Budget 4bd1t -> '94 FZJ80 Build (1 Viewer)

[Wheelingnoob]

Sounds like the same intake setup I have but I also have the factory airbox. I plan to put one of those filter vacuum gauge as close as I can to turbo inlet to tell is there is an issue. Im worried the cobra head may get sucked in and restrict/block flow though. So little room to work with though.

It looks like you will need to thread the rod of you actuator a bit more 1/2" to be safe. Just be carful its stainless and can be hard to thread.

Do a pre intercooler boot gauge T it into the W/G actuator line off the cover.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[lostih]

Yeah. I was worried about the intake too but I don't think it's the culprit. Since I eventually build boost (though not the target amount) it seems like the intake isn't the killer. Stranger things have happened but I don't think that's it.

The t for the boost gauge seems easy enough. Thanks. I was just gonna weld a bung in. I don't think the sensor harness will reach that far but I'm sure I can get a temporary one made up.

Is there a simple answer to why turbos don't build boost when not under load? Is the drive pressure of the exhaust gas less? Does the intake not provide resistance to allow boost to build?

 

[lostih]

Oh on the additional threads for the actuator...is that for space for a jamb nut? Or ?

 

[ylexot]

(1.5 bar ~22psi... d'oh) 50% loss of pressure sounds more like a leak.

As for less. I osteoporosis when not under load, think about the density of the exhaust when under load and when not under load. The engine requires more fuel, resulting in more dense exhaust, when under load. The higher density exhaust carries more momentum to transfer to the turbine blades. At least that's the story I tell my children at night.

 

[lostih]

That makes complete sense. Thanks!

 

[ylexot]

(I'm glad "osteoporosis" made sense to you. Dammed spell check. And again, I say damned. )

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Oh on the additional threads for the actuator...is that for space for a jamb nut? Or ?

Well not really you want more thread so you can shorten the rod. The jam nut is there to lock it once adjusted.

There must be a blockage or a big boost leak somewhere in your system or the turbo has damaged compressor or turbine blades. A badly cracked turbine in the waste gate area may cause some of it too.

Its so strange you are the second person to have issues getting boost out of there 4bd/TD04HL-xx.

Ill have to wait till I get home to see if mine is the same. Hope not.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I have an idea that has been tumbling around in my head the last few days for the kick down. My thought is to tighten the static setting more so it makes firm/er shifts then change the lever so you only have 3/4-1" travel so it never over pulls the cable thus allowing it to shift. This just an idea I'm not near my truck for a couple more weeks to fiddle with it.

I do want mine to shift even with my foot on the rug. But I also want decent line pressure at lower throttle input when the 4bd is making torque.

My thought with setting up the linkage that way is to increase overall line pressure but limit max throttle movement. With a diesel like this you are much more likely to have 100% throttle when driving in certain condition than you would with a gas engine.


...via IH8MUD app

 

[lostih]

I hope you don't have any issues too...and I'm guessing you won't. Remember I'm the guy that had to get a second trans because I flubbed up the first one with something simple...so I have a track record for making silly mistakes. You on the other hand are clearly methodical and I think yours will work great. I wouldn't worry about it at all. I'm using a junkyard turbo with no rebuild and this is my first diesel AND first turbo rodeo...so it could be something painfully simple. I just need to get on with checking everything out I went and picked up some AC brackets today to start working on that part of the swap. I also finished up the scion HU transplant. Pretty pleased with it. Looks stockish but gets Bluetooth and iPod control. Slick little unit. Streams pandora great

 

[lostih]

Just found a pic of my turbo cartridge. Look ok?

 

[lostih]

I'm also using the -18t turbine wheel in the -16t exhaust housing, but they looked the same on the exhaust side. Maybe they aren't?

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I'm also using the -18t turbine wheel in the -16t exhaust housing, but they looked the same on the exhaust side. Maybe they aren't?

They are the same all TD04HL's. Hard to tell but the tips of the turbine wheel look worn down sortof, I have a spare at home but no way to check.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Just dug through my build and found a picture of my turbine wheel.

http://s1048.photobucket.com/user/Wheelingnoob/media/null_zpse69e2f83.jpg.html


Your looks about the same. I would say that is not your issue.

 

[lostih]

I have a spare from the 16t. I'll take a look at it.

 

[lostih]

T'd into the wastegate line and my boost is the same pre-intercooler as post intercooler. Next step is pressure testing the intercooler piping.

 

[doug720]

If you have that big of a leak in the piping, you should be able to hear it! I had a small leak on my swap, and it was very loud and could easily be heard over the engine and other sounds.

Now, a blocked intercooler???

 

[lostih]

That's kind of what I was thinking about hearing the leak. The intercooler doesn't seem blocked since I have the same boost levels pre and post intercooler.

Hrm.

 

[wrongway around]

wouldnt you tap into the intake for comparison? not to god for but checking for leaks with starter fluid works for gas motors. it can turn a diesel into a junky though.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

 

[Fromage]

A couple of things I have found. TD04 housings are very susceptible to cracking. The first TD04 housing I got was badly cracked. I also noticed that the bushing that holds the wastegate flapper shaft could move sideways, in and out from the housing, preventing the wastegate from sealing tightly as it hangs up against the housing itself. I am not sure if I just had a bad housing or if the bushing is supposed to free-float. It seems to be tight in the replacement housing I obtained.

If you grab the wastegate lever, try pulling it in and out of the turbo along the shaft to see if it is loose. I would bet you have an issue with it moving and the flapper valve not sealing, you'd never build boost if that was the case.

Second, the best method I have found for diagnosing air leaks is to build an adapter for an air compressor to the turbo inlet, and pressurize the entire intake system with 5-10 PSI of shop air. You may need to rotate the engine until it seals, but it doesn't usually take much. I used a couple of plumbing caps and a rubber pipe union, coupled to an air pressure regulator set to 5 PSI. It works great. You can't do it with a bicycle pump as you will lose pressure through the engine slowly, but a constant 10 PSI supply should show you any leaks.

Good luck and don't give up, with that much heat through such a small turbo, it should be lighting off like crazy. Mine has a much larger turbo and I get boost almost instantaneously.