Busted ignition - ignition cylinder rod replacement (2 Viewers)

[DieselToy]

IT'S FIXED!

 

[Kenso]

My LX just broke tonight in the driveway, pretty damn annoying to be seriously inconvienenced over a mickey mouse part like this. Makes me glad to have this forum though, hopefully I can get the part in short order and be back on the road in a couple days.

 

[emblu.denslob]

I had this happen several weeks ago - I purchased the item from the dealership with the item# from this thread - however, I believe that it was for a '03+ and I have a '99.
I believe that the ignition 'cam' for the '03 is off by one position from the ignition switch. So I found out that the upper bracket assembly and the ignition cam are married.
That being said I went to ToyotaPartSales.com and order the specific part (no part number listed, sorry) to see if that one will match the positioning of the original one[cam].

I currently have the ignition switch hanging down below the dashboard.

If the one from TPS doesn't work, I'm not about to spend $800+ at the dealership to have a new bracket put in (I've already tried removing mine - that crap is in there) I think I'm going to do a push button start.
Has anyone done this yet?

was thinking about attempting it with this:
Advanced Keys - AK-103B Smart Key with Push Start System

thoughts?

 

[Kenso]

If I'm not mistaken, there are 2 part numbers, one for a power adjustable steering column and one for a manual column, so that could be your problem. I used the part # from this thread to fix my 2000 LX, and it seems to be working fine so far. Column locks with the key out and unlocks with the key on, and the truck starts. Haven't driven it yet but I assume it will be fine.

What exactly is yours doing? I found it was somewhat tricky to get the rod indexed to the lock cylinder correctly.

I completely removed the electrical portion of the switch from the bracket while I did the repair, seemed easier that way than trying to align 3 things at once. All in all took about 2 hours.

 

[emblu.denslob]

If I'm not mistaken, there are 2 part numbers, one for a power adjustable steering column and one for a manual column, so that could be your problem.

perhaps that is the issue with the item#, I jumped the gun and just ordered it instead of asking (I get hasty sometimes). we will see with the one I obtain from TPS.com.

What exactly is yours doing? I found it was somewhat tricky to get the rod indexed to the lock cylinder correctly.

what I observed was the ignition cam was indexed 1 off - meaning that when the key position was 'acc' the ignition switch was in the 'off' position. So when I was in the key position 'start' the ignition switch was only in 'on'.
I took the cam out and compared it to the broken cam and it showed an index difference when they were side by side.

I used the part # from this thread to fix my 2000 LX, and it seems to be working fine so far. Column locks with the key out and unlocks with the key on, and the truck starts. Haven't driven it yet but I assume it will be fine.

It might be as you stated - the difference between the manual tilt and the power tilt.


At any rate - I kinda want to cross my fingers that it won't work so that I can attempt the push button start from advancedkey.

thanks

 

[RobRed]

I think I'm going to convert my rig to push button start. I dont want to think about having this happen somewhere inconvenient.

 

[emblu.denslob]

I think I'm going to convert my rig to push button start. I dont want to think about having this happen somewhere inconvenient.

DO IT! then start a thread about the install process.
It seems to costs close to the same if you do just the start button, but if you do the 'hands-free key-less' access I believe that it's about $80/more than just ordering the upper-bracket itself.

I liked how clean advancedkey appears to be...and they use the Toyota/Lexus starter button. have you seen any others that look decent?

 

[RobRed]

I'm researching this now... I'll post up the links that I find in this thread.

I'll do this but it will have to be in Nov sometime since I'm in the middle of my Aux battery, drawers Compressor, inverter build installs.

 

[Brock]

Automotive

 

[RobRed]

Automotive

2nd worst website ever. Thanks for the link.

 

[Brock]

great news...

 

[OregonLC]

so refresh me: is the replacement shaft a hardened part that's less susceptible to breakage? If so I'm going to get this part ordered as a PM.

 

[Kigiin]

^ my mechanic told me it looked like the original part, that broke. He didn't notice any difference in strength, design, etc.

