Builds Brian894x4's GX470 Build Thread (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Feb 26, 2004
Threads
116
Messages
1,282
Location
Oregon
Website
www.brian894x4.com
The build finally begins. I was finally able to take the 2008 GX470 on a shake down run to the north Oregon Coast this past weekend. It was completely bone stock, but that’s about to change. After the short trip, I couldn’t be more happy with my purchase.

The plan to is to somewhat mimic and modernize my old 1995 FZJ80 build, but keeping in mind that the GX will be my daily driver unlike my old 80.

Over the next couple of weeks, I’ll be adding an aux electrical system to run my radios, aux ports, lights, etc and duel batteries. The sidesteps will be removed and replaced with Metaltech sliders. I’ll be sourcing or building a rear drawer system and adding a sleeping platform. I also have plans for a water tank and water system. I also plan to install a Metaltech goblin bumper and winch. Plus too many little things to mention in this introduction. But I'll detail out later as they happen.

As for tires/suspension, I’ve been thinking about this for months and I’ve concluded that I need to do tires first before suspension and because this will be a daily and will be running stock suspension, I will try to shoehorn 275/70-17 K02s using a set of FJ Cruiser 8 hole wheels I recently purchased on craigslist and do whatever cutting and pounding I need too.

As for suspension, I’m still not sure what direction I want to go. Due to garage clearances I need to keep the lift fairly mild, so probably only about 2" and probably OME all around or something similar.

Anyway, I’ll post progress pics of my mods, including all the many little things I have planned in this thread as the build progresses over the coming weeks and months.

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Not the biggest mod, but all I had time for today before work. Blacked out grill. I think green was meant to have black with crome accents. This is going to be my theme. Black wheels, etc.

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Very nice
 
I used your 80 series info website quite a few times for referencing...looking forward to seeing your GX progress.
 
Today's work...good bye side steps, good bye ugly hitch, hello new electrical junction box and Ham radio mount. Side steps to be replaced with Metal Tech sliders in the next few weeks and hitch will eventually be replaced with the SSO light hitch. Wheels and tires next week, hopefully.

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It’s always amazing how removing the running boards makes these trucks look so much more trail worthy. Looking good!

Any details on the junction box?
 
It’s always amazing how removing the running boards makes these trucks look so much more trail worthy. Looking good!

Any details on the junction box?

Thanks much, I need to cut the front mud flaps down more. A lot more once I try to install sliders. The black box is just a spare project box I had. Inside, will go relays to run the future lights and duel battery solenoid and a relay for switched power into the cab. The fuse box (bluesea product off of Amazon) mounted on top will fuse anything that needs power forward of the firewall...mostly lights and a spare compressor I have mounted in the engine bay.

I will have two more fuse/junction boxes in the car. One in the main cab area and one in the rear cargo.

The main cab fuse box is a split unit and will have constant power from the battery and switched power from the battery only when the ignition is on. The constant power will feed USB and power plugs in the cab and interior lighting. The switched power will feed my Ham radio and anything I don't want left on once the ignition is turned off. It will also feed the signal wires for my light switches so that all auxiliary lights will automatically turn off when the ignition is off.

The rear cargo area will have a single fuse box with constant power to power run USB/cig lighter plugs and interior lighting as well as a future water pump (will have a water tank) and my future main air compressor and tank. Also camp lighting, etc.

Right now all of this will be fed from the main and only battery but once the 2nd battery is installed, all auxiliary accessories will get power exclusively from the auxiliary battery. A three position switch in the cab will power the duel battery solenoid, with position 1 getting power from the main battery when the ignition is on (so the solenoid works pretty much automatically) and position 2 being off and position 3 getting power from the auxiliary battery, so the solenoid can work if either battery is dead.

That's my electrical plan in a nutshell.
 
I have looked at and read your website many times and years thinking of when I might in the future be able to build. I've acquired a 95 FZJ80, last year, for my son and I to build, he is now of driving age. I also just recently purchased a GX470 just as the one you have. I am very much looking forward to see what all you do. This will be my DD as well. This is also my actual first post to mud even though I have read many nights over the forums. Thanks to all that post info, it is appreciated.

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Thanks for the kind words!

So far this past weekend, I continued on the wiring project for everything. I used silicone wire that I sourced from amazon and I will never again ever, ever, ever use any other type of wire. It is so nice and easy to work with.

I deleted the useless ashtray and cigarette lighter and modified the panel to accept a switch box and build a sub panel next to it. I also added some red LED lights under the panel that light up the dark area on the center console. The LEDs are brightness adjustable via a rheostat switch on the subpanel and can be turned off also. The subpanel includes 4 USB ports 2.1 amps each from an RV wall USB panel.

