rear body mounts (2 Viewers)

[xtiaan2000]

Got my next project lined up.

 

[71greenpig]

5100 I see I am interested in this what's the plan. .

 

[npulver]

Can't go wrong with some 5100 billies.

 

[xtiaan2000]

These ones are the 5125s. I am pulling off some Dobinson leaf springs. After separating the leafs and sand blasting I am goning to do the por15 thing. New center pins. Getting greaseable pins for the front. Then the flip kit.
While I am there I am going to blast and paint the sway bar and replace the brackets with this magic that my buddy made for me because I kept breaking them from forgetting to undo before wheeling. Really it was because of the spontaneous wheeling that usually came late at night. I also now have some quick release bolts so I can even remove the sway bar aspect more easily.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Please remember to use the quick releases " before " you go out for the night! I've got to get shocks and thinking the 5125's are the ones.

Keep it going,

 

[xtiaan2000]

I have to look back, but I think that I used the 1500s in the front and the 1525s in the back. Not certain tho. I was told that there was different droop length between the front and back.

Yeah those late night adventures. Probably shouldn't be doing those too often! Or perhaps even better do the build to accommodate such behavior!

 

[xtiaan2000]

Gh eeerrrrrr
Got the things all put back together and because the flip kit shock mount is up higher that the stock I think I have the wrong length shocks.
Those stabilizer bar brackets had to be shaved a bit to clear the shocks, but overall I think they are going to be awesome! Got one more color in the game-Orange.

Any thoughts? I guess maybee I could extend my bump stop? Woud there be any downside to that? The idea would be that it hits the bump stop before bottoming out the shock...?

 

[scrapdaddy]

It isn't that much difference, is it? OEM plate has the shock mount on it, right. I need to go look, but I thought it was close. Putting a longer bump stop on, would affect the articulation.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Yes, the OEM is on the bottom of the leaf. It's a difference of roughly 2 or 3". I would rather have the right shock than change the bump stop. Always want more articulation, right?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

good shocks should be able to handle bottoming out; it's the over-extension that kills them.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Thanks on that. I think I am staying with the ones I have. My only worry was with bottoming out, so that is reassuring. They are so close that they might not even be too long. I am going to have to lift them to the bump stops to see for sure.

What do you all think about running with or without shock boots?

 

[LAMBCRUSHER]

Hmmm. couldn't hurt?

 

[xtiaan2000]

I didn't t think there would any "bugs" with such a basict project, but I guess I should always expect. I am getting a knocking sound on the right side when I hit bumps and as well when I go around corners and the rig is leaning I get a sound that's not right as well.

First step is to cut off the boots. Seems everyone is on the same page wit that. At least it is a place to start.

 

[xtiaan2000]

So cut the boots off and decided that indeed I need to shorten the shocks. Monday I am going to get the rig up on a ramp and get some real measurements.

Got the exahaust reworked and the bumping is gone!!! Turns out that the stabilizer bar was catching on the exhaust pipe. Simple but not cheap to fix. Got a guy that really did some nice work. Fixed the pipe by the flange into the manifold as well ran it all the way back out behind the rear wheel. Was tough to squeeze it through there, and now none of it hangs below the frame either. Some good work compared to the previous Midas pooey.!

JMack posted some cool stuff on lights. My next step. Got the vision x lamps with some piaa h4 bulbs. Nice Got them all installed. Turned on. Okay with the low, then hit the high beams, okay. Turned back to low and no low. High stil work, but no low. Reattached the old bulbs and had high beams, but no low. Thought I might just get a plug and go scenario, but MY RIG HAS SO MUCH TO STIL TEACH ME!!!!

Any ideas out there?

 

[npulver]

Im not sure how pigs wiring is setup as i have not dug into it yet, however does he high low beam switch off of a relay or from the switch only? To me that sounds like your issue, dont think its going to be wiring related.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Sorry it was Davegonz that threw out the beta on the front lights. Jmack has the beta on the reverse lights that look awesome.

I am going to look into the switch vs the relay thing today. Hopefully get some headway on that. Gonna be searching Mud for answers.

 

[xtiaan2000]

Ain't no need for searching. After a little fiddling and more fiddling it turns out the problem lay in the brights switch. After taking off the column cover I blasted the switch area out with some air filling the cabin with a cloud of dust, I guess from the last adventure, and voula la- it works. I guess it was a plug and go scenario after all, but my little piggy just wanted a little more attention. I love easy remedies!!!!!

After looking in there I think I need to get the steering wheel off and do a Scrappdaddy clean out, well, maybe just a clean out.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Alright! Got to love a win. Not much to the steering column, some cleaning and new bearings.

 

[xtiaan2000]

I haven't gotten down to the lower parts, but on your second picture on the reverse I pull the thing apart and there are springs and little guides that had been filled up with gummy stuff. Silicone,a little fuel, and air cleaned it all out. Super simple and quite effective, marked difference.
Also adjusted the horn connection. I know it doesn't seem like much but for the life of my rig the horn has been hit or miss! Now it is full time.

 

[scrapdaddy]

Nice! I've found so many things that have the same caked, dried out grease on them. A good cleaning and lube, should be good for another forty.

If I remember correctly, that bottom bearing, on mine was corroded. Got a new one at a bearing house.