5.3 swap - have different questions - project starting now... (1 Viewer)

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Jun 4, 2004
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Denison, Texas
There are several threads regarding the 5.3 swap and I think I've read them all, but I have a few other questions.

My 73 FJ is currently setup and has been running with a 350 SBC connected to a SM465 4-speed, an adapter plate and the Factory Toyota Txfer case, making a stock driveline length - I'd like to keep it like that. It also has an FJ60 rear axle assembly with (front & rear 3.73 diff) and fine-spline axles).

Project: 5.3 - SM465
I have a low-mileage (2002) 5.3L Vortec out of a pickup truck.
2002 and older trucks use a throttle cable for the accelerator pedal and not the fly-by-wire.

I want to mate the 5.3 up to the SM465 and was told by reliable sources that all bolt holes between the bellhousing and engine block line up perfectly with the exception of (ONLY) 2 holes that need to be drilled and tapped...And some people are actually running their rig without these extra bolts (not my plan...but it will confirm the rumor if true).

My questions:
1.) Does the SM465 bellhousing bolt up to the 5.3 block ?

2.) Will the existing SBC Motor Mounts bolt up to the 5.3 with an adapter plate (which I already have) or is the location on the frame different ?

3.) Will the stock 5.3 exhaust manifolds clear the frame rail ?
Will they just be tight or is it mandatory to install headers ?

4.) Wiring Harness - When removing the wiring Harness and computer from the donor vehicle, are there any wires that pass thru the firewall into the cab of the truck that are (MANDATORY) or are they just an added bonus- for example---check engine light, and ECM connector to check codes, etc... ?
--> If the harness is cut at the firewall (but 100% complete under the hood) will that be sufficient to start the engine ?

5.) Will an off-the-shelf (high performance) electric fuel pump be enough to supply the injectors or will I need something special ?


I'll be sure to document the swap with photos and notes...
Thanks for any info
:cheers:
 
Check this web site out they publish a book that will address alot of your concerns about TBI/TPI conversions but best about efi on fuel supply issues. They even have part # in the book for weld in 02 sensor. Painless and Howell Engine Developments Inc. - Home make wiring harness that hook right up to the engine and you supply a hot lead, ground, computer and the engine is wired. You could run mechanical gauges to save wiring issues. Small block chevy should all be the same 283,327,350 and so on. On my 75 I took the headers off and ran stock chevy manifolds with 3 inch ehaust. Made for alot less heat in engine compartment. Hope this is helpfull.
 
The passengers side exhaust manifold would not fit correctly in my 69 FJ40, I used a manifold off a 2000 Camero or Firebird (can't remember which one). I used the stock 5.3l manifold on the drivers side.

There's a vortec Land Cruiser user group on yahoo. They can also help with your questions.
 
5.3 wiring harness

Ok, I got the engine this afternoon and the guy did a clean job at pulling it out of the truck with the (1) exception.

All of the wiring was left connected to the engine, computer and under-hood fuse panel with no cut or broken connectors (good) -

He cut the thick loom of wires going into the cab of the truck under the dash and pulle them out through the firewall (bad).

Question:
Is the wiring harness ruined or can it be salvaged ?
Is there any part of the wiring harness needed (under the dash) in order to make it run ?

Aside from reprogramming the ECM (to remove the anti-theft mechanism) is there anything else that would prevent this 5.3 from starting ?

Would it be better to just throw away $600 and buy a harness/ECM from painless or is mine going to work ?

THanks
 
Thanks Centermass!
I just done bought me that sumbitch manual. I HOPE TO JEEZUS that it will instruct me on how to wire in my 350.....
 
5.3 wiring

Exactly - All of the wires from the engine to the ECM and Fuse box are uncut.
The only wires that were cut were inside the cab and he pulled the wires out of the cab through the firewall. Sounds like I'm ok.
I'll pay the money and get the service manual -

Where did those headers come from ? :hmm:

Thanks
 
The only wires that should have to leave your computor and enter the passenger compartment are wire to check engine light, wire to 12 volt ignition, and wires to diagnostic port. Maybe I look at this too simplistic, but my mind says :
(a) you need all wires between ECU and engine.
(b) you need 6 wires that go from ECU to your Toyota:
1. to battery (12v 24 hours per day)
2. to ignition switch (12v when engine on)
3. to ground (ground onto engine)
4. to check engine light
5. to fuel pump
6. to Vehicle Speed Sensor
(c) all other wires are excess baggage.
(d) I see no reason why you'd need the GM fuse block?
 
You tell him Jim!
 
...snip...I want to mate the 5.3 up to the SM465 and was told by reliable sources that all bolt holes between the bellhousing and engine block line up perfectly with the exception of (ONLY) 2 holes that need to be drilled and tapped...And some people are actually running their rig without these extra bolts (not my plan...but it will confirm the rumor if true)...
:cheers:

Timely thread. I'm starting a very similar swap; only using an sm420 instead.