The subpanel also includes my duel battery switch for when I install the 2nd battery in the coming weeks. The switch is set up so that when pushed to the left, the solenoid will be powered via the left (main) battery when the ignition in turned off and disconnect automatically when the ignition is turned off. Center position turns the solenoid off manually and the right position uses the auxiliary battery on the right side to power the solenoid in the event the main battery dies. Simple, easy, worked well in my old Land Cruiser.

The switch box was sourced from Amazon and took some cutting and trimming to fit, but works well now. From left to right, the switches will power the front LED light bar, front LED fog lights, rear strobe lights (for when we're parked on a remote road or logging trail, while conducting our historical research projects) and rear back LED lights. The two red switches are momentary switches. The top one powers two Hella horns I pulled off my old Subaru and the bottom one will unlock a electric security box in the rear.

I also wired in my Ham radio an FT-1900R under the dash and out of the way, with the antenna mounted on the fender. Not the most ideal set up, but I generally only use it for emergencies or when traveling in convoy.

Lastly, I've replaced all the interior and most exterior lights with LEDs and with the steps now gone I wired in some quick under body lights into the step light wiring that are nice to have when opening the door in dark parking lots or streets. I'll probably have to modify it again when the sliders go on soon.

Still have a lot more wiring to do to build relays and wire power into the rear cargo area.

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Where is your CDL switch and what is in its spot now?
 
Where is your CDL switch and what is in its spot now?
On the later model GXs, the CDL switch was relocated to the switch panel right of the steering wheel so they could put the Aux port on the center console to plug in your iphone or ipod or whatever into the factory radio system.
 
Finally got new shoes today. Now I feel like I can be part of the club. No lift yet, all stock suspension.

Tires are BFG KO2s 275/70-17s on 2012 FJ Cruiser 8 hole wheels. The wheels are slightly better offset and I was lucky enough to get them cheap on Craigslist. After much fender liner trimming I have zero rubbing and I couldn't be happier with the set up. However, a very mild lift is in my future. No more than 2" and possibly a bit less.

Still want to get sliders and working on getting a drawer system. Both are a bit illusive and everyone seems to be out of stock or super long lead times. I'm debating building my own sliders meanwhile.

Also picked up a cheapie Amazon light bar. Just something to get me by for now. Believe it or not, its mounted on magnets and that set up has worked just fine, thanks to it being curved and single row and not a ton of wind resistence.

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A few updates to the rear cargo area. I wired in power to the rear cargo area fuse block which will power everything from behind the front seats rearward. A fuse block in the engine compartment powers everything front seats forward.

So far I have a compressor wired up and now mounted inside the driver’s side storage compartment, where it fits absolutely perfectly, once the inside tray was removed. The compressor is fairly old and will eventually be replaced with a more modern one but it still works. I have it wired up to a Blazer C3050K wireless management box that allows me to turn the compressor on and off remotely.

Also have a rear emergency light bar mounted on the roof with magnets and also wired to the Blazer remote switch. I will use these lights the same as I did the ones on my old Land Cruiser 80. We do a lot of historical research of old remote areas, railroad, ghost towns in the woods and when parked on the side of remote roads, we often have low amp draw flashers on for safety reasons.

Rear reverse lights will be installed soon…still deciding on what I’ll go with and how I’ll mount them.

Wired in a 4 USB wall plug set up and will also wire in a cig lighter port and aux battery volt meter back here. Lastly, a dimmer switch will be installed to power several LED light strips as we’ll be using the rear to camp and sleep in after the ARB drawers are installed later this week.

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Awesome work. Very clean setup and the Blazer switch looks like a great way to handle the AC switching on and off.

Any pics or details of how you ran your wiring to the rear? And any under hood shots of the 2nd battery setup? I think I understand how you did the solenoid but any added info would be great!


(I don't mean to down the guys doing suspension mod posts, but I really appreciate the post that show various clean wiring setups.)
 
I don't have pics handy, but to run wires from the battery to the rear is extremely easy in the GX. I cut a small hole in the wiring harness plug that is on the mid level, far driver's side firewall. The wire can then run under the kick panel all the way to the back of the vehicle. On the GX if you pry up the kick and foot panel on the lower door sill, you will see a nice deep channel where other wires are already run which is perfect. I then continued up behind the rear cargo area side panel. Everything is fairly easy to remove to gain access.

The duel battery is not yet installed. I have an off grid engineering battery tray on order and I'm still deciding on what solenoid or battery management system and batteries to go with.
 
Added some ditch lights and lower DLR lights. Used the ditch light brackets from Rago Fabrication, which fit wonderfully and just has a trim a slight bit of plastic barely worth mentioning. Lights are from superbrightlights.com. So nothing super special or expensive. I can't say how great the output is yet.

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How did you run wiring for the forward light bar? Drill the roof with grommet?
 

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