Builds 1st FJ40, '76 - SMOKEY - Puttin’ her Back Together (1 Viewer)

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Also got the new tires on the powder coated steelies! Now I just need the frame back from PC.

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Looking good man! I'm dying to get back to mine. My new carb should be here just in time for me to leave the country for 3 weeks :bang:

Keep it up. I'm living vicariously through you and Super Buick Guy right now!
 
Received two rear quarter panels from CCOT. Good quality, fair price - about $160 each IIRC. Took about 4 weeks to get them, as they make them to order.

My question is - where should I cut the old panels to keep the cleanest and best line for welding them back into place?

Or do I need to cut the old one at all - just remove the whole thing?

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ick, long-butt-weld

are the fenders made to go over the top of the current fender? if not get one of these
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on one side is a hole punch, on the other it makes a step or flange in the metal. you cut the fender so it overlaps, punch holes on the other part then plug weld it on. The only downside (and it's one for this one) is you can see the work on the inside and it looks not-so-nice. On the outside, once you make the step, weld the holes then use fiberglass-reinforced filler in the space between - looks like nothing ever happened and is a permanent repair.

With that said....

Were it me, I'd cut and replace the pieces that need to be replaced. If you do the entire fender, you have an entire fender of heat distortion to cope with...
 
This...

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ick, long-butt-weld

are the fenders made to go over the top of the current fender? if not get one of these

on one side is a hole punch, on the other it makes a step or flange in the metal. you cut the fender so it overlaps, punch holes on the other part then plug weld it on. The only downside (and it's one for this one) is you can see the work on the inside and it looks not-so-nice. On the outside, once you make the step, weld the holes then use fiberglass-reinforced filler in the space between - looks like nothing ever happened and is a permanent repair.

With that said....

Were it me, I'd cut and replace the pieces that need to be replaced. If you do the entire fender, you have an entire fender of heat distortion to cope with...

Ok what is that called?

Also, the left side might can just patch, but the right side is s***e. Look at it.

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Rainman - I see that the whole panel is removed, but where did they cut it from the top?
 
Do what's in Rainman's picture. Remove the whole fender and replace with new. This way, the only seams are the ones that look factory. This will yield the straightest fenders in the end.

I was very careful with each of my patches, but you can still find repairs. If I needed bigger patches, I'd have purchased panels and replaced the whole thing.
 
Northern Industrial Air Punch and Flange Tool | Air Punch Rivet Tools| Northern Tool + Equipment

air flange and punch tool.... they sell them at Harbor Freight as well. I bought mine before there was a HF - but it's quality is about the same and it has lasted quite well.

With that said, I'd do a vertical butt weld across that (cut just the damage off then have a much shorter weld)...

Do what's in Rainman's picture. Remove the whole fender and replace with new. This way, the only seams are the ones that look factory. This will yield the straightest fenders in the end.

I was very careful with each of my patches, but you can still find repairs. If I needed bigger patches, I'd have purchased panels and replaced the whole thing.


Yes, I'm going to see if I can keep some of the panels, but I'm highly inclined to replace the entire right panel, especially since the panel was clearly crushed and hammered back out at some point.



I am sure you have seen this already, but step-by-step pictures on CCOT website:

Body Panel Installation

Make sure to brace, brace, brace before cutting away old fender!

No, had not seen that. Thanks. And bracing, yes, I'll brace like I did in the front.
 
Went and rented a storage unit yesterday. Sigh. $189 per month for a 10x10 conditioned space. Unfortunately, everything in Nashville is at 99% occupancy, so getting a cheaper price or an unconditioned space was not available.

I now have:
- Garage 30' x 25'
- 12' x 20' storage shed
- 20' x 40' storage container (left over from recent construction that I'm hijacking space in)
- and a 10' x 10' storage unit

to hold the crap for 1 truck.

Plus, I have a second FJ40 in my driveway on a trailer for a few weeks to get a seat bracket welded so it is drivable. Rainey has been doing work on this one for me.

So, I'm going to empty out the garage as much as I can to the new 10 x 10 to get room to move around and do the work on SMOKEY. I've got to get body panels done and get the body to paint.

