eatSleepWoof's 2019 Erwin Hymer Touring GT550 (1 Viewer)

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May 18, 2017
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Location
Vernon, BC
This is the third trailer we've owned this year. Really hoping this one sticks around for a while :).

I've been "trailer hunting" ever since we came back from a 5-day, 4-night camping trip a few weeks ago. We (yet again) decided that a RTT isn't cutting it for our favourite type of camping: spring/autumn, and a bit of winter.

After looking at countless trailer manufacturers and models, I put together my criteria as such:

- fibreglass body
- some sort of insulation
- better quality than the mainstream travel trailers
- large main sleeping area (ideally a full size queen bed at 60x80)
- toilet and shower
- a dinette that can convert into another sleeping area for two kids (down the line)
- at least a 20g fresh water tank
- standing room height
- good heater that is quiet enough that I can sleep with it working (the one we had in our previous Rockwood 1640 ESP was very, very loud)
- small fridge
- hot water
- under 20ft in length
- reasonably modern interior

After 1.5 weeks of searching all classifieds multiple times per day, I had completely given up on finding something that meets the above criteria, much less that also fits in the garage. My main search target was Escape trailers, in the 17ft and 19ft layouts. These are highly sought after and very tough to find used. The ones that do show up are usually in the $20-25k CAD range for 12-15 year old models, and they sell literally within hours of being listed. I figured I had a few years worth of searching ahead of me.

Lo and behold, on Wednesday I accidentally stumbled upon this unit. I had never seen these things before, nor even heard of them. At first glance it looked like an absolute unicorn: all of the above criteria were met, AND with the pop-top, it's only 7'4" in height, so it easily clears my 8' garage door. I did some very quick research and made take-away notes:

- European company that has been building products since the 50's
- These units were made by a North American child company, in Ontario, Canada
- North American company went under due to shady financials; thus, no warranty and limited parts availability
- Some reports online about trailers being unstable and swaying at speed; I noted the axle seems to be further forward than on other trailers
- Some reports about miscellaneous quality issues; majority being small and easy to address

Overall it sounded like something I could work with. The problem was that the dealership selling this was 10hrs away. I called them, asked a few questions, made an offer which they accepted (should have gone lower, but I had no other units to look at for reference), and took Friday off. On Thursday evening I took off from home, picked up the unit Friday morning, and started the trip back home.

This 2019 model was previously a rental, so it has a few signs of use, but nothing serious. Most notable current "issues" is cracked caulking/sealant around a few exterior hatches; easy enough to fix.

As I got on the highway I took it up to the speed limit (110kph) and noticed a little bit of sway behind me. Without thinking about it too much, I got up to my "normal" speed limit+10 cruising speed (120kph in this case) and kept on. At one point I made a small correction in my line, and saw a horrible sight in my mirrors: the trailer was swinging at least a foot in each direction. With butt-pucker factor cranked to 100%, I had instant flashbacks of seeing such things on YouTube videos, and the resulting flips of both trailer and tow vehicle. I kept it as straight as I could and accelerated as the slowest possible rate - within 10-15 seconds (felt like an eternity) the trailer settled in and stopped swaying. I slowed down to 100kph and did the rest of the drive at that speed (despite being on many seconds with 120kph speed limits). I've never driven this slow in my life, but I was on pins & needles the entire time.

Got home yesterday morning after spending on night in the trailer. The heat worked awesome and was very, very quiet. The water heater is great (never had one before, so I've got nothing to compare to). The bed is pretty comfy, and overall the trailer is everything we need. It is definitely tight on space, but still a heck of an upgrade from any tent, and I think it's a great middle ground.

Overall construction is exponentially better than the Rockwood trailer we had before, and better than any mainstream trailer I've seen. Of course, it cannot hold a candle to an Airstream, Oliver, Bigfoot, etc., but it is also 1/3rd of the price and fits in the garage. So far it looks like excellent value.

At the dealership:

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Waiting for the ferry:

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Breakfast on the road:

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And home:

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Since I had a brand new ARK XO750 jockey wheel sitting in the garage, it went on immediately:

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The trailer has a very low tongue weight. Despite a very bad knee (recent surgery) I can lift the tongue in the air by hand. The rake takes things even further by shifting more weight behind the axle. My theory is that since this trailer is of European design, and most vehicles there are tiny, economical and practical (ie. low tow capacity and tongue weights), the axle was intentionally placed further forward than normal to minimize tongue weight.

