trailer build questions (1 Viewer)

[cr500taco]

I've been reading through this site, because eventually I want to get a FJ40.

But, first, I am going to be building up my first trailer. Been reading through this site, getting some ideas.

I am looking into getting either a 4X6 or 4X7 utility trailer. It will be used as a combination dirt bike/off road trailer. I am going to put a rack on it for a RTT and the trailer will haul camping gear, mountain bikes and hopefully kayaks in the future, when I am not taking the dirt bikes. I am going to build a box that I can slide off and on the trailer. It will hold the camping gear to protect them from the elements. It will be dragged along by my 1st gen Tacoma 4X4.

Just wondering as far as taking it off road, if the foot difference of the floor length will make much or any difference on the trails. I am thinking shorter the better. I don't know how much of an overall length difference there is between the two trailer sizes. I may put a storage box on the tongue, so I don't know if I will need to extend the tongue for that. Also, thinking about getting rid of the ball hitch and putting on a Pintle hitch. The bikes will fit on the 6' trailer if I either remove the ramp or leave it down like a tailgate on a truck. If I leave the ramp on, I plan on cutting down the ramp to the height of the side rails of the trailer.

How much ground clearance is recommended? I am looking into getting either Dexter or Timbrens for axles. But leaning on the Dexters, because I haven't found too much feedback on the Timbrens, yet to persuade me that they worth the extra cost difference. Dexters have an option for a total of 6" raise, including lift blocks and Timbrens have an option of 4" raise. I am thinking of putting on 31" tires to match the tire size of my truck and maybe going up to 33"s when/if I put 33"s on my truck.

 

[greentruck]

It would be the worst of all trails for a foot of difference in the box length to make any difference. IMO.

Shorter is usually better, but that extra is worth having if you have loads that regularly need the extra length. I'd say go longer if you'll be using that extra length.

Dexter is industry standard stuff. Unless you have unusual needs, the low cost and toughness of Dexter is hard to beat.

Ground clearance for up to 33" tires can be easily provided with a standard leaf spring set-up with no rise and the axle OVER the leaf springs. That's how most 1/4 ton trailers are set-up. If you need a little more clearance, just mount the springs over the axle (SOA), but 33s should fit without the need for that with proper design. An example is our 1/4 ton M101 CDN, where you can get an idea of how this relates from this pic.

While on some short tires here, with the custom fenders I had made it clears 33s with no problem. You can see by the spring hangers how it fits and that the springs are still under the axle like this.

 

[NMBruce]

mine is based off an M416 military trailer, steel frame and floor with a 3500lbs axle and 700lbs springs and a sliding tongue, the box is made out of wood and can be removed if needed, total weight load is just under 1200lbs

 

[cr500taco]

Sorry, just saw that you posted.

Thanks for your advise.

So, seems like there is no need to jack the trailer up sky high. It, makes sense to keep the trailer lower for center of gravity sake, as well. The 4X6 trailers that I have seen don't' have the ground clearance that I would like. But, maybe the larger tires will fix that without going SOA. I was thinking of doing an SOA on the trailer in the meantime until I got the Dexter Torflex to gain some ground clearance and raising the fenders up to clear the larger tires. The reason why I asked about the height, was because I have seen some trailers that were raised quite a bit and some even had 35"s.

I'm pretty sure I can make the 4X6 work with the bikes. I have seen pics of 4X6 trailers being used to haul a couple of dirt bikes. So, I would rather deal with a little modifications on the trailer to keep it short. Plus the 4X6 seems to be more common than the 4X7.

It would be the worst of all trails for a foot of difference in the box length to make any difference. IMO.

Shorter is usually better, but that extra is worth having if you have loads that regularly need the extra length. I'd say go longer if you'll be using that extra length.

Dexter is industry standard stuff. Unless you have unusual needs, the low cost and toughness of Dexter is hard to beat.

