My expedition hybrid trailer build. (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bmw635
- Start date
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ntsqd
technerd
That light that I posted is pretty much a flood light. I suppose it's directional, but I doubt that you'd notice much difference from any aiming efforts. It has all of the ingredients to be waterproof, I just don't yet know for sure that it is. For the $20 I figured that it was worth a try.
just checking in to say hi. Looks great!!
You're making some good progress. Are you powder coating or painting ?
- Thread starter
- #46
The box and frame is getting powder coated. Frame was zinc coated then painted but the sheet metal work scratches the paint so it's getting PC. Box is hammer tone textured.
Next is the triangular box on the tongue. I am trying to figure out how to make door on 2side, swingout, and water / dust proof. 1/2 of the triangular box is batteries, electricals, water pump, tools , and shower hook up and the other 1/2 is kitchen , counter, stove, sink, utensils.
The other option is to get a smaller fridge to fit on the A frame and build a separate portable kitchen box like chuck wagon and carry inside the trailer.
Any rec'd since there are lots of unique trailer build but I doubt I've seen them all. TIA.
Next is the triangular box on the tongue. I am trying to figure out how to make door on 2side, swingout, and water / dust proof. 1/2 of the triangular box is batteries, electricals, water pump, tools , and shower hook up and the other 1/2 is kitchen , counter, stove, sink, utensils.
The other option is to get a smaller fridge to fit on the A frame and build a separate portable kitchen box like chuck wagon and carry inside the trailer.
Any rec'd since there are lots of unique trailer build but I doubt I've seen them all. TIA.
Not sure how to build a triangle tongue box that both sides are doors and are water tight.I have built tool boxes for sides of trucks before and even with a rubber seal they still tend to leak a little bit especially with driving rains at hwy speeds.
ntsqd
technerd
No guarantee, but how I'd go about such a tongue box would be to hide the rubber seal inside of a reasonably tight labyrinth seal, and put the hinges at the front rather than the back to further 'hide' the rubber seal from road spray. To promote door rigidity I would make a 1/2" square tube frame for the doors, cross-break the door panels, and use two latches.
Teal is the opening frame, blue is the door, black is seal.
Teal is the opening frame, blue is the door, black is seal.
itbrokeagain
SILVER Star
I'm probably too late but I would go with tractor paint from Tractor Supply. Once it cures it is as tough as it gets
- Thread starter
- #50
We got EPA, CARB so it has go to go in a paint booth to spray- sand, primer, and epoxy paint which cost more than PC. I can paint but have no booth so no choice. Thanks for the tractor paint tip.
- Thread starter
- #51
Initially, the tongue box was suppose to be tools, storage box and the kitchen box was suppose to be portable and store in the trailer and deploy free standing or hitch into 1 of 4 holes in the frame so this change is an after thought.
After numerous YouTubes, I decided to make it built-in on the tongue so it gives access to the fridge at the front of the trailer box while swing out to cook, proximity to water pump, electric while all sleeping panels are opened. Swing out on opposite side is for shower, vanity with proximity to water, pump, heater. Similar to the kitchen and vanity set up on the Conqueror 440/490. http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=QpauUSmtJmA&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQpauUSmtJmA
Would this design hold water, dirt on top of the seal then fall inside when opened? I think I understand your concept but still trying to visualize the entire 4 side.
I thought of building 1/2 of the triangular top as part of the door on each side so the only top seal between 2 side is under the top break on each door. The seal on the rear is near the trailer with latch, 2 hinges on the front triangle like you said, and the bottom seal is no issue. Only problem with this is lots of reinforcement which defeat the light weight design intended.
After numerous YouTubes, I decided to make it built-in on the tongue so it gives access to the fridge at the front of the trailer box while swing out to cook, proximity to water pump, electric while all sleeping panels are opened. Swing out on opposite side is for shower, vanity with proximity to water, pump, heater. Similar to the kitchen and vanity set up on the Conqueror 440/490. http://m.youtube.com/#/watch?v=QpauUSmtJmA&desktop_uri=%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DQpauUSmtJmA
Would this design hold water, dirt on top of the seal then fall inside when opened? I think I understand your concept but still trying to visualize the entire 4 side.
I thought of building 1/2 of the triangular top as part of the door on each side so the only top seal between 2 side is under the top break on each door. The seal on the rear is near the trailer with latch, 2 hinges on the front triangle like you said, and the bottom seal is no issue. Only problem with this is lots of reinforcement which defeat the light weight design intended.
ntsqd
technerd
That is a cross section of any side, top, bottom, hinge (though the hinge isn't shown), or latch side. If it is the top then water or dirt could collect to the right of the high point of the sealing bulb, but it would tend to drain off either end. It could also collect to the left of the high point on the sealing bulb, but would also tend to drain off either end though there is the possibility that a small amount may drip inside on opening. Much as does a little water when you open the car or truck door.
There are two basic design premises at work here; first is to 'hide' the bulb seal where high speed water or dirt can't easily get to it, second is to create drainage for the water or dirt so that it can't easily pile up somewhere and spill inside, in volume, when the door is opened.