The instability is dangerous and needs an immediate fix. A lower hitch is an easy fix and I have one on hand, but what it really needs is a weight distributing, stabilizing hitch. There are existing, bolt-on solutions to this referenced in a Facebook owner's group for this trailer, and I will likely be ordering those parts momentarily.

Outside of stability, the biggest immediate issue is clearance. This thing is incredibly low to the ground. The grey water tank & drainage is probably no more than 4" off the pavement, which simply won't do for the forest service roads we intend to go on.

The trailer frame is aluminium (another big plus), and it is sandwiched between the fibreglass. The axle is bolted to this frame from the top, so there is no reasonable way to remove it. What people do is cut the ends of the axle off, and u-bolt a new torsion axle below it, resulting in a 4" lift. I think I can do a 6" lift and still fit in the garage, so that's what I'd like.

I'm considering options to mount Timbren suspension (and a spacer between that and frame), but that's also tricky. On the underside of the trailer is a 3x3, galvanized pole-design tongue that's attached to the inner frame structure. Along the sides of the trailer is steel c-channel. That's it as far as underneath structure goes. To mount Timbren suspension I'd need at least one crossmember, and a way to attach the Timbrens. I have some ideas, and I think it may be doable, but will need to spend some time under the trailer to figure things out.

Beyond stability improvements and lift, I want to:
- extend the tongue with a folding hinge (like on boat trailers)
- get rid of the horrible surge brakes in favour of electric ones
- add a rear bumper and receiver for spare tire (there's no spare on this thing!)
- better rear backup lighting
- custom storage box on the front, to house 2 20lb propane tanks, battery, and likely a few Scepter water cans
- a bunch of interior usability improvements (proper bedding, maybe a mattress topper, hooks and pockets for various storage, paper towel holder, etc.)

Fun times ahead!
 
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That looks like a very nice trailer both inside and out.

Mounting a rear bumper with spare will negatively effect your already poor tongue weight. Is there room under the trailer in front of the axle?

Don‘t forget to factor in the added height of taller tires after you install the lifted suspension.

Based on your picture, your jockey system as mounted and adjusted will prevent you from turning left or at least damage the LX bumper or jockey wheel.
 
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Mounting a rear bumper with spare will negatively effect your already poor tongue weight. Is there room under the trailer in front of the axle?

Don‘t forget to factor in the added height of taller tires after you install the lifted suspension.

Yes, that’s definitely a factor. I suspect it’ll be fine after I’m done with the tongue related changes, but if anything, I can always keep the spare in the LX or mount it on the tongue.

Right now I’m not planning on switching out the wheels, so the height won’t be affected on that front, but the idea of putting in a wider axle and matching wheels/tires to the LX did cross my mind. Don’t think I’ll be able to fit it into the garage at that point, though. Will have to double check.
 
Based on your picture, your jockey system as mounted and adjusted will prevent you from turning left or at least damage the LX bumper or jockey wheel.
You’ve got a good eye for detail. Yes, totally. I don’t plan on using the jockey wheel in that position, I was only playing around to see what room I have with the wheel pointing up. It’ll be normally in the down position, which gives me more clearance at the coupler/receiver end.

Once I extend the tongue this shouldn’t be an issue at all
 
Dropped by a local trailer axle shop today to discuss mods, mods and more mods.

Next week I'll drop the trailer off for this:
1. Building an a-frame tongue that will be bolted in to existing hardware, and welded into the existing tongue.
- will allow me to use a normal weight distributing and sway stabilizing hitch
- will give me a structure on which to build a storage platform
2. Adding two or three boxed cross-members between the existing c-channel frame components running lengthwise along the trailer.
- this will add much needed rigidity to the entire thing
3. Adding a rear bumper, which will also be tied into the c-channel frame.
- two 2" hitch receivers (off centre); one for a spare tire, one for future
- two spots for shackles

They will also be placing an order for a custom torsion axle; this will take upwards of 4 weeks to get here. Once the axle is here, they will cut off existing axle's arms, weld in a solid block to act as a spacer for 5" of lift, weld in porches for a new torsion axle, and bolt in the new axle. New axle will come with electric brakes.

In the meantime I have purchased a spare tire on wheel, and also a folding tongue hinge. Another local shop is preparing a 24" 3x3 piece of steel tubing that will be bolted into this hinge from one side, and the existing tongue will bolt in from the other side. This will extend the tongue by 24", but will allow it to fold to current overall length for easier storage.
 
