1kzte no start (1 Viewer)

[KZJ95Beast]

Hey guys, I have a kzj95 series prado with the 1kzte. Bought the vehicle with an issue where it's slow from idle to 2000rpm and after that it shoots off. I drove another prado and it doesn't feel like that. It had an occasional stuttering while driving and after a week it just won't start.

Before the issue with not starting, I changed turbo, tps, injector pump, crank sensor, injectors, glow plugs and glow plug relay, return line rail, injector lines to be safe and no results. I want to change the map sensor as mines has some melting on the area of the vacuum line port but I want to get the vehicle started once again.

Ecu was repaired but the guy like he screwed it up. Currently awaiting on a new ecu I ordered to trouble shoot more. Today I tried an ecu from a working same model prado and nothing. We tried my ecu on it and didn't start that vehicle. So I know my ecu was destroyed by a lame repair guy.

Any ideas what can cause it not to start? There tester lights up on both wires to the spill valve with any ecu connected. If run a direct current to the spill valve the van will start but rev out high for itself.

Thanks in advanced

 

[KiwiBogan]

Map sensor is certainly worth a look. The fact it's melted is a bit worrying!

Maybe check your intake temperature sensor too. Give it a clean with some MAF sensor cleaner spray.

Meticulously go over the wiring to your sensors and look for splits in the shielding, particularly around the actual plug. Engine vibrations or rough mechanics can bend/break these aging sensitive wire's and sometimes it's hard to see the wire has broken. It looks intact but when you look closely, you see a split in the shielding and the wires inside have started to break and maybe only a few strands or wire left creating the connection. This results in a flakey connection that intermittently doesn't work. Three particular connections/wires I would be looking at are: TPS, TCV and AIT sensor connectors/wiring. I've had to repair wiring and replace connectors on all 3 of these.

Seems to be a few guys having EGR related issues on these engines too which is worth considering. I don't have EGR on mine thankfully but I've worked with them before and have some idea of what's going on. Easiest way to check for blockages is to take your intercooler off the top (or crossover pipe) and look down the throttle body with a torch. If you see excessive caked on soot blocking the intake manifold, you can safely assume the EGR is gonna be choked up and need servicing.

That's all I can think of just now. Hope this helps!

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Awaiting on a new ecu as this ecu is not starting another prado. However that working prados ecu is not starting this one.

Also the spill valve I'm getting two current readings from both wires. However if I disconnect the red wire, the blue gets not current until I reconnect the red wire back to the spill valve jack. Wierd. Someone said one is supposed to be a ground signal and the other supposed to be 6volts. Don't have a multimeter as mines stopped working to test it

 

[KiwiBogan]

Awaiting on a new ecu as this ecu is not starting another prado. However that working prados ecu is not starting this one.

Also the spill valve I'm getting two current readings from both wires. However if I disconnect the red wire, the blue gets not current until I reconnect the red wire back to the spill valve jack. Wierd. Someone said one is supposed to be a ground signal and the other supposed to be 6volts. Don't have a multimeter as mines stopped working to test it

Re the spill valve, the voltage should be anywhere from 9v to 14v from memory. Mine was reading about 11-12v. One wire is the earth. It is safe to test the SCV using a car battery. This is how I fixed my cold start issues a couple of years back. Applied 12v +/- from a car battery and cycled the SCV on/off lots of times in quick succession to "loosen up" the solenoid in the SCV. At least this is what I assume it was doing. Did the trick and my old injector pump has run like new ever since with 400k on it

Re the ECU, it's possible the car won't start with another ECU due to the immobilizer? I can't remember if the ECU controls this or their is a separate immobilizer control unit in the middle of the dash somewhere?

Maybe try using the key from the donor car as well so it matches the immobilizer and see if that starts? Just spit balling here....

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Our vehicles are Jdm with no immobilizer. I would need to figure out why there's two positive voltages coming off both wires to the spill valve but have to wait on new ecu as this old one was repaired by a fool who damaged the board

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Got new ecu and still same issue. It also seems there's a current loss somewhere....the BATT wire on the ecu is getting 4.7.....when I use a 12 volt from a relay direct the relays click on etc and the van starts but cuts off after 1-2 seconds.....it'll keep doing that.