I should mention one thing that I've learned. The one bolt hole that is not available on the 5.3L block should NOT be drilled and tapped. The block is thin in that area as compared to other SBCs and you will drill into the water jacket if you try to tap it. There is no strength issues omitting this one bolt from the bellhousing. Just bolt up the studs that are available.
 
Alex e
I hope the manual is helpfull should give you lots of info to consider/ options. They do a good job of explaing what you need for fuel delivery and return to the tank. I have a couple buddies that have done Fuel injection conversions and have used the after market wiring harness. It saved them from buy the engines wiring harness manuel and they sure come out clean.
Good luck
 
I Read the manual and whoever needs it next, I will send it along for free.....not worth $29 but it elaborates on what I already knew from Reading Downey's FREE manual that comes with their adapters, etc. so I guess I'm clearer....but....anyone need it?

I really need more wiring expertise than the book covers, which is, nada unfortunately. What would be really helpful is something general about wiring chevy engines, what connection goes to what, how to connect the ignition, etc.
 
a little off track but recently my friend just put a Buick motor in his 74FJ 40 an it seemed to pretty easy, once he got it running an sounding right.
good luck an it should work out an run strong, thats a nice motor
 
5.3L (LS1) exhaust clearance...

It's all connected up, bolted in and looks good.

Did you have a problem with the driver's side exhaust hitting the clutch slave cylinder near the collector ?

The passenger side comes close to frame rail and drive shaft, but will clear without problems under any condition I could imagine.....

Thanks
Mike
 
Hey Logic did you wire it up? What connections did you make?
 
My wires are all labeled and I understand what to do with the wires coming from my engine labeled VSS, MIL, +/- for fuel pump and ECM/ECM fuse block, oil sender, but how do I hook up the ignition wires coming from the engine? Do they splice into 2F ignition harness or what? All the other connections that run to the ECM from engine are intact and have been made already as my engine and harness is from a 60 series V8 swap. I got the whole thing. I literally need to hook up like 6 wires, just as Downey says I do, coming from the engine but I need someone to tell me, "Connect A to B, then B to C........" I have yet to find anyone who will walk me through it, or point me to a guide. Hell, I will even follow a post on putting a TBI engine into a 40....just show me where.
 
Hey Logic did you wire it up? What connections did you make?


I'm not wiring yet, but I will start and finish this Tuesday.

Although I have a harness from a donor truck, I'm buying an LS1 harness that is already stripped down, clean, and ready to go.

Before removing the old harness, I labeled most of the critical connectors for sensors, AC compressor, Starter, etc.. in case I need them later on.

My understanding is that the thick-guage purple wire (coming from the Starter) connects to your "ignition wire" to actually engage the starter.

I'm documenting and photographing each step of the swap.

Thanks
Mike
 
Not trying to hijack, but let me get this straight, so i can use a 5.3 gm motor with a sm465 without the rediculously expensive adapter that AA sells for all of the clutch components and what not? And the only draw back is one bolt on the factory sm465 bellhousing that WON'T line up? But otherwise all will work correctly? Is all of this right or wrong?

I'm currently about to start a fj55 project and have a ford 351w efi i was plannin on using. But i have a line on a low milage 5.3 for $700. Figured it's a pretty good deal. Thanks guys.
 
Not trying to hijack, but let me get this straight, so i can use a 5.3 gm motor with a sm465 without the rediculously expensive adapter that AA sells for all of the clutch components and what not? And the only draw back is one bolt on the factory sm465 bellhousing that WON'T line up? But otherwise all will work correctly? Is all of this right or wrong?

I'm currently about to start a fj55 project and have a ford 351w efi i was plannin on using. But i have a line on a low milage 5.3 for $700. Figured it's a pretty good deal. Thanks guys.
I'm putting together an install overview of this project as wel speak...and I'm more than half way finished...Should be firing it up tomorrow when the new harness comes in.

YES - The 5.3L AND 6.0L Chevrolet (LS1) or Vortech (whatever you want to call it, will bolt up to the SM465 bellhousing. The engine I found (locally) was from a totaled 2002 pickup truck.

The bellhousing bolts up without an adapter, there are no issues with the starter either. The overall dimensions of the engine fit into the FJ40 very good. No problems with the front drive shaft. Motor mounts can be fabricated easily.

You will need to buy a flywheel from JEGS/Summit for a Manual shift 5.3 or 6.0 - Chevy 350 will NOT work.

I bought mine from JEGS ($200 cheaper than Chevy house) and it came with a dual bolt pattern for the pressure plate (SAE and Metric threads)

Hell....the throttle cable on the new 5.3 snapped into the firewall perfectly and the cable length fits the accelerator pedal like a charm.

Driver's side exhaust is a challenge but I have a few options...

If you haven't already converted to a Saginaw PS, you will need to.
The OEM steering gearbox location near the firewall has to go.

More info to come - but it does bolt up the old SM465 just like a SBC.

Mike
 

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