 

[OGBeno]

The equivalent part for the bracket assembly, steering column for the 2005 Avalon is different: PN5280-AA010

AFAIK, the 100 doesn't share this part with any other Toyota/Lexus. Is your information different?

Actually, the correct Avalon PN is a campaign part number now: 04001-45141. This is the recall part number for Avalons.

Completely different than either the 100 series or the Lexus vehicles.

 

[LEXUSCASH]

All,
Let me clarified when my Lexus LX470 (160K miles) cam rod broke inside the steering bracket assembly in my driveway. I called Lexus dealer query about the parts (45897-12020 BOLT, STEERING LOCK, 45280-60510 BRACKET ASSY, STEERING) and the estimate cost of repair. At that moment Lexus dealer don’t have the part available and also it’s late Saturday afternoon. So they won’t be able to order till Monday. So i asked for the PN# maybe possible other dealer or TOYOTA carry it’s. Once I got in touch with HAMPTON TOYOTA (Lafayette LA) part guy inform me Toyota have recal on the part bracket assembly steering 2000-2005 Avalon, if I am interesting having my car tow and repair. After I told him I don’t have TOYOTA Avalon, but it is the LEXUS LX470 2000 (made by Toyota). The guys apologies, they are unable to help me because it is a LEXUS not TOYOTA, but they willing to sell me the part because the PN# matches. That how have I got all those information and all I wanted is LEXUS to reimburse my money for the parts and we will do our own repair in the drive way this weekend. But thank you very much to all the peoples have involve (Lexus customer satisfaction Ms. Irma FAX 310- 974-5170 help me with the process of request of my reimbursement, the Lexus forum on repairs, and the TOYOTA part guy willing to sell me the parts, and the LEXUS guys gave me the PN#) and get my car back up running. I will keep everyone update on my repair this weekend wished me luck I needed. No doubt the LEXUS is good car I been having this car forever and keep running and running, the Stering Mccall LEXUS in Houston make me feel heaven every time I bring my car in for service that is the best of the best LEXUS dealer I ever dealt with.

 

[hoser]

Either there was a misunderstanding or you've been given the wrong information. Part 45280-60510 is an LX470/LC100 part and is not shared with the Avalon. It's not an original part on the Avalon and not a part of their recall campaign. I would not pursue reimbursement from Lexus or Toyota with this plan of action.

 

[OGBeno]

Either there was a misunderstanding or you've been given the wrong information. Part 45280-60510 is an LX470/LC100 part and is not shared with the Avalon. It's not an original part on the Avalon and not a part of their recall campaign. I would not pursue reimbursement from Lexus or Toyota with this plan of action.

X2 what Hoser said.

The above part number is good from 1/1998-8/2002 on LC's and 470's.

 

[informationjunky]

Picked up the parts and went to work. It turned out to be much easier than I first thought. The procedure can be done in 2-3 different ways. The first one is to do what the dealer does (or at least what they say they do) and take out the whole steering column and do all the work on a bench. Or you can loosen the upper 4 bolts holding the column and bring it down a little for better access. The third and easiest way to do it is to just exchange the broken Cam Rod without taking the whole housing off the column.

In an earlier post somebody mention that they had to sacrifice the lower plastic cover below the steering wheel due to the steering wheel being locked via the steering lock (one or two screws are behind the steering wheel). This will not be necessary if you take the ignition sleeve and the first of the two broken Cam Rod pieces out of the housing. This will enable you to stick a screwdriver inside and push on the locking mechanism for the steering lock so that the steering wheel can be turned to access the screws.

However, if you do it the way I just did it, you don't even have to remove the upper two plastic covers.

This procedure (which takes less than an hour to do) is for an LX470 2002:
First remove the plastic cover that sits under the steering column which houses the rear window buttons, the gas fill cover and the hood latch. Remove it completely for easy access. Four Philips screws hold the two latches. Four electrical connections also need to be disconnected. Also remove the metal plate held down by four 10mm bolts. This gives you better access.