Anyone have an idea what might be the issue?

 

[KiwiBogan]

You really need to source and go through a wiring diagram at this stage. First thing that comes to mind in terms of low voltage is a bad earth somewhere. Follow the wiring from the battery to the ignition to the starter motor. Glow plugs. Check the earth leads are connected and in good condition (battery earth to chassis, battery earth to engine block, I think there's one from the starter motor to engine block also? I'll double check this on my car when I got a minute today). Check the wiring at the ignition barrel, make sure that hasn't been messed with or damaged. Inspect thoroughly all around the engine fuse board. Inspect for damaged or poorly repaired wires throughout the engine bay and around the ECU. Try and pull some engine codes if possible!

RE 2 x positive at the SCV, have any of the wires close to the ECU been cut and re soldered? Have they been mixed up by accident? How are you measuring this? Removing the plug and measuring the two terminals at the plug while cranking?

Edit: I can't see properly where the starter motor side earth strap comes from but mine is attached to one of the bolts that attaches the transmission to the engine. So there should be at least 3 big earth straps around your engine. Make sure they're all attached with good contacts.

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Some progress, the earth's are all good. The ecu is getting proper voltage now, a 15amp fuse was blown on the engine bay compartment as well as the glow plug 80amp fuse. However, the vehicle will start and cut off after 1-2 seconds. Won't start back if I try turning the key again. However if I turn the ignition all the way off and then try again, it will start and cut off same way.

Also, the spill valve red wire on the ecu is getting proper voltage, and the earth's coming off the ecu is getting earth properly as tested with the meter.

Only strange thing is that im seeing other topics state the spill valve has an earth and the other wire voltage. Im getting voltage off both wires, however if you cut the red wire, the blue will no longer has current. So im not sure why is there a circulation of voltage from one wire around the spill valve to the other wire. Possible bad or shorting spill valve?

The ECD relay in the engine compartment, if I start and it cuts off, I just pull that out and plug back in and it starts again and cuts off. However I jumped a wire while measuring voltage and the voltage is not dropping. Still cuts off though, so there's something else cutting the vehicle off.

This vehicle does not have a key fob or any key ignition thingy to say there's an immobilizer. It's just a normal metal key. But it's acting as if there's a security shutting the vehicle down.

I'm waiting on someone to drop a new instrument cluster for me today, as my cluster had a burn behind it and I believe that's the illumination area for check light. Currently I'm not seeing any check light on the dash at all.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Some progress, the earth's are all good. The ecu is getting proper voltage now, a 15amp fuse was blown on the engine bay compartment as well as the glow plug 80amp fuse. However, the vehicle will start and cut off after 1-2 seconds. Won't start back if I try turning the key again. However if I turn the ignition all the way off and then try again, it will start and cut off same way.

Also, the spill valve red wire on the ecu is getting proper voltage, and the earth's coming off the ecu is getting earth properly as tested with the meter.

Only strange thing is that im seeing other topics state the spill valve has an earth and the other wire voltage. Im getting voltage off both wires, however if you cut the red wire, the blue will no longer has current. So im not sure why is there a circulation of voltage from one wire around the spill valve to the other wire. Possible bad or shorting spill valve?

The ECD relay in the engine compartment, if I start and it cuts off, I just pull that out and plug back in and it starts again and cuts off. However I jumped a wire while measuring voltage and the voltage is not dropping. Still cuts off though, so there's something else cutting the vehicle off.

This vehicle does not have a key fob or any key ignition thingy to say there's an immobilizer. It's just a normal metal key. But it's acting as if there's a security shutting the vehicle down.

I'm waiting on someone to drop a new instrument cluster for me today, as my cluster had a burn behind it and I believe that's the illumination area for check light. Currently I'm not seeing any check light on the dash at all.

