty of rags handy and protect the flooring with cardboard, etc., just in case the shock burps shock oil when you remove the piston assembly. Have your oil bucket handy...
Take care not to damage the flat piston seal when removing the piston shaft assembly from the shock body. After you remove the piston shaft assembly from the body...then drain the shock oil from the shock body.
You will do the same basic procedure to the Schrader valve side of the remote canister. Push the end cap seal fitting inward far enough to expose the circlip. You will probably need to thread the Schrader valve tool onto the outer threads of the Schrader valve to have enough leverage to be able to remove, by pulling, the cap from the remote reservoir canister.
If the remote reservoir's end cap is stubborn and can't be removed you will then need to re-insert the main piston shaft assembly including the circlip to retain it to the shock body and use compressed air with a rubber tipped blow gun from the open Schrader valve on the remote canister end cap. Use minimum compressed air pressure, typically only 30-50psi is needed, to remove the end cap. Again place rags over the top to catch any pressurized shock oil as the end cap "blows" from the remote canister.
Once you've removed the set-screw from the shock retaining ring you will need to remove the lock ring. To remove the knurled outer ring cap from the shock body you may need to use a pipe wrench. Be gentle as the knurled ring is aluminum!
After the lock ring has been removed you will depress the main shock cap. If you've fully de-pressurized the main shock body you will be able to do this by hand by pushing the seal cap assembly inward. You only need to press the cap in far enough to expose the steel retention circlip.
Carefully, taking care not to score/scratch the shock bore, remove the circlip using a small flat bladed screwdriver; this is easier with two small flat blade screwdrivers: One to pry the circlip away from the shock body and the 2nd screwdriver to lever it out away from the retention groove.
After you have removed the circlip you will be able to pull the main shaft assembly from the outer shock body. Be sure to have plenty of rags handy and protect the flooring with cardboard, etc., just in case the shock burps shock oil when you remove the piston assembly. Have your oil bucket handy...
Take care not to damage the flat piston seal when removing the piston shaft assembly from the shock body. After you remove the piston shaft assembly from the body...then drain the shock oil from the shock body.
You will do the same basic procedure to the Schrader valve side of the remote canister. Push the end cap seal fitting inward far enough to expose the circlip. You will probably need to thread the Schrader valve tool onto the outer threads of the Schrader valve to have enough leverage to be able to remove, by pulling, the cap from the remote reservoir canister.
If the remote reservoir's end cap is stubborn and can't be removed you will then need to re-insert the main piston shaft assembly including the circlip to retain it to the shock body and use compressed air with a rubber tipped blow gun from the open Schrader valve on the remote canister end cap. Use minimum compressed air pressure, typically only 30-50psi is needed, to remove the end cap. Again place rags over the top to catch any pressurized shock oil as the end cap "blows" from the remote canister.
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- Thread starter
- #530
Remove the air supply (non-hose side ) side seal cap from the remote canister. Looking down into the remote canister you'll see the floating piston with the 1/4-20 threads. Take your home made "T" tool and carefully thread it into the floating piston's threads. Gently pull up to remove the floating piston from the remote canister. Drain as much oil out of the remote canister as you can...including cycling the piston/shaft apart of the main shock body.
Remove the piston/shaft assembly from the main shock body. Take care not to damage the split ring wear bands/rings. Inspect the bands for wear. If visible wear is present then replace the wear bands/rings.
Using brake cleaner, thoroughly flush/clean the inside of the main shock body and the remote canister.
Photo 1: Remote canister's cap & o-ring seal.
Photo 2: Removing the cap & o-ring seal fitting from the remote canister
Photo 3: Removing the floating piston from the remote canister.
Photo 4: Remote canister's floating piston.
) side seal cap from the remote canister. Looking down into the remote canister you'll see the floating piston with the 1/4-20 threads. Take your home made "T" tool and carefully thread it into the floating piston's threads. Gently pull up to remove the floating piston from the remote canister. Drain as much oil out of the remote canister as you can...including cycling the piston/shaft apart of the main shock body.Remove the piston/shaft assembly from the main shock body. Take care not to damage the split ring wear bands/rings. Inspect the bands for wear. If visible wear is present then replace the wear bands/rings.
