- Thread starter
- #141
Wow...impressive work man!
I envy your skills.
Thats gonna be a great looking ride when you're done.
-Ed
Thanks for the encouragement Ed - not sure at this point if I'll ever be done
Bumps on my 78’s rear tub/fenders?
- Thread starter Gusb
- Start date
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Thanks for the encouragement Ed - not sure at this point if I'll ever be done
Nice work!
What are you using to cut the patch panels on the cruiser ? How did you cut such nice pieces on the bench ? I've got a grinder but I can't get a straight cut.
What wheels are you using to grind? I like Roloc and 3M abrasive discs at 36 grit but my air compressor can't keep up with my die grinder ! Was wondering what you used and have found good . What size compressor do you have? I really need to upgrade or get electric die grinder.
2" Roloc Quick Change Disc Surface Conditioning Type R
Are you priming the back sides after? I see you are using weld thru primer. Do you just do that where the weld will be or places that will be covered after welding? I am repairing the same area. I have Pro line of paint for the outside but I don't know what I will primer the inside with.
Thanks for the help !
What are you using to cut the patch panels on the cruiser ? How did you cut such nice pieces on the bench ? I've got a grinder but I can't get a straight cut.
What wheels are you using to grind? I like Roloc and 3M abrasive discs at 36 grit but my air compressor can't keep up with my die grinder ! Was wondering what you used and have found good . What size compressor do you have? I really need to upgrade or get electric die grinder.
2" Roloc Quick Change Disc Surface Conditioning Type R
Are you priming the back sides after? I see you are using weld thru primer. Do you just do that where the weld will be or places that will be covered after welding? I am repairing the same area. I have Pro line of paint for the outside but I don't know what I will primer the inside with.
Thanks for the help !
- Thread starter
- #143
Disclaimer: learning as I go so there are probably better ways to do things 
Without some of the bigger, quality parts that Kevin (Awl_TEQ) made up from my drawings and advice from guys on mud like Mike (miker) I would really be up a creek with no paddle, SOL, etc.
The large majority of cuts I do with a small Milwaukee hand grinder and cut-off disc. Most cuts are roughed in, tweaked in corners with hand-held hack-saw cuts and edges/fit finished with the side area of a cut-off disk. For some things I've used a Bosch jig/saber saw with fine blade and 18ga material backed up with plywood, but not often. For smaller detailed patches I've found nothing more accurate than a carefully done, hand-held hacksaw cut.
Weld beads are ground with flappers (I like Tiger brand discs) and with some "edge of cut-off wheel" finish-up work. I'd like to try the Roloc and 3M abrasive discs stuff but I don't have tools, air, etc.
I'm trying out carbide burrs in an electric die-grinder to finish-up tight areas like the ambulance door corners, etc.
I'm using the weld thru primer (3M stuff) on any welded area where 2 pieces of steel are sandwiched/lapp-jointed together. Then, if possible, after finish grinding, I push POR15 into any seam (which later will get seam sealer before final paint).
On the "back-side/underside" of welds I'm cleaning up the area/beads with a stainless hand brush, prepping and hand painting with POR15. If the beads don't show and the hammer/dolly work is minimum I'm not not grinding anything that is hidden.
I could really use another small grinder - I'm constantly changing from cut-off wheel to flapper and back again.
Without some of the bigger, quality parts that Kevin (Awl_TEQ) made up from my drawings and advice from guys on mud like Mike (miker) I would really be up a creek with no paddle, SOL, etc.The large majority of cuts I do with a small Milwaukee hand grinder and cut-off disc. Most cuts are roughed in, tweaked in corners with hand-held hack-saw cuts and edges/fit finished with the side area of a cut-off disk. For some things I've used a Bosch jig/saber saw with fine blade and 18ga material backed up with plywood, but not often. For smaller detailed patches I've found nothing more accurate than a carefully done, hand-held hacksaw cut.
Weld beads are ground with flappers (I like Tiger brand discs) and with some "edge of cut-off wheel" finish-up work. I'd like to try the Roloc and 3M abrasive discs stuff but I don't have tools, air, etc.
I'm trying out carbide burrs in an electric die-grinder to finish-up tight areas like the ambulance door corners, etc.I'm using the weld thru primer (3M stuff) on any welded area where 2 pieces of steel are sandwiched/lapp-jointed together. Then, if possible, after finish grinding, I push POR15 into any seam (which later will get seam sealer before final paint).
On the "back-side/underside" of welds I'm cleaning up the area/beads with a stainless hand brush, prepping and hand painting with POR15. If the beads don't show and the hammer/dolly work is minimum I'm not not grinding anything that is hidden.
I could really use another small grinder - I'm constantly changing from cut-off wheel to flapper and back again.
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This is a great thread, helps me a lot.
I am currently trying to get my '78 into shape.
Only problem is it was already taken appart by the PO and then glued and welded together again. I have no previous measurements, the only thing I am shure of is that the work that has been done was done with the wrong ones so I have to take it all appart again. Your drawings give me a lot of help.
Do you have the sizes and shape of the doorpoasrs on top of the rear sill?
Realy like your work
Regards,
Michael
I am currently trying to get my '78 into shape.