Great news! Ok, so if the glow plug fuse has blown, I would presume the glow plugs or at least one or two of them are faulty. I would replace them all immediately, taking extra care during removal not to knock the tip of the glow plugs on the side of the hole on the way out. Don't just replace the faulty ones. The tips become brittle over time and can break off. I notice even in warm weather their is a black and white difference in starting if I don't use the glow plugs to start. from a cold start: With a 10 second glow, the engine starts in half a turn with little to no smoke. Without no glow, the engine will crank for ages and often won't ignite. If I only glow them for say 3 seconds, the engine starts in a couple of turns but with a puff of smoke. (this is on a newly rebuilt engine with quite low km injectors, glow plugs and an old but great working injector pump).

RE the SCV, I just did some diving through some old documents I've got save in my Dropbox on the Denso injection pumps.

So in the Ignition on, engine off state - The SCV is energized i.e. "closed" state. Once the engine is running, the ECU uses the Speed Sensor to determine the rate at which it "cuts" the voltage (on the return I guess) in quick pulses. So in other words, both wires to the SCV should be reading the same voltage as neither of them are an "earth" as such. The "earthing" happens back at the ECU by the looks of it on the return wire. *note it's been a couple of years since I tested but from memory, my SCV was getting about 10.4v from the ECU when everything was healthy.

So measuring both SCV wires, I would expect to read a consistent voltage in the "ignition on/engine off" state, as they're both on the same "closed" circuit. And a variable or jumping voltage in the "engine on" state as your multimeter struggles to keep up with the constant on/off state of the SCV, if you are intercepting the wires but the SCV is connected. If you're measuring at the plug, I would expect 1 pin (multimeter earth to chassis) to be giving a constant voltage anywhere from about 10v to 14v, and the other pin giving 0v.

Have a read through this and see if you are coming to the same conclusion...

Denso ECD V3 Repair - Denso-ECD-V3-Repair.pdf - https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fi/ugokw03p5amk7fs3aak5m/Denso-ECD-V3-Repair.pdf?rlkey=lojjgijlh4419y13ryrlj1w7y&dl=0

 

[KiwiBogan]

This might be of interest too but the problem was the ECU in this instance, which you're proved is not the case with you. One guy in this chat mentions the SCV can be faulty even if it tests OK. They're an expensive item to replace if they aren't faulty which is annoying. That document I shared above shows the resistances for testing the SCV. Maybe a sure fire test would be to just loosen off the injector lines at the injectors and turn the motor over. If all 4 are spitting out diesel, you can probably presume the SCV is fine and look to other causes.

1KZ-TE Fuel Starvation / Spill Control Valve

I'd be looking behind the steering wheel for a chaffed wire .

www.landcruiserclub.net

 

[KZJ95Beast]

I'll read up on the document.

We changed the instrument panel so we can do diagnostic with the check light.

Im getting codes 32 and code 39

Today I got the engine speed sensor that's on top the pump and replaced it as well as the one below the pump and the fuel temp sensor.

What the spill valve wires both read the same voltage which I'm getting 12.8 with ignition on. Volts turning off ignition.

Another thing I've noticed is the injector pump relay is getting a positive voltage on the wire that's supposed to be ground. So I cut that wire and ground the pin and it clicks. Van will start and cut off immediately still. Connecting back the wire original will not allow it to start at all. I find that strange.

I tried this ecu on another prado which has no intercooler on top and that vehicle does not start with this ecu. Put it back in my van and it still starts and cuts off immediately. Also noticed the check light cuts off when it starts and comes on as it cuts off.

I'm currently lost now.

I also changed glow plug fuse, relay and glow plugs with originals from toyota.

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Alright!!!!! It's alive!!!!!!!

I decided to check spill valve and it was clicking but decided to change it anyway. Had another pump and took that one out, noticed the click was louder on this one, changed it, didn't believe it would made a difference and low and behold....it's idling!!

A bit high idle but I'd adjust the throttle cable or the pump itself later or tomorrow.

