ok guys...i've been working on these brakes for a couple of weeks now and still can't get a consistent pedal...i have replaced the front calipers, rear shoes, brake cylinders, turned the drums, e-brake cable and replaced the master cylinder...i bench bled the master cylinder and bled all four brakes...all the air seemed to be out of all the lines until, in a moment of desperation, i decided to bleed the proportioning valve...quite a few bubbles came out of the p-valve but still don't have good pedal...one other thing, i can hold the brake pedal down, start the car and the pedal goes to the floor...I can pump the brakes and get some pedal...i can really use your opinions and help...this brake problem is getting real old.
Brakes...argh!!!!!!! (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter thadl
- Start date
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Master cylinder toyota? Seems like a leak somewhere. MIke
I had the same issues before and it seems to me that the FJ62 brakes are weak. I adjusted the brake pedal and it helped a little but I'm looking to replace the whole entire front rotor and calipers soon.
Sounds like air in the system still
Every once in awhile bleeding the brakes is a pain in the butt. Frequently takes several times to get out all the air. Especially when you have replaced as much as the system as you have. Something that may help is to forget about the hose on the bleeder and switch to a rag. Lightly cover the bleeder and open it up with pressure on the pedal, air will feel and sound way different than fluid, don't have to crack it very far either. Close the bleeder before your helper lets off the pedal, and do each cylinder several times. And make sure the resovoir stays full.
I always start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder first, and finish up by bleeding the proportion valve last. This is the FSM order of things.
About the only thing left is your brake booster. Press the brake several times with the engine off, pedal should go down the same each time. Start the rig while holding the pedal, it should go down slightly.
Start the engine. Let it run for a minute or so. Shut it off and step on the brake pedal it should get higher each time you step on it. Booster is airtight
Shut off the engine while holding the brake, the pedal should not move for thirty seconds.
Thats just a quick way to check the booster from the FSM. But I think it just may be a frustrating amount of air in the system.
Tony
Every once in awhile bleeding the brakes is a pain in the butt. Frequently takes several times to get out all the air. Especially when you have replaced as much as the system as you have. Something that may help is to forget about the hose on the bleeder and switch to a rag. Lightly cover the bleeder and open it up with pressure on the pedal, air will feel and sound way different than fluid, don't have to crack it very far either. Close the bleeder before your helper lets off the pedal, and do each cylinder several times. And make sure the resovoir stays full.
I always start with the brake farthest from the master cylinder first, and finish up by bleeding the proportion valve last. This is the FSM order of things.
About the only thing left is your brake booster. Press the brake several times with the engine off, pedal should go down the same each time. Start the rig while holding the pedal, it should go down slightly.
Start the engine. Let it run for a minute or so. Shut it off and step on the brake pedal it should get higher each time you step on it. Booster is airtight
Shut off the engine while holding the brake, the pedal should not move for thirty seconds.
Thats just a quick way to check the booster from the FSM. But I think it just may be a frustrating amount of air in the system.
Tony
- Thread starter
- #5
Kynot62 said:
Tony. I have done everything you have suggested except for the rag method. I'll give it a try tomorrow am. I was told the booster can't be a factor in this situation, is that not true. Its been really frustrating and I just can't stand not being able to figure this out. I am truly at a loss. I've started from scratch 3 times now. Thought I'd try a fourth tomorrow after I deliver my boat to my daughter and son-in-law in Arkansas. Wife's gone until Sunday evening so I'll have a lot of time to work on it. Any others suggestions?
I would do the booster checks just to see if it's functioning properly. Not that it's the problem but if it's not working maybe it is, can't say for sure. And do take a good look for leaks like Mike mentioned. Double check the tightness of all brake lines as well.
Are you close to any of the cruiser clubs, like Razorback Land Cruisers? Sometimes helps to have a fellow cruiser head nearby to help. You might check the clubhouse section to see if any of them are nearby.
When you are bleeding the brakes does pumping the pedal build up pressure? Sometimes it takes quite a bit of pumping to build up pressure just to bleed them. If it won't build pressure with pumping with the rig off sounds like the master may have air. It's also possible the master is bad. But the last rebuilt master I bought has been just fine. I once got a cracked rebuilt caliper, shiny and all but cracked none the less
Did you manually tighten up the rear shoes when you installed them? Possibly the self adjusters aren't working. If they aren't working and the adjustment isn't correct all the fluid may be used up moving the cylinders. You might tighten up the shoes with a screwdriver through the slot in the backing plate. Just tighten them up until they lightly contact the drums, you will hear it.
If all else fails a mechanic you know and trust may be a good option. But baring any mechanical problem it still sounds like air in the system.
Tony
Are you close to any of the cruiser clubs, like Razorback Land Cruisers? Sometimes helps to have a fellow cruiser head nearby to help. You might check the clubhouse section to see if any of them are nearby.