I had a brilliant idea to give the body guy all the small panels and let him get paint on those. Hood, doors, rear doors, top, fenders, etc. That will get him going and get those parts out of the way. Calling him today to see what he thinks.

Wish me luck.
 
I have a good friend who owns a mechanic's shop - he's my overflow space. I spend plenty of money having him work on stuff, and he's quite nice and will let me leave the occasional car at his place for months... his trigger is fun-builds. I left my Land Rover D2 diesel conversion at his shop for months - and he was fine with it, but leave my TDI Jetta there and you'd think I'd asked to sleep with his daughter...
 
Yup - garage, basement, and parents' garage here...
 
Garage, basement, and driveway here. Nothing is for free, this prime real estate cost me a complete kitchen remodel. Our new oven, errr range, cost more than my first cruiser and the tile cost as much as my paint job. A 10x10 would have been cheaper.
 
Goodness....just pushed through the whole thread....and loved every minute of it. Learned a ton. Hope I don't forget it all. Thanks for documenting.

If that had been my 40, I would have put on a trollhole carb, new tires, all new fluids, fixed the starter wiring, and driven the thing for a while.

Still adding up costs?

Whats your Daily driver? Just curious.

And geez....$189/month for a 10x10?! I'm in the wrong business.

What size tires? Why not black wall out on them? Makes for a cleaner, classic look, IMO.
 
Hi VV
Your thread puts a smile on my face and for that I say thank you.
The princess must be happy you are keeping your work shop neat and tidy and moving your overflow into the 10 x 10.
Wife's tend to like neat and tidy.

For us on the other side of the world what is conditioned storage as to non conditioned ?

Now my build is finished I would have thought that spare space would be plentiful.
How I was wrong as the 20 foot container is now full of useable spare parts.
Work shop space is at a premium with my workers now complaining if I park the Forty Series for a day of tinkering.
THEN
The motor mechanic in the next shop moved out.
Sweet talking , chocolate, and dinners were not enough to sway Nat in renting the 15 x 10 meter shop.
Then a stroke of Genius. Nat do you want to come to China? And in the same sentence let's rent the mechanics shop.
Me China Oh .
The mechanics shop did not get a mention .
I got the lease signed in record time. I now have a 150 square meter man cave.
The way to go.
A couple of photos of your shop would be nice.
Cheers Peter




...via IH8MUD app
 
I know your pain. I have land cruiser parts in 4 different buildings at various locations.
Yup - garage, basement, and parents' garage here...
Garage, basement, and driveway here. Nothing is for free, this prime real estate cost me a complete kitchen remodel. Our new oven, errr range, cost more than my first cruiser and the tile cost as much as my paint job. A 10x10 would have been cheaper.
happy wife, happy life.... there are costs.

So I have you all beat still: garage, shed, 10x40' shipping container, 10x10' (paid) storage, on a trailer in the driveway, and at my buddy Rainman's house.

EDIT: oh, and at the moment, at the powder coater's and at another sand blaster's shop. I need a chart to keep up with it all (hence the real reason I document here - and you thought it was just for entertainment!)

Plus, and it has cost me a new pool house, and is about to cost me a separate shop building (one could only hope, right?).
 
Goodness....just pushed through the whole thread....and loved every minute of it. Learned a ton. Hope I don't forget it all. Thanks for documenting.

If that had been my 40, I would have put on a trollhole carb, new tires, all new fluids, fixed the starter wiring, and driven the thing for a while.

Still adding up costs?

Whats your Daily driver? Just curious.

And geez....$189/month for a 10x10?! I'm in the wrong business.

What size tires? Why not black wall out on them? Makes for a cleaner, classic look, IMO.

OneManArmy
Yes, but I'm glad I've done this, because I keep learning new skills. Not perfecting but learning. It's the journey, not the destination!

My DD is an Acura MDX. 2011. Remember - I wrecked the old one on the way to buy SMOKEY?

Tires - 33x10.5x15. I mounted white letters out by answering the question too quickly when asked at the tire place. Might be a mistake.

Can't believe you tried to read the entire thread. You must have broken a leg or something. Thanks for saying it helped. It's all been done before by better men than myself (and a few women).
 

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