Using brake cleaner, thoroughly flush/clean the inside of the main shock body and the remote canister.
Photo 1: Remote canister's cap & o-ring seal.
Photo 2: Removing the cap & o-ring seal fitting from the remote canister
Photo 3: Removing the floating piston from the remote canister.
Photo 4: Remote canister's floating piston.
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- Thread starter
- #531
Remove the piston/shaft assembly from the main shock body. Again take care not to damage the split ring wear band.
To disassemble the piston/shaft assembly remove the lock nut at the end of the piston/shaft. The rebound shim stack lies immediately underneath the lock nut you just removed. Using a twisty tie/zip tie to keep the entire stack, including all thick valve shim plates/washers, tie the shim stack together and label as your rebound shim stack.
Remove the piston noting the rebound side versus the compression side. Then remove the compression valve/shim stack tying all shims/washers together as above and label as compression side.
If you are replacing the seals and o-rings: Using a small diameter awl/pick carefully remove the three oil seals apart of the main shock body's cap. Using a small flat blade screwdriver carefully remove the o-rings from both top caps and the floating piston. NOTE: As you remove each seal note the orientation for each...so you get the new seals installed properly...unless you have a photographic memory unlike me
These seals are made from a fairly hard durometer material and can be a chore to remove...and even more so to properly install. Patience and care here will pay dividends!
Clean all parts with brake cleaner including the seal recessed grooves.
Photo 1: Top of main shock body showing depressed seal cap and in place circlip.
Photo 2: Main piston/shaft assembly, remote canister's floating piston, circlips and air side fitting.
Photo 3: Removing main piston/shaft end lock nut.
Photo 4: Main shock body piston/shaft parts removed.
Photo 5: Labeled parts of the main shock's piston/shaft assembly.
To disassemble the piston/shaft assembly remove the lock nut at the end of the piston/shaft. The rebound shim stack lies immediately underneath the lock nut you just removed. Using a twisty tie/zip tie to keep the entire stack, including all thick valve shim plates/washers, tie the shim stack together and label as your rebound shim stack.
Remove the piston noting the rebound side versus the compression side. Then remove the compression valve/shim stack tying all shims/washers together as above and label as compression side.
If you are replacing the seals and o-rings: Using a small diameter awl/pick carefully remove the three oil seals apart of the main shock body's cap. Using a small flat blade screwdriver carefully remove the o-rings from both top caps and the floating piston. NOTE: As you remove each seal note the orientation for each...so you get the new seals installed properly...unless you have a photographic memory unlike me
These seals are made from a fairly hard durometer material and can be a chore to remove...and even more so to properly install. Patience and care here will pay dividends!
Clean all parts with brake cleaner including the seal recessed grooves.
Photo 1: Top of main shock body showing depressed seal cap and in place circlip.
Photo 2: Main piston/shaft assembly, remote canister's floating piston, circlips and air side fitting.
Photo 3: Removing main piston/shaft end lock nut.
Photo 4: Main shock body piston/shaft parts removed.
Photo 5: Labeled parts of the main shock's piston/shaft assembly.
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- Thread starter
- #532
Photo 1: Seals removed from the main shock piston/shaft top cap.
Photo 2: Rebound side of the valve piston.
Photo 3: Fox shock oil.
Photo 4: Labeled seals apart of the main shock's upper seal cap
Photo 2: Rebound side of the valve piston.
Photo 3: Fox shock oil.
Photo 4: Labeled seals apart of the main shock's upper seal cap
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- Thread starter
- #533
If replacing the 3-lip seals: Liberally lube the three lip style seals with clean new shock oil. Insert the seals into the upper cap for the main shock body starting with, from the top side, the inner most seal position. Take care not to damage the seals during installation; they are a very tight fit especially the upper position seal (largest of the 3 seals).
Lube and replace the 3 round o-rings. Note: There is a 4th o-ring on the hose side cap for the remote. My o-ring kit only came with 3 o-rings and since this o-ring did not show any signs of leaking I left it in place.