Remove the black ring that's around the ignition (one Philips screw) and place it to the side.

Now remove the key cylinder by inserting the key to the ON (or somewhere between ON and Acc) position and push a small screwdriver or a small punch in to the whole underneath the housing to release the key cylinder.

After removing the cylinder make sure you take a look at exactly which position the broken Cam Rod is in so that you get it right when inserting the new one later. I believe you can also look at the new one you just bought as they don't sell just the Cam Rod, but the whole housing.

Now the small broken piece needs to come out and this is where it gets a little trickier. As you will see on the new housing, there is a slot that allows you to insert or remove the Cam Rod which also acts as a lock so the Cam Rod doesn't come out again. Doing the whole procedure this way makes it difficult if not impossible to have a look in the back of the housing since it's still attached to the steering column.

The next step is to remove the two Philips screws holding the white plastic part that is attached to the back of the housing. It's possible to get a medium sized Philips screwdriver in there and remove the screws, but quite difficult to get the screws back in again. (tape the screw to the screwdriver while trying to locate the holes). Then back off the plastic part about 1/4" so that the Cam Rod can be turned easily. Using a pair of very long needle pliers the broken part can now be turned and pulled out. This is where you will look at the new Cam Rod and the new housing to see how to position the broken off piece inside the housing so that it can be extracted. Mine had to be turned about 90 degrees to the left.

After this you take the new Cam Rod and push it in all the way so that the slot in the housing is aligned with the part of the Cam Rod that needs to fit in this slot. I used a pair of needle pliers to push the rod in. Then turn the Cam Rod so it's in the same position as the old one was in when you first took it apart. This should prevent you from placing the rod in the 180 degree wrong position. If you turn it 180 degrees the wrong way I believe you will have to use procedure 1 or 2 (removing the housing by drilling out the bolts) since the Cam Rod is now in the way for you to get in with a long screwdriver and release the steering lock. Fortunately it worked the first time for me.

Good Luck and please send me any questions about the above ramblings.

Well we joined the club tonight.... AAA towed it 4 miles from the gas station to our house. Hopped on mud and fount this thread. I followed it mostly, however I missed how to remove the second broken piece at first. Finally re read and found the two screws on the back of the housing. First I removed the metal plate at the bottom of the dash, then the black plastic vent housing and I was finally able to see the screws. I found that unplugging the cables to it allowed more room and VOLA!! I stuck a screw driver in the top slot to hold the locks out of the way and fished the last piece out with a piece of coat hanger with a small hook at the end. I plan on trying to find the replacement parts first thing tommorow.

I owe you a few beverages if you ever make it to Atlanta.

 

[parnoren]

Happy to help. Please let us know how it works out.

 

[informationjunky]

Had this happen in 2007, I have an '00 LX. I replaced only the shaft, but had to buy the housing and the shaft. It was about $200 at a dealer. The bastard at the counter laughed when he saw the broken part. He said it's a common thing and they keep them in stock for that reason.

It was a b'tch to replace the shaft only, but I think it's still easier that swapping in the bracket. I think there should be a recall based on this things breaking.

P.S. some bitch edited the bitch out of my bitching sentence, so I said bitch, I have to edit it.

so refresh me: is the replacement shaft a hardened part that's less susceptible to breakage? If so I'm going to get this part ordered as a PM.

^ my mechanic told me it looked like the original part, that broke. He didn't notice any difference in strength, design, etc.

Well I'll post a picture tommorow...it has been redesigned with the area where they seem to break thickened. Just to confirm its a known issue besides the redesign, is that my local dealership that doesn't stock spark plugs had it in stock. I'm pretty mad that this seems to be a known defect by toyota.

Happy to help. Please let us know how it works out.

Your method is the way to go...I pulled the switch completely off the back side off the housing and used the slot location in it to match the rod with. I then attached it back after putting the rod in. Didn't have to remove the housing at all.

Manny thanks again.