Only problem is it was already taken appart by the PO and then glued and welded together again. I have no previous measurements, the only thing I am shure of is that the work that has been done was done with the wrong ones so I have to take it all appart again. Your drawings give me a lot of help.
Do you have the sizes and shape of the doorpoasrs on top of the rear sill?
Realy like your work
Regards,
Michael
- Thread starter
- #145
Not sure what area you're asking for Michael? Mark up a rough sketch/photo of the area your worried about and I'll try to get some dims together for you.
This is a great thread, helps me a lot.
I am currently trying to get my '78 into shape.
Only problem is it was already taken appart by the PO and then glued and welded together again. I have no previous measurements, the only thing I am shure of is that the work that has been done was done with the wrong ones so I have to take it all appart again. Your drawings give me a lot of help.
Do you have the sizes and shape of the doorpoasrs on top of the rear sill?
Realy like your work
Regards,
Michael
Hello Gus,
Thanks for helping me with this.
The pillar in the picture is to low (about 20mm) and it needs to be modified to create the attachmentpoints for the hinges.
I would like to make new ones that resemble the original.
Do you have a drawing for these like you have on your sill?
Love your work so far, for someone who just started welding and fabricating you've got a very steep learning curve.
Regards,
Michael
Thanks for helping me with this.
The pillar in the picture is to low (about 20mm) and it needs to be modified to create the attachmentpoints for the hinges.
I would like to make new ones that resemble the original.
Do you have a drawing for these like you have on your sill?
Love your work so far, for someone who just started welding and fabricating you've got a very steep learning curve.
Regards,
Michael
- Thread starter
- #147
Take a look at the 3rd image in #126, and the drawing for small channels (item "B" on #111) based on what was stock on my 78 anyway. That 16 GA channel continues above the wheel cover. The 18 GA quarter wraps around and folds to the channel. So to form that area the base of the channel sits on the top of the sill, the vertical fold on the quarter tucks into the channel which welds to the wheel-well cover to form that corner. Look at the 3rd image in post #23 and you can see the door hinge plate - welded (above the wheel cover/fender) with floating nuts for the door hinge, etc.
Not sure what the PO has going on yours - looks like that "piller" is makeshift (like the floor?) and to get to somewhere around stock you might need to replace other panels, etc. As Texx once said in reference to my sill - "Knee bone's connected to the thigh bone...". --- good luck with everything ---
Not sure what the PO has going on yours - looks like that "piller" is makeshift (like the floor?) and to get to somewhere around stock you might need to replace other panels, etc. As Texx once said in reference to my sill - "Knee bone's connected to the thigh bone...".
--- good luck with everything ---
Thank you.
I know I have a lot of work to do before it can cruise the streets and the dirt.
What is the fun when it is all easy.
About the floor, the frame is all ready separated from the sill, not shure what to do with it.
I will start up a thread in a few weeks, feel free to give me some input along the way.
Keep up the good work,
I know I have a lot of work to do before it can cruise the streets and the dirt.
What is the fun when it is all easy.
About the floor, the frame is all ready separated from the sill, not shure what to do with it.
I will start up a thread in a few weeks, feel free to give me some input along the way.
Keep up the good work,
- Thread starter
- #149
And so it goes...
Minor update.
Lots of grinding and been trying to use hammer/dolly to get the metal patched areas ready for final prep work. Hard to tell from these images but I've been pretty pleased with the results. The MIG welds do seem somewhat "workable" after the fact. Still got some tapping around to do.
Minor update.
Lots of grinding and been trying to use hammer/dolly to get the metal patched areas ready for final prep work. Hard to tell from these images but I've been pretty pleased with the results. The MIG welds do seem somewhat "workable" after the fact. Still got some tapping around to do.
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- Thread starter
- #150
General body work leading to another trouble area at the front of the driver's quarter panel by the door. This area apparently took a minor hit when the PO had the rear fender-bender. Lots of rust around the inside rocker panel bracket support, etc.
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- Thread starter
- #151
More patch work, more stuff to fab - may just try to patch the rocker panel bracket.
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- Thread starter
- #152
More info for Kevin. Thinking of having a number of these made up - 2 images and drawing attached. Note: Updated bracket drawing to 16 GA on September 18, 2010.
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- Thread starter
- #153
patches...
rough rocker patches...
rough rocker patches...
Awl_TEQ
Supporting Vendor
great work as always Gus
- Thread starter
- #155
Homemade rocker brackets
Hacksaw/hammer/vise/file 16 GA replacement brackets for inside the rocker panel.
Kicked around patching the old brackets but they were pretty toasted and I don't have a sand blaster, etc. etc.
Hacksaw/hammer/vise/file
16 GA replacement brackets for inside the rocker panel. Kicked around patching the old brackets but they were pretty toasted and I don't have a sand blaster, etc. etc.
Nice! I'd love to see what you could do if you have a few more tools at your disposal. I'm sure it would be even more amazing. 
- Thread starter
- #157
Rocker bracket going back in with original nut/bolt
- Thread starter
- #158
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Inspiring work Gus!
twoturtlesracing
Slowwly but surely...
As always, thanks for the inspiration! Hope to copy-cat soon!