Before you move on to refilling the shock and remote canister with new shock oil you will want to clamp the main shock body vertically in a vise. Use rags if necessary to pad the shock from metal vise jaws. Tie or rubber band a thick absorbent towel around the shock body (this will catch overflow purged shock oil).
Generally each shock manufacturer has their own shock oil volume. For my 2.5 Radflo shocks, per Glenn (and this is very similar to Fox's recommended shock oil volume), you want to end up with the main shock body 100% full of shock oil along with 1" into the remote canister (and, of course, the hose connecting the shock body and remote canister). My remote canister measures 9" internal height; minus 1" desired oil volume to be left in the remote minus the height of the floating piston (1-1/4") I ended up with 6-3/4" measured from the air cap side of the remote canister to the floating piston inside same. This, after you are done filling the shock system, will leave 1" shock oil height/volume within the remote canister.
With clean new shock liberally oil lube the remote canister's floating piston's wear band and o-ring and attach your "T" tool into the threads in the floating piston.
To do this you will, after you have secured the main shock body (hose attached to shock and remote) in a suitable vise with the shaft/open side facing up and holding the remote canister in one hand and the oil container in the other, slowly pour new shock oil into the remote canister until the main shock body is approximately 75% full. You will need to adjust the height of the remote canister relative to the main shock body so you end up with both the main shock and the remote canister being 75% or so full of shock oil.
Now carefully insert the floating piston (with the "T" tool attached) into the remote canister taking care not to pinch or damage the wear band and o-rings as you insert the floating piston. You may have to "roll" the piston to enable better insertion; this helps prevent damage to the wear band and/or o-ring.
Once you have the floating piston installed slowly push on the "T" tool nearly to the bottom of the remote canister. You will notice as you push the floating piston farther into the remote canister the oil volume level in the main shock body will expand closer to the top opening. Cycle the floating piston slowing up and down within the remote canister. You want to purge all the air bubbles out of the shock/remote/hose system thereby allowing only 100% shock oil to occupy these spaces sans any air. After you no longer see air bubbles purging from the main shock body oil you will then set the floating piston to the required depth (6-3/4" measure on my 9" long remote canisters).
Photo 1: Main shock body full of shock oil; floating piston set to depth in the remote canister
Photo 2: Floating piston set to depth in the remote canister
Photo 3: Piston/shaft assembly just placed into the shock oil filled main shock body
Photo 4: Shock oil starting to purge up through the shock piston as the piston/shaft is slowly inserted into the main shock body
Photo 5: Piston/shaft insertion...
Lube and replace the 3 round o-rings. Note: There is a 4th o-ring on the hose side cap for the remote. My o-ring kit only came with 3 o-rings and since this o-ring did not show any signs of leaking I left it in place.
Before you move on to refilling the shock and remote canister with new shock oil you will want to clamp the main shock body vertically in a vise. Use rags if necessary to pad the shock from metal vise jaws. Tie or rubber band a thick absorbent towel around the shock body (this will catch overflow purged shock oil).
Generally each shock manufacturer has their own shock oil volume. For my 2.5 Radflo shocks, per Glenn (and this is very similar to Fox's recommended shock oil volume), you want to end up with the main shock body 100% full of shock oil along with 1" into the remote canister (and, of course, the hose connecting the shock body and remote canister). My remote canister measures 9" internal height; minus 1" desired oil volume to be left in the remote minus the height of the floating piston (1-1/4") I ended up with 6-3/4" measured from the air cap side of the remote canister to the floating piston inside same. This, after you are done filling the shock system, will leave 1" shock oil height/volume within the remote canister.
With clean new shock liberally oil lube the remote canister's floating piston's wear band and o-ring and attach your "T" tool into the threads in the floating piston.
To do this you will, after you have secured the main shock body (hose attached to shock and remote) in a suitable vise with the shaft/open side facing up and holding the remote canister in one hand and the oil container in the other, slowly pour new shock oil into the remote canister until the main shock body is approximately 75% full. You will need to adjust the height of the remote canister relative to the main shock body so you end up with both the main shock and the remote canister being 75% or so full of shock oil.