Interesting trailer! Your goals for the mods are ambitious, to say the least. I wish I had your energy. The excitement you experienced on your initial trip home from the dealer I'll bet was a bit unnerving. Glad you realised what it was and able to control it. Yeah, I think it needs the weight distributed to have more tongue weight. Be interested to see pics when you raise the top. That looks like a great feature. Will you be able to camp in it in below freezing temps? Since you can keep it in your garage (if it's heated) will save you from having to winterize the plumbing. Keep us posted 👍:popcorn:
 
Interesting trailer! Your goals for the mods are ambitious, to say the least. I wish I had your energy. The excitement you experienced on your initial trip home from the dealer I'll bet was a bit unnerving. Glad you realised what it was and able to control it. Yeah, I think it needs the weight distributed to have more tongue weight. Be interested to see pics when you raise the top. That looks like a great feature. Will you be able to camp in it in below freezing temps? Since you can keep it in your garage (if it's heated) will save you from having to winterize the plumbing. Keep us posted 👍:popcorn:

I've already started on the folding tongue! 24" long, 3x3" piece of 1/4"-thick square tubing. Overkill (stock tongue is approximately half that thickness) but that's okay.

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New coupler arrives tomorrow, and once that's mounted (ie. holes drilled) I'll have this piece powdercoated and then re-assemble everything.

We do plan to camp in freezing and sub-freezing temps, but I think we will keep the top down in weather like that. I don't want to stress the canvas fabric or lift/hinge mechanism in such temperatures. It'll also help keep the warmth inside.

My garage is not heated, but sits above a heated room, so I don't think it ever sees freezing temps. Nonetheless, all water tanks are on the bottom of the trailer and are exposed to the elements, so if we go camping with water in them, it will freeze. In the winter we'll drain the tanks and use portable water containers inside the trailer. Not a big deal for the most part.
 
The coupler I had ordered still hasn't arrived and tracking shows it may be as much as a week late, but I found an equivalent coupler locally (for a third of the price!) and got it installed. Also moved the jockey wheel to the tongue extension. I was concerned about how this would work given the pivot point at the hinge, but I'm happy to report it all still works just fine. New position for the jockey wheel allows the wheel to be "up" during travel, and provides more clearance near the vehicle. I may still relocate it again in the future, but this will do for now.

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I also extended the wiring, and ran new wires for the brakes & reverse lights, as these wires were not preset in the original setup.

This is what I found inside the original 7-pin connector. Yikes!

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New & improved:

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Does it have a shower? If you use portable water inside, will that affect usability of your toilet or shower? I'm a complete novice as it pertains to trailers.
 
well-known brand in Europe. I saw a good number of RVs there by Hymer over the years. The interior is very nice, I think the wood and decor colors are great, light and airy. Much classier than the usual. The outside looks sturdy and very waterproof. Did not know you could get them in NA.

First time I see one of those folding tongues. Interesting but would make me a bit nervous.

You will enjoy it. Have fun!
 
Does it have a shower? If you use portable water inside, will that affect usability of your toilet or shower? I'm a complete novice as it pertains to trailers.

There is a toilet + shower combo, known as a "wet bath." In this trailer it is incredibly small. I can fit in there, but it takes some effort. The easiest way to take a shower would be to actually sit on the toilet seat and shower that way. Realistically, it's quite enough for camping; we weren't looking for a spa experience :). There is also an exterior shower, which is more convenient.

All of the 'used' water drains into the grey water tank. In cold temps that water tank will undoubtably freeze. I will likely leave that tank's drain fully open when camping in cold temps, so the water does not accumulate and can quickly drain. In really, really cold temps, I won't drain water into the sinks at all. The potable/fresh water tanks will be empty/drained in cool temps.

The 'black' water tank (ie. human waste) is a cassette toilet, so it is 1) indoors and insulated, and 2) can be easily carried to anywhere you'd normally do your business and emptied there.

well-known brand in Europe. I saw a good number of RVs there by Hymer over the years. The interior is very nice, I think the wood and decor colors are great, light and airy. Much classier than the usual. The outside looks sturdy and very waterproof. Did not know you could get them in NA.

First time I see one of those folding tongues. Interesting but would make me a bit nervous.

You will enjoy it. Have fun!

We do very much like the interior. I'm hopeful that the RV industry will start to produce clean, modern interiors in the coming years, so that 5-10 years down the line we'd have better options to upgrade to. InTech RV has got the right idea with their Sol Horizon model. We may end up in one of those down the line.

There are sealing issues with the door and one of the exterior storage cubbies. I will be working on fixing these problems as soon as I'm done writing this post. Beyond that, it does seem to be quite well waterproofed, but time will tell the real story.

