Locked to unlocked guidance needed (1 Viewer)

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My 93 FZJ80 is locked but the front diff is shot. I ordered and received an unlocked differential and discovered a key difference directly related to installation. The locked diff has 10 threaded studs and the unlocked has 8.

How are the two long studs removed and the two short studs moved over to where the long studs were located?
 
thread two nuts onto the extra stud and torque them against eachother. then try and loosen the nut thats closest to the axle/housing. double nut method for lack of a better term
 
Doesn't that still leave an open gap on th sealing surface/mating ring?
 
Doesn't that still leave an open gap on th sealing surface/mating ring?

It seems that's what I'm discovering. I can't get the holes to line up from approximately 2 o'clock through 5 o'clock - where the locker was. Has anyone else done the locked to unlocked switch? What am I missing?

At this point I'm ready to stick the bad one back in and just drive it till it catches on fire.
 
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It seems that's what I'm discovering. I can't get the holes to line up from approximately 2 o'clock through 5 o'clock - where the locker was. Has anyone else done the locked to unlocked switch? What am I missing?

At this point I'm ready to stick the bad one back in and just drive it till it catches on fire.
I've been using permeated for many years. The key is to make sure the mating surfaces are clean and don't use too much.
 
Locked housings are completely different than unlocked as far as the 3rd member is concerned....
 
...
At this point I'm ready to stick the bad one back in and just drive it till it catches on fire.

What is wrong with the locked diff, why not repair it?
 
In that case, leave the diff, drive shaft and axles out, reassemble the rest, seal up the diff hole, lock the CDL and drive it until the diff can be repaired?
 
sprh.jpg
 
In that case, leave the diff, drive shaft and axles out, reassemble the rest, seal up the diff hole, lock the CDL and drive it until the diff can be repaired?

Thanks for the suggestion. I never would have thought of that. That's probably the way it'll go.

I've got an old gas grill which can probably be canibalized to cover the back of the pumpkin. Should I seal both ends of the axle housing as well? With a wooden dowel, or something, so grease from the steering knuckle doesn't get inside the axle? Although it probably doesn't matter since there won't be any gear oil in there.
 
Just clean most of the grease out of the knuckles, only needs some in the knuckle bearings. I have seen the diff hole covered by duct tape, plastic, one covered by a plywood disk with drilled holes and bolted on. Doesn't matter just need to keep most of the road grime out, durability depends on how long it will be needed.
 
Unlocked front axles are not hard to find. Several available locally for cheap. John
 
@Tools R Us

I did as you suggested. Thank you. It certainly drives different but I'm happy with it for now. Thanks for your help.

Why lock the center differential if the front is removed? What does that do?
 
These rigs have a center differential with a viscous coupler. If you don't have a front driveline in place, and your CDL not locked, it will try to send power to the front driveline and burn up the viscous coupler.
 
^^^ This. To lock the center; shift low range, look for the CDL & ABS light to come on, pull the Diff fuse, shift high range and drive. When you want to restore normal operation, after it's fixed, simply install the Diff fuze.
 
Yup that'll do.
 

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