Now carefully insert the floating piston (with the "T" tool attached) into the remote canister taking care not to pinch or damage the wear band and o-rings as you insert the floating piston. You may have to "roll" the piston to enable better insertion; this helps prevent damage to the wear band and/or o-ring.
Once you have the floating piston installed slowly push on the "T" tool nearly to the bottom of the remote canister. You will notice as you push the floating piston farther into the remote canister the oil volume level in the main shock body will expand closer to the top opening. Cycle the floating piston slowing up and down within the remote canister. You want to purge all the air bubbles out of the shock/remote/hose system thereby allowing only 100% shock oil to occupy these spaces sans any air. After you no longer see air bubbles purging from the main shock body oil you will then set the floating piston to the required depth (6-3/4" measure on my 9" long remote canisters).
Photo 1: Main shock body full of shock oil; floating piston set to depth in the remote canister
Photo 2: Floating piston set to depth in the remote canister
Photo 3: Piston/shaft assembly just placed into the shock oil filled main shock body
Photo 4: Shock oil starting to purge up through the shock piston as the piston/shaft is slowly inserted into the main shock body
Photo 5: Piston/shaft insertion...
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- Thread starter
- #534
After you have the floating piston pushed to the proper depth then you will install the shock piston/shaft assembly. Liberally lube, using clean new shock oil. the wear band and o-ring. Install the piston assembly into the main shock body. Again you may need to "roll" the fitting as you insert the piston into the shock body to prevent pinching the wear band and/or o-ring.
Once you have the o-ring side of the piston installed slowly push down on the piston/cap assembly. This will purge excess shock oil...now you see the purpose of the rag wrapped around the shock body! As you push down on the piston cap you will notice the floating piston being raised in the remote canister. FYI Fox shocks feature a couple bleed valves on the piston/cap fitting so that shock oil can be purged without effecting the floating piston's position in the remote canister. However my Radflo caps do not have this bleed hole.
When you have pushed the piston cap fitting flush with the top of the shock body go back to the remote canister and reset the floating piston to the proper depth. Then slowly push the main shock's cap fitting to just below the circlip groove. You may need to go back and forth between installing the air cap and resetting the depth of the floating piston in the remote canister.
Once you have the piston cap just deep enough to clear the circlip groove, install the circlip be 100% positive you have the circlip fully seated! Now push the "T" tool/floating piston so the main shock body's piston cap fully seats against the circlip. Install & tighten the threaded knurled lock nut onto the piston cap and securely tighten the 3/32" set-screw. Note: If the "Allen" set-screw can be removed from the knurled locking nut, I recommend cleaning the threads of the set-screw and the internal threads on the knurled locking nut with brake cleaner and then using Loctite 222 (mild thread locking fluid) on the threads.
Unthread the "T" tool from the floating piston. Liberally lube the o-ring and air cap fitting and, again rolling the fitting into place if necessary to prevent damaging the o-ring, press the fitting down into the remote canister just below the circlip groove. Install the circlip insuring it is 100% fully seated. Using the valve core tool thread the tool onto the outer threaded portion of the Schrader valve and pull to seat the air cap against the circlip. If the air cap is stubborn and can't be pulled into place...then you'll just rely upon the nitrogen pressure to do same so no worries.
Using your loss-less type fitting and with the nitrogen tank gauge/valve only set to about 50-psi fill the shock system with nitrogen. You will hear the main shock cap seat along with the air cap on the remote side. Once both caps are seated in place check for air/shock oil leaks. If you've done everything correctly you won't hear/see leakage evidence of either. Then go ahead and increase the nitrogen pressure to 200psi.
Photo 1: Shock oil being purged from the main shock body as the top seal cap is inserted
Photo 2: Schrader valve side of the remote canister showing the inserted seal cap and snap ring in place.
Photo 3: Nitrogen tank, regulator, gauge and no-loss chuck set up
Once you have the o-ring side of the piston installed slowly push down on the piston/cap assembly. This will purge excess shock oil...now you see the purpose of the rag wrapped around the shock body! As you push down on the piston cap you will notice the floating piston being raised in the remote canister. FYI Fox shocks feature a couple bleed valves on the piston/cap fitting so that shock oil can be purged without effecting the floating piston's position in the remote canister. However my Radflo caps do not have this bleed hole.
