"Demon Golf Cart" my "new" FJ40 (2 Viewers)

[ex spert]

Here is my "new" '72 Fj40. I was looking at a fun top off vehicle for the family *cough*cough* ME, and had always liked the old FJ40s. (my brother has had a few and they were a blast) I was looking at an LJ and actually had a deal on a used ultra low mileage LJ and went to pick her up... Looking her over (she was in great shape) I just wan't jazzed about it... It drove like, well, a jeep. Bottom line it sucked! it just felt plasticy and fake.. but it had AC/airbags/modern amenities. But its just a jeep... dime a dozen snooze fest. I have been in and driven a few cool jeeps (with corvette motors) but this was a factory made s*** box...

So I didn't close the deal and choose to wait it out for a FJ40 or defender80 that had some character...

My requirements are a bit different than most here:

• I wanted a V8 (if it didn't have one, it was going to get one)
• I *needed* an automatic (my better half doesn't drive stick, and it was important to me that she could drive it too)
• I wanted a good body, but one the kids and I could get in with a salty/sandy bathing suit and not have to freak out about it. (low/no rust worries... this is why I ruled out a ScoutII)
• It needed to be refined enough that I could drive it around town on weekends and nice evenings without a big hassle
• Didn't want a hardtop, no place to store it and I don't want it on the truck. This is a nice day only driver (I live in Ft. Lauderdale and I don't melt and it ain't cold)
• Needed a bench seat for the kiddies.. (9 & 8)

So when I ran across a V8/automatic/fiberglass body FJ40 on craigslist, I was there!


CONS

• She has the "cheaper" fiberglass body
• Serious leak in the transmission (shift seal and between the transfer case (kitty litter anyone?)
• No front drive shaft
• A Blind squirrel did the wiring (retarded blind squirrel)
• Frame rust, but not massive (it was an AZ cruiser before being dragged over to the Rust/East Coast
• Tires are dry rotted and plugged (but hold air)
• Driverside door flies open on right turns
• Some rusty items (windshield hinges, running boards)
• mismatched shocks and buckboard ride
• Wierd metal tape all over transmission tunnel ?!
• No shifter for NP205 transfercase

PROS

• Motor runs well (after new carb and tune-up, runs GREAT! See "getting shafted" thread)
• Body looks great and good color! Dune tan
• Full doors and glass work great/look great
• Most electronic items works (which is a miracle given the wiring in the engine bay!) Only driver-side break-light doesn't work
• Has bench seat/lap belts for kids
• Interior looks pretty good (dash needs some love)
• Drum Brakes don't pull to either side (but don't stop fast either)
• Steering is manual, but tight (Gary @ Carolina Racing was amazed and said he was shocked at how well/straight she went down the road and steered) He had just dropped a V8 into a jeep and said the FJ40 drove/steered much tighter
• I bought it for what I consider to be a good number

So here is the plan:
I have a $4k budget to spend on getting her fixed up and reliable...


So far I have spent:


Carb: $400
Driveshaft $350
Transmission rebuild $1,100


So I have $2,150
Here is the plan:
4wheel disks: $900
Saginaw Conversion: $800
Rock Slider running boards $350
I have a multimeter (and know how to use it) will go through the wiring $100


Let me know your thoughts/comments!


Here are some PICs

Engine Bay

Rusty undercarriage

Hockey Puck Lift! & Ferrous Oxide

Interior

Cheers!

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Looks like the tunnel is covered with sound barrier stuff to me. Are you going to do the work yourself or have someone else do it? I didnt find disc brakes on the back that much of an inprovement if your current setup is working i would do a knuckle swap for discs up front.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Also did they center your rear axle for the 205? Looks good by the way

 

[ex spert]

I was thinking of doing it my self. I have heard the rear disks don't make that big of a difference. In for a penny in for a pound. I consider brakes a safety item. I have been looking at Guppies write up, I am down for most of that work, I just don't know jack about what to look for/look out for.

I haven't pulled a lot of parts from salvage yards, and frankly don't really know where to begin on sourcing the parts for the knuckle conversion. But I'm crazy enough to give it a try. God knows I have the vocabulary for it!

I have pinged Poser on rear brake set up a few times, but haven't pulled the trigger yet, mostly due to fixing trannies and driveshafts... I want to know how deep the rabbit hole goes with those things first.

After all that, brakes are #1, steering #2...everything else

 

[ex spert]

Also did they center your rear axle for the 205? Looks good by the way

Yep,
Any idea how to figure out what axle is in there...

 

[Pighead]

Properly working/properly adjusted drum brakes work very well. Wheel cylinder rebuild kits are probably still cheap and easy to find. If you're willing to do the work, they will serve you well.

 

[cruiserjunkie]

Looks like a mini truck rear by welded dif cover but need to take a couple more pictures maybe a litlle futher away. Is the diff smaller or same size as the front one? On second look it appears to be a 9.5 center but why weld cover interesting

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

If you piece together the disc brakes and steering you can probably cut those in half and spend that on some new tires. Dry rotted tires are a major safety issue in my book. Looks like a great starting point.

 

[ex spert]

Here is another shot of the rear axle and dif

 

[ex spert]

Just got to a real computer...


The centered rear does look slightly smaller than the front Axle/dif.


Mutt,
I priced out the saginaw conversion and the cheapest I can do it my self is like $779 just for the parts... how in the heck can I cut that in half? I am all ears!

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

Brain fart. For some reason I was thinking mini truck power steering.