The folding tongue hinges are very, very common on boat trailers. It is rated for a 5000lb, but that's likely for smooth roads, not the FSRs we plan to spend a lot of time on. I will be keeping an eye on it to see how it performs. If it proves to be problematic or issues develop, I will simply have the tongue extension welded on the original tongue.
 
Picked up the trailer with the first round of modifications done: tongue a-framing and the rear bumper. Frame cross-members, replacement axle and lift will happen whenever the parts arrive (next week or the week after). Then I'll get everything powdercoated.

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I quite like how they tied in the new components into the existing tongue. Welds are nice, too.

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The tubing is welded to a flat plate (with gusset) and that's bolted into the existing trailer's hardware.
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Rear bumper has two 2" receivers and a recovery hook in the middle (for a shackle). They will later drill a vertical hole for the receiver pins, and will enlarge the recovery hook to allow a 3/4" shackle to fit.

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The bumper tubing is angled to follow the lines of the trailer body.

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And it's tied into the c-channel via three bolts. One bolt through the c-channel's vertical piece, and two original bolts through the top.

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They cut a hole in the tubing to access the original bolts. Not ideal, but it'll work.

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Nicely enclosed bumper ends.

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And yes, I'll need to replace most of those bolts with longer (so I can fit washers) grade 8 bolts.
 
Nice to see the good work progressing. Fun!
I was wondering about a couple of things:
This A frame up front is not intended to be structural to support the tongue? No concerns about damaging the body?
You're using vertical pins for the receivers in the bumpers because you're expecting only small loads, I imagine?
 
Nice to see the good work progressing. Fun!
I was wondering about a couple of things:
This A frame up front is not intended to be structural to support the tongue? No concerns about damaging the body?
You're using vertical pins for the receivers in the bumpers because you're expecting only small loads, I imagine?

There's no frame rail at the front part of the trailer, so no frame to tie the tongue into. The attachment points used are the mounting points for jacks - they are basically two metal plates with the body (fibreglass) in between them. I'm not sure why there would be a risk of damaging the body - can you expand on that?

The receivers are really only meant for things like a spare tire carrier, or (at most) a bike rack. Thinking about it some more, I may ask the shop to replace the shackle mount with another receiver. I can always use a hitch-attached shackle in it if need be.

I'm also thinking it may be worth having them weld on some angle-iron on the back of the bumper; two pieces along each receiver "exit" would allow a hitch pin to go through the angle iron and through whatever is in the hitch, which would mean no drilling through the bumper, and not having to drill a vertical hole through each hitch accessory.
 
yes, I noticed the A frame goes to the jack. Basically, there is nothing much to support a load there then. Which is probably OK for static support of the body with the jack. But if there is any serious force exerted by the A frame, I would be concerned about ripping those plates off and creating a hole in the body. Now, this likely would not happen unless something serious happens to the tongue, in a turn or jacknife maybe. A potential concern, maybe? I have seen cantilevered tongues seriously bent before. Maybe vibrations might be an issue, too, I don't know. I was just surprised to see such beefy members ending up in pretty much nothing. Unless there is a frame buried in there somehow. If the idea is just to support propane and a battery, much thinner tubes would have sufficed, I would guess. But seeing this from afar, so all just uneducated conjecturing...

I couldn't quite tell how strong the tie in is for the rear bumper either. How much do you expect to pull on that mount point? Looks like one of those trailers where you have a "unibody" tub on a lighter frame.

On a trivia note, I do have a hitch receiver where the pin hole is farther back behind the bumper and I end up cursing under my breath each time I have to use it because I have to lay on the ground or on a creeper each time to secure the pin...

Anyway, you will have a great time, enjoy the trailer!
 
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yes, I noticed the A frame goes to the jack. Basically, there is nothing much to support a load there then. Which is probably OK for static support of the body with the jack. But if there is any serious force exerted by the A frame, I would be concerned about ripping those plates off and creating a hole in the body. Now, this likely would not happen unless something serious happens to the tongue, in a turn or jacknife maybe. A potential concern, maybe? I have seen cantilevered tongues seriously bent before. Maybe vibrations might be an issue, too, I don't know. I was just surprised to see such beefy members ending up in pretty much nothing. Unless there is a frame buried in there somehow. If the idea is just to support propane and a battery, much thinner tubes would have sufficed, I would guess. But seeing this from afar, so all just uneducated conjecturing...

I couldn't quite tell how strong the tie in is for the rear bumper either. How much do you expect to pull on that mount point? Looks like one of those trailers where you have a "unibody" tub on a lighter frame.