When you have pushed the piston cap fitting flush with the top of the shock body go back to the remote canister and reset the floating piston to the proper depth. Then slowly push the main shock's cap fitting to just below the circlip groove. You may need to go back and forth between installing the air cap and resetting the depth of the floating piston in the remote canister.
Once you have the piston cap just deep enough to clear the circlip groove, install the circlip be 100% positive you have the circlip fully seated! Now push the "T" tool/floating piston so the main shock body's piston cap fully seats against the circlip. Install & tighten the threaded knurled lock nut onto the piston cap and securely tighten the 3/32" set-screw. Note: If the "Allen" set-screw can be removed from the knurled locking nut, I recommend cleaning the threads of the set-screw and the internal threads on the knurled locking nut with brake cleaner and then using Loctite 222 (mild thread locking fluid) on the threads.
Unthread the "T" tool from the floating piston. Liberally lube the o-ring and air cap fitting and, again rolling the fitting into place if necessary to prevent damaging the o-ring, press the fitting down into the remote canister just below the circlip groove. Install the circlip insuring it is 100% fully seated. Using the valve core tool thread the tool onto the outer threaded portion of the Schrader valve and pull to seat the air cap against the circlip. If the air cap is stubborn and can't be pulled into place...then you'll just rely upon the nitrogen pressure to do same so no worries.
Using your loss-less type fitting and with the nitrogen tank gauge/valve only set to about 50-psi fill the shock system with nitrogen. You will hear the main shock cap seat along with the air cap on the remote side. Once both caps are seated in place check for air/shock oil leaks. If you've done everything correctly you won't hear/see leakage evidence of either. Then go ahead and increase the nitrogen pressure to 200psi.
Photo 1: Shock oil being purged from the main shock body as the top seal cap is inserted
Photo 2: Schrader valve side of the remote canister showing the inserted seal cap and snap ring in place.
Photo 3: Nitrogen tank, regulator, gauge and no-loss chuck set up
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- Thread starter
- #535
Depending whether you can install the shocks to your truck with them fully extended/pressurized or not...you may need to release the nitrogen, then install the shocks to the rig and then after the shocks are bolted/installed refill with nitrogen.
In another thread I mentioned, even though I own a loss-less type chuck for filling the shocks with nitrogen, I seldom use it and instead use a non-locking style air chuck (same as you fill your tires with) most of the time. When you are filling the shock for the first time, or one with low/no nitrogen pressure in it, after a rebuild you may not be able to push on the manual chuck without depressing the air cap into the remote canister. For this reason, when filling a zero pressure shock for the first time I find its easier to use the loss-less style air chuck. YMMV.
In another thread I mentioned, even though I own a loss-less type chuck for filling the shocks with nitrogen, I seldom use it and instead use a non-locking style air chuck (same as you fill your tires with) most of the time. When you are filling the shock for the first time, or one with low/no nitrogen pressure in it, after a rebuild you may not be able to push on the manual chuck without depressing the air cap into the remote canister. For this reason, when filling a zero pressure shock for the first time I find its easier to use the loss-less style air chuck. YMMV.
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- #536
Also even though this is specifically about Fox Shock overhaul, this video was a help to me getting along with self-servicing my shocks...Fox and Radflo included.
yup, very nice.
But please, man, do put some grease under your fingernails, so this looks like a real cruiserhead writeup.... way too clean...
Well, at least you got a bandaid, that's a bit in the right direction, though...
But please, man, do put some grease under your fingernails, so this looks like a real cruiserhead writeup.... way too clean...
Well, at least you got a bandaid, that's a bit in the right direction, though...
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- #539
Thanks Stan! I need to play with time-lapse photography/video as it would add immeasurably for those attempting this for the first time; sure would be nice to have a videographer on hand
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yup, very nice.
But please, man, do put some grease under your fingernails, so this looks like a real cruiserhead writeup.... way too clean...
Well, at least you got a bandaid, that's a bit in the right direction, though...
Nitrile gloves...by the case