Now I just need to figure out the issue with the pump relay on why it gets current signal to the grounded pin. I currently have that pin on a separate wire ground on the body which comes on with ignition and off when turned off.

 

[KiwiBogan]

Alright!!!!! It's alive!!!!!!!

I decided to check spill valve and it was clicking but decided to change it anyway. Had another pump and took that one out, noticed the click was louder on this one, changed it, didn't believe it would made a difference and low and behold....it's idling!!

A bit high idle but I'd adjust the throttle cable or the pump itself later or tomorrow.

Now I just need to figure out the issue with the pump relay on why it gets current signal to the grounded pin. I currently have that pin on a separate wire ground on the body which comes on with ignition and off when turned off.

Nice one mate!
Do yourself a favour and grab a cheap ELM327 obd2 Bluetooth dongle off eBay and download the ELMscan Toyota app on your phone. This allows you to view and clear diagnostic codes as well as monitor live data from around the engine. Immensely helpful when troubleshooting. Assuming your car has an OBD2 diagnostics port under the dash.

Can your I swap out a known good relay to see if that works? Sounds like it might be stuck in the on position even though the switching part is still working?

 

[KiwiBogan]

Code 32 is the correction resistors on the side of the pump. Depending on the pump type, it'll either be a brown resistor and a grey resistor from memory, or a black ROM module.

It sounds bizzarre that all these things have gone at once. Sounds like the car has has had a major electrical over voltage or something has fried badly at some stage?

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Code 32 is the correction resistors on the side of the pump. Depending on the pump type, it'll either be a brown resistor and a grey resistor from memory, or a black ROM module.

It sounds bizzarre that all these things have gone at once. Sounds like the car has has had a major electrical over voltage or something has fried badly at some stage?

The vehicle was by a mechanic for months until I just took it home to see about it myself and it really seems they destroyed everything somehow. I have a spare brown and grey resistor which I'll swap out tomorrow as well.

 

[KZJ95Beast]

Nice one mate!
Do yourself a favour and grab a cheap ELM327 obd2 Bluetooth dongle off eBay and download the ELMscan Toyota app on your phone. This allows you to view and clear diagnostic codes as well as monitor live data from around the engine. Immensely helpful when troubleshooting. Assuming your car has an OBD2 diagnostics port under the dash.

Can your I swap out a known good relay to see if that works? Sounds like it might be stuck in the on position even though the switching part is still working?

I'll put a new relay and see if it works

 

[KiwiBogan]

The vehicle was by a mechanic for months until I just took it home to see about it myself and it really seems they destroyed everything somehow. I have a spare brown and grey resistor which I'll swap out tomorrow as well.

No worries. Keep us posted. Always keen to hear the solution to these problems.

 

[KZJ95Beast]

So I just put a new ground to the relay, left the output and source and power original and works like normal.


Now that the van is starting and idling, it's taking off very slow and lots of Black smoke.

Does anyone have a color coding and wiring for the map sensor?

Any reasons why it would be slow taking off and black smoke?

 

[KiwiBogan]

So I just put a new ground to the relay, left the output and source and power original and works like normal.


Now that the van is starting and idling, it's taking off very slow and lots of Black smoke.

Does anyone have a color coding and wiring for the map sensor?

Any reasons why it would be slow taking off and black smoke?

Your EGR and/or intake will be blocked. So poor air:fuel ratio

 

[KZJ95Beast]

So I realized I forget pump adjustment.

Adjusted it and it takes off powerful now. Vehicle starts normal, idles normal, no knocking idling or revving.

However I'm getting codes 14 and 32.....

14 being timing control/timing angle
32 being correction resistor signal

If I remove battery and clear them, it won't come on, until hit the throttle harder. This is where I get another problem.

I'm getting a knocking, about 2 or 3 knocks below the vehicle, around the trans area. I'm wondering if it's something in the transmission or something body and suspension hitting. If I hold the brakes and throttle it, it will budge forward but no knocks.

It's not the pump or injectors, not that knock sound, definitely not an engine knock sounds. The sound is a something hitting something knock