On a trivia note, I do have a hitch receiver where the pin hole is farther back behind the bumper and I end up cursing under my breath each time I have to use it because I have to lay on the ground or on a creeper each time to secure the pin...

Anyway, you will have a great time, enjoy the trailer!

Hmm... you've definitely given me some things to think about.

I'm now wondering if it's worth having more tube go from the inner edges/attachment points of the a-frame, back to the tongue, as a cross-member of sorts. That should prevent any unwanted pressure from the a-frame on the body of the trailer, no?

The size of the tubing was/is mostly to match the existing tubing, but the idea is to solidify the "frame" of the trailer, minimize sway (I now have the option of adding a weight distributing hitch) and lastly provide support for anything bolted to the top.

With regards to the rear bumper, I'm really hoping to never actually pull on it :). That's primarily a point of attachment for spare tire, possibly bike rack, reverse lights, etc. I wanted to also have something that would protect the trailer should I accidentally back into a stump or what not. I'd rather have the steel take the hit than the fibreglass of the body. If I do ever end up pulling on the rear, it will be a very slow, controlled crawl type of pull - nothing along the lines of using a snatch strap to pull out a truck buried in mud.
 
well, if you added some braces to make the "/\" attachment into an "A" one, I think that would help a bit with reducing (but not eliminating) potential stress on the body at the jack attachment points since it's not just the body standing between the ends anymore. But I don't see how that would prevent the tongue from bending or would significantly reinforce the "frame" based on what I surmise from the pics. (I'm guessing here.) Maybe to help visualize this, picture the thing without the body but with the frame there. (I'm assuming this C channel with the holes is part of some sort of frame holding the axle.) Does this A bit connect with the frame -besides the tongue- then? If not, then it's not helping with reinforcing the frame, it's just an attachment to the tongue. And using a weight distribution hitch would -I think- increase stress on the tongue even more, which depending on where you attach the distributing springs may be bad for your folding hinge.

I may be entirely wrong about this, but I picture the metal underside as basically one long single member tongue going to some sort of cross frame around the axle, and then a tub sitting on top of that with attachment points to that tongue and frame. Or is there more, like other cross-members or metal imbedded in the fiberglass?

(Not trying to be confrontational or critical here at all, just curious about a different tech and having an interesting conversation about possible issues...)
 
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well, if you added some braces to make the "/\" attachment into an "A" one, I think that would help a bit with reducing (but not eliminating) potential stress on the body at the jack attachment points since it's not just the body standing between the ends anymore. But I don't see how that would prevent the tongue from bending or would significantly reinforce the "frame" based on what I surmise from the pics. (I'm guessing here.) Maybe to help visualize this, picture the thing without the body but with the frame there. (I'm assuming this C channel with the holes is part of some sort of frame holding the axle.) Does this A bit connect with the frame -besides the tongue- then? If not, then it's not helping with reinforcing the frame, it's just an attachment to the tongue. And using a weight distribution hitch would -I think- increase stress on the tongue even more, which depending on where you attach the distributing springs may be bad for your folding hinge.

I may be entirely wrong about this, but I picture the metal underside as basically one long single member tongue going to some sort of cross frame around the axle, and then a tub sitting on top of that with attachment points to that tongue and frame. Or is there more, like other cross-members or metal imbedded in the fiberglass?

(Not trying to be confrontational or critical here at all, just curious about a different tech and having an interesting conversation about possible issues...)

I think I understand what you're saying. I hadn't considered the potential stress on the body from these attachments. Honestly I'm still not convinced it will be an issue, but definitely warrants further thought.

Yes, what you've pictured is exactly correct.

Here's a doodle I just put together:

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The original tongue connects to the original axle. The axle is bolted & welded to something above it - I'm assuming that "something" is a cross member that's hidden within the fibreglass, but I haven't been able to find it in the trailer. As the original axle cannot be removed, it will be left in place and will act as a cross member itself. The rear bumper similarly acts as a cross member, and additional cross members will be added somewhere between the two c-channels.

The c-channels do not run the entire length of the trailer; on the driver side, the channel ends roughly 3/4 of the way past the water tank (where the water tank's fittings would interfere with the channel.

Beyond adding the crossmembers, I think there are two reinforcement options here:

1. Tubing from the jack point, back to the tongue.
- Fairly simple, but may not provide enough rigidity for the whole frame.

2. Tubing from the jack point, to the c-channel.
- More rigidity in the design, but would require working around the existing fittings, and may require cutting out significant chunks of the tube being added.

Combining both options may also be an option, and will depend on the cost.
 

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