When you are bleeding the brakes does pumping the pedal build up pressure? Sometimes it takes quite a bit of pumping to build up pressure just to bleed them. If it won't build pressure with pumping with the rig off sounds like the master may have air. It's also possible the master is bad. But the last rebuilt master I bought has been just fine. I once got a cracked rebuilt caliper, shiny and all but cracked none the less
Did you manually tighten up the rear shoes when you installed them? Possibly the self adjusters aren't working. If they aren't working and the adjustment isn't correct all the fluid may be used up moving the cylinders. You might tighten up the shoes with a screwdriver through the slot in the backing plate. Just tighten them up until they lightly contact the drums, you will hear it.
If all else fails a mechanic you know and trust may be a good option. But baring any mechanical problem it still sounds like air in the system.
Tony
How are you bleeding the brakes?
Stubborn air in the system might be cured by the two person, crack the line under pedal pressure method where 1 person bleeding methods fail. Also, work your way from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel systematically.
Good luck
Stubborn air in the system might be cured by the two person, crack the line under pedal pressure method where 1 person bleeding methods fail. Also, work your way from the farthest wheel to the closest wheel systematically.
Good luck
sounds crazy but check you front calipers...make sure the bleeder is on the TOP. The calipers will fit on either side but will not bleed with bleeder on bottom. Shot in the dark....
Did you ever figure it out?
Speed bleeders or this will make quick work of it.
Used it on my rx7 and evo. Makes life easy, especially if your going to be doing this a couple times a year.
hooks to an air compressor, makes long lines or big calipers easy. Or just get a syphon pump.
Just be careful, it can empty a reservoir pretty fast forcing you to start over
Used it on my rx7 and evo. Makes life easy, especially if your going to be doing this a couple times a year.
hooks to an air compressor, makes long lines or big calipers easy. Or just get a syphon pump.
Just be careful, it can empty a reservoir pretty fast forcing you to start over
Did you adjust the pedal height? Or the master cylinder on the brake booster? MIke
- Thread starter
- #12
Hey guys...didn't get a chance to work on the truck this weekend, we went to see my daughter in arkansas, we are having our first grandchild the first of july and we needed a fix...hope to work on it this week...no i haven't got the brakes figured out yet, i needed a brake, no pun intended, before i kicked the truck out of frustration and broke my foot.
where do i get speed bleeders and why, if they are that great, doesn't everyone use them? Is there a down side to them, ie they leak, etc?
M Hanson...I did not adjust the pedal height, do i need to after all the work i did, how do i adjust it...not sure what you mean by "or the master cylinder on the brake booster"...I didn't touch the bb other than connecting the mc and i didn't do any adjusting to the bb push rod since all i did was a swap and i figured, right or wrong, that everything was so close to being the same i really didn't need too...used the same mc as oem uses.
where do i get speed bleeders and why, if they are that great, doesn't everyone use them? Is there a down side to them, ie they leak, etc?
M Hanson...I did not adjust the pedal height, do i need to after all the work i did, how do i adjust it...not sure what you mean by "or the master cylinder on the brake booster"...I didn't touch the bb other than connecting the mc and i didn't do any adjusting to the bb push rod since all i did was a swap and i figured, right or wrong, that everything was so close to being the same i really didn't need too...used the same mc as oem uses.
any conclusion?
So any solution. I am guessing I was right...calipers on wrong side and bleeders on bottom.,.....??? I will admit.... I did do this and it stumped me for a bit. LOL..
- Thread starter
- #15
still haven't had a chance to get back to the brake issue, hope to this week...I'll post an update when I do...did take a look at the calipers and they are installed correctly...I feel like I need to take a look at the brake lines to check for leaks but I don't have any leaks, at least none that are creating any puddles.
to test for a leak i usually pump and get a good pedal..them push hard with both feet. weak spot should show wetness.
Any solutions here?
I wouldn't hold my breath... OP hasn't been logged on for over a year and this thread is almost 10 years old.
Having similar brake issues? The two things they haven't touched are the brake hoses & internal condition of the LSPV.
Having similar brake issues? The two things they haven't touched are the brake hoses & internal condition of the LSPV.
I have to double pump my brake.
I’ve replaced everything and upgraded the MC to the 80 series.
ive most recently adjusted the rear drums by working the mechanism from the rear little panel which worked a treat, however i think it reached its maximum adjustment.
Nonetheless this worked for about an hour, after using the handbrake when I parked it, I heard and felt a scrap sound, and then noticed the handbrake and brakes were back to how they were before. (Requiring a double pump to work)
ive bled the brakes a dozen times. I have no leaks, new rear shoes and pistons.
New print pads, new MC (which I thought would have helped it )
blahhhh
I’ve replaced everything and upgraded the MC to the 80 series.
ive most recently adjusted the rear drums by working the mechanism from the rear little panel which worked a treat, however i think it reached its maximum adjustment.
Nonetheless this worked for about an hour, after using the handbrake when I parked it, I heard and felt a scrap sound, and then noticed the handbrake and brakes were back to how they were before. (Requiring a double pump to work)
ive bled the brakes a dozen times. I have no leaks, new rear shoes and pistons.
New print pads, new MC (which I thought would have helped it )
blahhhh
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