Ground clearance for up to 33" tires can be easily provided with a standard leaf spring set-up with no rise and the axle OVER the leaf springs. That's how most 1/4 ton trailers are set-up. If you need a little more clearance, just mount the springs over the axle (SOA), but 33s should fit without the need for that with proper design. An example is our 1/4 ton M101 CDN, where you can get an idea of how this relates from this pic.

View attachment 1132011
While on some short tires here, with the custom fenders I had made it clears 33s with no problem. You can see by the spring hangers how it fits and that the springs are still under the axle like this.[/QUOTE

 

[cr500taco]

mine is based off an M416 military trailer, steel frame and floor with a 3500lbs axle and 700lbs springs and a sliding tongue, the box is made out of wood and can be removed if needed, total weight load is just under 1200lbs

View attachment 1132974 View attachment 1132976

That's nice. Sliding tongue, how does that work?

 

[NMBruce]

That's nice. Sliding tongue, how does that work?

The tongue is about 4.5ft long and has 4 holds in it. The first is right at the weld for the hitch and then about every 10" after that. This lets me slide the tongue in for say a ferry ride or out to clear the tailgate or more. You can see a lock pin that holds the tongue in place. I can show more pictures if you want of the tongue or build.

 

[greentruck]

Sorry, just saw that you posted.

Thanks for your advise.

So, seems like there is no need to jack the trailer up sky high. It, makes sense to keep the trailer lower for center of gravity sake, as well. The 4X6 trailers that I have seen don't' have the ground clearance that I would like. But, maybe the larger tires will fix that without going SOA. I was thinking of doing an SOA on the trailer in the meantime until I got the Dexter Torflex to gain some ground clearance and raising the fenders up to clear the larger tires. The reason why I asked about the height, was because I have seen some trailers that were raised quite a bit and some even had 35"s.
SNIP

Yeah, you would need the SOA to run 35s. They would definitely rub the underside of the fenders without an SOA configured as my trailer is and I suspect very similar with other military pattern 1/4 ton trailers. But really, you're only a couple of sets of U-bolts away from an SOA by building it SUA and running 33s until then.

 

[ntsqd]

Some trailer axles are dropped. If the trailer that you're looking at uses one of those you can gain a lot just by going to a straight axle. The better built trailer axles will have some camber in them, so merely flipping those over isn't a good idea.

 

[greentruck]

Yeah, flipping the axle has its own share of issues in any case. Better to move/reweld the spring perches and leave the axle in the same position, just dropping it to be under the axle.

 

[cr500taco]

The tongue is about 4.5ft long and has 4 holds in it. The first is right at the weld for the hitch and then about every 10" after that. This lets me slide the tongue in for say a ferry ride or out to clear the tailgate or more. You can see a lock pin that holds the tongue in place. I can show more pictures if you want of the tongue or build.

Thanks, but no need for the pics. I completely understand how it works. That's a good idea about being able to extend it if the tailgate is down.

 

[cr500taco]

Another question that I just thought of. What should i look for in a trailer. I have seen that Lowes sells them for about $800 and I think the Depot as well. I think I have even seen them cheaper, for a new one.

 

[greentruck]

Anything sold at the big box is likely intended primarily for on road use. It might work for you, but look the frame and suspension over carefully. You want the frame to be box-section steel if possible, not Z's and L's. Check the welding for quality.

You'll also want to run full-size tires as on your primary tow vehicle and many trailers are only set up for small, trailer-only tires. Give consideration to whether the hubs can be converted to match the lug nut pattern on your tow vehicle.

 

[NMBruce]

there is a thread about home build trailers here http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f27/...ype-trailer-ultimate-build-up-thread-1180456/, its 151 pages long, but there you can see that people have build them from Harbor Freight trailers and made them work for off road use, but everyone reinforce the trailers.

 

[ntsqd]

The tear-drops and tiny trailers forum has a great how-to on building your own. It's a little math of front, but it's not that difficult! By the time you've reinforced an HF or similar trailer to go off pavement you may as well have started from scratch.

 

[ozcrusier]

I brought this heavy duty 7x4 15 year back its fully galvanized so should last for ever. Its a good size and fits behind the cruiser well with no overhang to hook up on anything in the scrub.