How's the EGT readings since the install? Would like to know what you're getting.
Bulletproofing the 2H? (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter duncanrm
- Start date
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Irony!
The Amarok motor is also a 2h!
Now if they'd just give us the V6 TDI like the rest of the world we'd be laughing!
If you are still interested in bulletproofing the truck, old phone books in the side panels are the least expensive way to stop most common bullets. Bulletproofing the windowed areas is possible, but very expensive. Maybe just don't drive where people shoot at you.
txgringo
SILVER Star
I believe they were speaking metaphorically about the engine....
But if one wanted an inexpensive option for protecting their windows, this is where I would look:
http://www.globalsecurityexperts.com/products/glass-protection-kits/vehiclegard-clear.html
Shattergard will stop some small caliber rounds and will significantly slow down those it won't stop. It also keeps glass dust and shards from flying all around, which can be a damaging as the primary projectile a lot of times. It also works wonders at keeping your local dousch bag population from performing the ever popular smash and grab....
But if one wanted an inexpensive option for protecting their windows, this is where I would look:
http://www.globalsecurityexperts.com/products/glass-protection-kits/vehiclegard-clear.html
Shattergard will stop some small caliber rounds and will significantly slow down those it won't stop. It also keeps glass dust and shards from flying all around, which can be a damaging as the primary projectile a lot of times. It also works wonders at keeping your local dousch bag population from performing the ever popular smash and grab....
The phone books would work in the engine compartment too, but might be a challenge fitting them to the fender wells. Old flack jackets might work better there. Likely gonna have to opt for some sort of steel grille for the front of the rad.
The shatterguard is a good option, the side windows beak into a thousand pieces easily, and so do some of the JDM windscreens.
I'm getting in on this late but am just starting out with my HJ47 and want to treat her right. So I'm trying to understand this addition of the by-pass. Sorry to be so dumb but I need a more step-by-step walk thru with pictures like this one to really feel like I know what I need to do and how to do it. So you put a "t" in an existing line and that oil line in silver in this photo goes to the by-pass filter. Then that filter has a line that you have going to the oil cap? (You drilled a hole in the oil cap or something to insert the tube? (Or am I screwing this all up in how I'm interpreting it?) Also, why did you do this kind of by-pass filter system instead of this one: https://www.amsoil.com/shop/by-product/filters-and-by-pass-From here, from the oil sending unit location: (picture from another thread)
systems/by-pass/filters-and-mounts/universal-dual-remote-bypass-system/?code=BMK23-EA
And finally, where did you attach the filter to. Looks like there are a couple of bolts you need to attach it to something pretty solid. Thanks!
@Paraglider
1. The Amsoil product you referred to is a dual (full-flow AND by-pass) filtering system. I was only interested in the by-pass system because I left my stock 2H full-flow filtering system alone.
2. You need a high-pressure oil supply line as input into the by-pass filtering system from your engine . Thus, the "T" solution, or any other high-pressure oil port that you can find on your engine block. I found an extra port on my 2H stock filter mount and used that.
3. You need a low-pressure oil return line as output from the by-pass system back to your engine. Two methods: return it to the head, or return it to your oil pan which requires drilling either way. I returned mine to the head through the plastic oil cap.
4. As for mounting the by-pass system, bolt it anywhere you can find in your engine bay, except onto the engine itself. I mounted mine on top of the fender using 3 bolts.
Read this installation instruction carefully to understand it more: https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/instructions/BMK21_BP83.pdf
1. The Amsoil product you referred to is a dual (full-flow AND by-pass) filtering system. I was only interested in the by-pass system because I left my stock 2H full-flow filtering system alone.
2. You need a high-pressure oil supply line as input into the by-pass filtering system from your engine . Thus, the "T" solution, or any other high-pressure oil port that you can find on your engine block. I found an extra port on my 2H stock filter mount and used that.
3. You need a low-pressure oil return line as output from the by-pass system back to your engine. Two methods: return it to the head, or return it to your oil pan which requires drilling either way. I returned mine to the head through the plastic oil cap.
4. As for mounting the by-pass system, bolt it anywhere you can find in your engine bay, except onto the engine itself. I mounted mine on top of the fender using 3 bolts.
Read this installation instruction carefully to understand it more: https://www.amsoil.com/bypassfilters/instructions/BMK21_BP83.pdf
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Thanks. It's much clearer now. appreciate.the help.