As an example of the strategy, a lot of outdoor surface mount electrical panels are not water-proof at all. They simply are designed such that what water can run inside can't easily get to energized surfaces and will much more readily drain out the bottom of the panel.
Trying to seal two doors on different planes to each other is a plan destined to fail.
There are two basic design premises at work here; first is to 'hide' the bulb seal where high speed water or dirt can't easily get to it, second is to create drainage for the water or dirt so that it can't easily pile up somewhere and spill inside, in volume, when the door is opened.
As an example of the strategy, a lot of outdoor surface mount electrical panels are not water-proof at all. They simply are designed such that what water can run inside can't easily get to energized surfaces and will much more readily drain out the bottom of the panel.
Trying to seal two doors on different planes to each other is a plan destined to fail.
- Thread starter
- #53
Half way done with the build. The roof is not working perfect as the shop screwup the dimension.
As you can see, the roof is 8" down the rear door so it can't be open unless the roof is popup so either no secure of the rear section or can't open rear upper door.
My plan now is to redo the roof to 4" only or cut out the rear panel of the roof so rear door can swimg up and if front roof popup, it wont scratch the rear fixed wall (rabbit ear panel).
All the woods are in and the cushion is on top. Water tanks are mounted under frame, in front of suspension. I'll post some pics tomorrow with the gears loaded inside as we're going camping that's why i've been rushing to get this far to make it usable.
As you can see, the roof is 8" down the rear door so it can't be open unless the roof is popup so either no secure of the rear section or can't open rear upper door.
My plan now is to redo the roof to 4" only or cut out the rear panel of the roof so rear door can swimg up and if front roof popup, it wont scratch the rear fixed wall (rabbit ear panel).
All the woods are in and the cushion is on top. Water tanks are mounted under frame, in front of suspension. I'll post some pics tomorrow with the gears loaded inside as we're going camping that's why i've been rushing to get this far to make it usable.
Any updates?
- Thread starter
- #56
Finally picking up the pace again after almost a yr since I started this build. Was supposed to pull this to Desert Rendezvous yesterday but work forced me to cancel.
Storage box installed. Getting ready for wirings with battery, fuses, solar charger and controller, etc...... on the gas can side. I know gas and battery don't mix so I'll have to figure where to store gas- it's my rig and stove fuel as I don't use propane.
The other side will be for kitchen equipment. It would have worked better if I could have made a box with 2 front swing down door on each side of the front angle. The problem with that was I could not figure a way to keep water and dust out.
Queen bed with the cushions and pillows. The long piece on right or 3 smaller pieces on left to fill the headboard or pillows. The 3 other cushions for the pop out is in garage.
The wood platform under the queen bed can be configured as dinette with 2 benches kn the side and the middle platform become table. Still need to mount the leg and hardware on the table.
Took it to scale and tip it at 1580 lbs dry. With 10 gal of gas, 12- 18 gal of water, and 32qt or 64qt fridge with foods, bikes , kayaks, it will come in at 2000 lbs.
Storage box installed. Getting ready for wirings with battery, fuses, solar charger and controller, etc...... on the gas can side. I know gas and battery don't mix so I'll have to figure where to store gas- it's my rig and stove fuel as I don't use propane.
The other side will be for kitchen equipment. It would have worked better if I could have made a box with 2 front swing down door on each side of the front angle. The problem with that was I could not figure a way to keep water and dust out.
Queen bed with the cushions and pillows. The long piece on right or 3 smaller pieces on left to fill the headboard or pillows. The 3 other cushions for the pop out is in garage.
The wood platform under the queen bed can be configured as dinette with 2 benches kn the side and the middle platform become table. Still need to mount the leg and hardware on the table.
Took it to scale and tip it at 1580 lbs dry. With 10 gal of gas, 12- 18 gal of water, and 32qt or 64qt fridge with foods, bikes , kayaks, it will come in at 2000 lbs.
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Progress?
- Thread starter
- #58
Been busy and stuck without idea on what to do with the roof.
The popup roof is @ 100 lbs (5/8"x 5ftx6ft plywood + 14G metal) so I am trying to figure another type of roof to reduce weight while increasing insulation. Once that's finish, I can start to have the canvas wraparound the roof popup and side panel popout to finish the camper.
Got water tank, pump, electrical, battery, solar charger, inverter installed so only minor details like stereo, wagon kitchen box to mount on the side when in use, store in trailer when traveling to finish the trailer.
Any idea on what material or how I can make a light weight roof popup like this?
or popup toward the front like this?
The popup roof is @ 100 lbs (5/8"x 5ftx6ft plywood + 14G metal) so I am trying to figure another type of roof to reduce weight while increasing insulation. Once that's finish, I can start to have the canvas wraparound the roof popup and side panel popout to finish the camper.
Got water tank, pump, electrical, battery, solar charger, inverter installed so only minor details like stereo, wagon kitchen box to mount on the side when in use, store in trailer when traveling to finish the trailer.
Any idea on what material or how I can make a light weight roof popup like this?
or popup toward the front like this?
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Have you looked into Vapex?
- Thread starter
- #60
The only thing I see is E cig or projector screen. Did I miss something? Thanks.
