Decision time..... (1 Viewer)

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Dec 8, 2013
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Location
North GA
Put more gear oil in the front diff as my passenger side knuckle is puking like hell :eek: You can smell the puking just by standing near the vehicle. It's all over the inside of my wheel as well.

As many have read I fear I have a small HG leak and have no idea what the PO may have put in or done all together about this issue. rear heater lines look good but I'm still loosing coolant out of the resovoir slowly over a weeks time. She runs solid and I'm not having any real noticible issues except for a moments rough idle upon startup.

HG or axle job?? Don't have the funds for both right now and am really contemplating doing the axle job with a buddy.

Thoughts and real time experience appreciated.
 
Well, no motor means that axle ain't spinning no matter what.

If you're positive you need a HG, I'd do that myself, you can patch the axle with that ~$6 axle seal & a couple tubes grease / 2 qts axle oil - may not be perfect but it'll hold until you can afford to do it right.
 
A motor rebuild for our vehicles is very expensive.. I'd say get the head gasket done (IF that is the problem) to prevent a more serious issue. BTW where you located in North Ga? I'll be back in Fayette County around March on leave, trying to get a trail day going one weekend
 
@Qball haven't you done the Bars HG treatment stuff with good results?
 
@Qball haven't you done the Bars HG treatment stuff with good results?


Yes very good result, so good i'm just going to run it till it blows and decide on a swap later. It has been 5k miles that included a few wheeling/camping trips. She runs better now than ever before!
 
I'm up near Dahlonega; always looking for a good wheeling day.

Linus, $6 axle seal?

Not sure on price but the inner axle seal - it's what holds diff fluid from migrating into your grease & then you see the "birf soup" slung all over the inner wheel & the inner sidewall of the tire. That seal is what holds the diff fluid from coming back out to where you're seeing it flung.

I would just pump fresh grease to level in the side you don't see birf soup, not even open that side (if there is one) - just service the seal on the side that's really giving issues. Treat it like a field repair until you can afford to buy the right gaskets & can set up to do it per book.
 
front axle kit from Kurt is in the $200 range, depending what bearings you choose
 
Make sure to check the nuts on your steering arms. If they are loose or a stud is missing, it will leak really bad through that area.
 
If it's running ok now i would go ahead and do the front axle service, you clearly need that right away.
 
One more vote here for replacing the axle seal on the leaking side and get on the HG now. A freshly rebuilt axle is no good to you when your engine is hydro-locked.
 
So I can just service the axle seal without doing an entire tear down of the knuckle??

And I've been thinking about Bars or Blue Devil; just don't want to cause more issues down the road by doing so. But I may not have a choice.

My shop is going to charge in the $1400 range for the complete axle service :confused:
HG at same shop will run around $1500 :rimshot:
 
So I can just service the axle seal without doing an entire tear down of the knuckle??

And I've been thinking about Bars or Blue Devil; just don't want to cause more issues down the road by doing so. But I may not have a choice.

My shop is going to charge in the $1400 range for the complete axle service :confused:
HG at same shop will run around $1500 :rimshot:

$1400 for axle rebuild is wayyy too high...

and you'll have to do an entire tear down of the knuckle to replace the seal, but it is the only thing you absolutely need to replace at that point

this is why people spend the 200 for all the correct seals and gaskets and new bearings, because it's a lot of work
 
image.jpg
Here's a pic of my passenger side......
 
We've all been there to some degree dude - just photocopy / print pages & lay out so you don't have to touch them, get the tools & get at it.

Lay the parts out like the come off, you''ll be at that little seal in 2-3 hrs.

It really is that seal that makes this such a issue, the mess & inconvenience is why it's talked about so much.
 
I'd do the bars on the HG and see if that helps. The HG is expensive to do right. IMO the head should be gone through by a machine shop. HG bars leak, then fix the axle and save your pennies for the HG fix.
 
My vote is for Bars HG fix stuff. Qball and numerous others have used it and have had good luck with it. It isn't the same crap that was sold 20 years ago. It's about $50 for a bottle of it.

As for the axle rebuild...If money is tight just keep it filled with moly grease through the fill hole on the back side (square plug on the top). It isn't going to hurt anything. Drive it for a month or so and see how the HG is holding up.

No chance in hell he is repairing your head gasket the right way for $1500. Not a chance. The head needs to be checked for warping or cracking. Then machined. Machining costs about $500 alone.

Spend the extra time working your second job to save up for the HG and knuckle rebuild. Or buy a 3FE and not worry about your HG crapping the bed. :flipoff2:
 
I'm with the other guys.

1) Bars for the HG
2) Fill knuckle with grease

...then see where you're at and let the outcome dictate priority. #1 may become a low priority issue, and then you can do the full knuckle job yourself on a weekend for less than $200.

Or #1 may not work, in which case that automatically becomes priority #1.
 
Sad state as I did own a '91 3FE :slap:

She's locally owned now and I actually met up with the new owner this weekend by happenstance. Running AOK with 240K.

How I've come full circle to own my 5th LC in 2 years is a story in itself; but I'm happy with my new to me LX. Rust free, rides smooth regardless of needing new shocks and springs, and 1 owner since '99 (locked but not currently working).

I like the suggestions of BARS/Blue Devil and then see where I'm at. Not sure I have a choice. So BARS or Blue Devil?
 

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