Crank Pulley Bolt Torque Question (1 Viewer)

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Iceaxe

I am my rig's nemesis.
Joined
Sep 16, 2011
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581
Location
Reno
Hey guys,
Need to torque my crank pulley bolt to 304 ft lbs. Does anyone have a recommended tool / procedure for doing this? I do have the SST.
Thanks!!
 
Uggh. Indeed. That's what I'm discovering. Thanks bas elfish
 
so I used the 14mm bolt torque converter method to secure it....

I then used my 24" 3/4 breaker with a 30 " pipe / cheater - and cranked - to at least secure it up 80-90% -

then I used the above torque wrench - pulling from the battery side - with all 180lbs of my feeble muscle - praying too I wasn't
damaging the torque converter bolt against the bell housing - I finally got a "click" off the wrench....
indeed you have to pull like a mother.....

now how truly accurate the wrench is....that is another matter - but as far as I have researched - this method is "solid" -
with no reports of catastrophic failure....

I believe too some folks have also gone into the dealer - and were changed ~$50.00 to tighten the bolt to specs....

Bf
 
On a torque wrench that is 1 foot long you need 300 pounds of weight to get 300# feet of torque. On a 2 ft long wrench you only need 150 pounds on the end to generate 300 pound ft of torque
 
On a torque wrench that is 1 foot long you need 300 pounds of weight to get 300# feet of torque. On a 2 ft long wrench you only need 150 pounds on the end to generate 300 pound ft of torque

Aha....so the only trouble (specific the HF wrench) is it is fatty - my cheater pipe easily went over my 3/4" breaker -
but the torque wrench is one beefy bastard - that I couldn't fit the pipe over the handle....

so moral of the story.... if you are going to use a "cheater" on the HF torque wrench - you are going to need a fatty pipe...

Bf
 
Aha....so the only trouble (specific the HF wrench) is it is fatty - my cheater pipe easily went over my 3/4" breaker -
but the torque wrench is one beefy bastard - that I couldn't fit the pipe over the handle....

so moral of the story.... if you are going to use a "cheater" on the HF torque wrench - you are going to need a fatty pipe...

Bf
Aha....so the only trouble (specific the HF wrench) is it is fatty - my cheater pipe easily went over my 3/4" breaker -
but the torque wrench is one beefy bastard - that I couldn't fit the pipe over the handle....

so moral of the story.... if you are going to use a "cheater" on the HF torque wrench - you are going to need a fatty pipe...

Bf

I 2nd the fatty pipe. Go to Home Depot. I think, it's 1 1/2" calvanized pipe and couplers. I used 3 of each, once connected, it's quite a cheater bar, to go over the HF torque wrench.
 
I bought the HF 3/4 drive wrench and a six point socket to go with it. I didn't think it was that difficult to get the 300lb ft. It certainly didn't require a cheater pipe, though I did have one foot on the frame and the other on the front bumper. I also used the bolt on flywheel trick, so there was no movement whatsoever on the crank. If you want to make this wrench more versatile get yourself a 3/4 to 1/2 adapter.
 
Do a little bit of searching around your area for a place that will rent big torque wrenches.
I paid $22 to rent a 600lbs wrench for a day here in Ohio.
Was easy and I didn't have to guess at all.
http://www.centraltoolrental.com/rentals.htm
 
I just secured the crank pulley with a homemade spanner thing against the frame rail and in the threaded bolt holes, then tightened the main bolt as much as I could. I sheared off one of the bolts on my homemade spanner holding the crank pulley so I figured it's tight enough.

Just tighten the craP out of it and you will be fine.
 
I have one of those China made LARGE torque wrench (dont know how much I paid for it, too may years ago) but it goes over 300 ft/lbs and I don't need a cheater to use it.
My first one was borrowed from the semi truck repair shot where I worked. It was very long. I assume the one I have now is just as long.

torque wrench big.jpeg
 
Well I put the frickin cart before the horse 'cause I can't get the damn bolt loose. Broke one breaker bar and two adapters. This was with the bump start method. Used the SST and another breaker bar and stood on the end of it to get it to losen, but no go.
 
were u using a 3/4" socket / breaker ?

again HF be your friend. they sell a 3/4" 24 inch breaker for around $30.00.

tis what i used with a 3 ft pipe / cheater. this along with a 30 mm impact socket and "bump" it came off just like the texasknowhow video. if indeed your "bump" broke a 3/4" breaker that is a first that ive heard on the forums.
 
Basel, I used a 1/2"- broke one breaker bar and now three adapters. Sockets have all been fine. Going straight to Hell now with all the cussin...

I'll try the 3/4" at HF tomorrow. If that doesn't work I might need to get a blow torch.....
 
Side note- I accidentally snapped that tiny little plastic tube that is on top of my radiator and connects to a thin tube. Does this mean I need to buy a new radiator too?
 
Ummmmm.....Yes. I'll bet THAT pissed you off!

I could not get my bolt loose with the starter bump method. By starter didn't have enough balls to make it happen. I did a big no-no and used the torque wrench to break it loose, but only after I sheared off my 1/2" drive on my breaker bar. Then I went to all 3/4" and fixed it. When it came time to put it back on, it took two of us...One to hold the socket in place on the bolt on the flywheel, and one to run the torque wrench. Make sure you use a 6 point 14MM deep well IMPACT socket on the bolt on the flywheel. I sheared off an standard 14MM.

BTW, I did all my stuff because my radiator exploded FIRST., Now you get to do all that I did. May as well do the dizzy oring, PS hoses, trans cooler hoses, all radiator hoses, spark plugs, wires, cap, rotor, fusible links, front bumper, grille..... Oh, and rebuild the front and rear axles while you're in there!

Make sure you flush the cooling system a lot if you/re going to change colors! I got my Radiator from CDan for $348 plus ride.

Good Luck! Get some dry ice for your wallet!
 

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