I hate to run the risk of asking something that has a million post already , but I’m not seeing anything exactly like what I’m experiencing on 2000 100 series so posting while I continue to read and learn.
What I’m experiencing is with multiple key types (master, valet, aftermarket, etc) that...
First off…thanks for all the help. I bet some of this is so basic for y’all?
Good news/bad news?
Good news: I got it running and was able to move it into the garage. This will make it so much better to work on at night!
Def a burned / corroded wire to amp meter on dash as y’all thought was...
It got late / dark so I bailed on measuring the amp meter. For years the amp meter would sometimes flutter back and forth but then sometimes seem to work.
This is what I see now while in dash but I noticed when I removed + batt terminal it stays exactly the same.
It’s prob been 10 years since...
Nothing…I was just visually looking.
Where do I even measure V here and is finding 12 V here a sign that 12 V are running into the fire wall main harness?
no power across any fuses.
I’ll look through the wires under there to see if obvious where main power is coming into fuse box. I’ve never had to look back to main power coming into fuse box before.
Yep…just spliced and no fuse. Again been like this for over a decade and I was unaware.
Don’t joke this temp set up but I reput it back together with a cheap inline fuse and measured 12 V at the white main cable. See pic where my finger is where I measured 12 V going to white main cable...
Here is the wire ends. There is no fuse anywhere and it’s been like this for as lonng as I’ve owned it 10+ years. At this point I’m gonna put it back together and see if I can confirm V getting to white cable.
Good responses and yes it appears power is going to nothing!
I forgot to check power across each fuse.
I’ll have to get back on these checks on Sunday.
Stay tuned and if anyone else has any other checks / good advice I’m all ears. I plan on giving this a few more attempts but after a few...
Still interesting.
Check list completed:
Confirmed batt is good (multi meter and a tester)
Alt measures good
New fuses installed
Checked grounds and appear clean and tight
Voltage reg seems perfectly clean (did remember pic of that)
Used bypass crack trigger (can’t recall proper name) connected...
I'll check tomorrow, but battery is new (this year) and cables and terminals are good. The grounds? Um, not sure and honestly never messed with them / know where to check on grounds. I'll look around/search tomorrow.
Regarding 1978 FJ40 (generally stock)
Folks - this is the first post I've made in a really long time. While I still have the 40 and the 100 series, the reality is after getting older and having 2 kids I literally have not had to do any work (or have the time to tinker with it anymore) on the...
Looking for a single license plate light cover for my 1978 FJ40. Hoping around triangle area so I can drive and pick up.
Here is a pic to a new one for reference to what I'm after. Worse case if no one has one I'll buy new and get shipped, but was hoping for used because I think if I buy a...
Local dealer quoted $3k for new axle installed. I know these trucks last a long time, but it is hard for me to get my head around that with 216k miles on it. I talked to a trusted shop locally that focus on Toyota and they suggested letting them try to track down a good used axle and they...
Thanks. I'm not sure I'll have the time to do this job so I'll probably just pay out. Kids and work make it harder for me these days.
The whine is def due front diff running low on oil.
What I'm wondering now is if the damage (I wasn't able to look for metal shavings / see how low the oil...
Looking for advice.
Truck: 2000 Series 100 Land Cruiser with 216k miles
Goal: Drive it to 300k miles / ~3 years and probably buy a newer one (well new to me as I never buy new cars)
Situation: I have a front axle leak by the CV joint into the axle due to bad seal. Unfortunately my wife was...
so I just tested this out and didn't really get far. Here is what I did/found:
1) poured water down front drain holes on both DS and PS
2) water came out really clean with no issues / no debris / clogs
I did NOT pour water in rear drain holes. It was cold out and I was hurrying and forgot...
okay...thanks. So poking small tool in all those little slots helps? Seems like any debris is still going to be floating around in there. I'll try poking and clearing up as much as I can in those slits.
Am I on the right track if I do that? I def have all the symptoms of clogs sunroof drain...