1985 FJ60 Head Gasket (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
May 6, 2014
Threads
2
Messages
10
I recently purchased a 1985 FJ60 with the original 2F. Seller stated the engine was prone to overheating. I removed the head to have it tested, replace gaskets, replace seals, and have it resurfaced if needed . Once I got it all pulled apart and off the block I got my first real look at the head gasket. I was surprised to see the gasket didn't have holes in all the same places as the head/block. The only coolant holes that were actually open were the 3 at the back of the engine, closest to the firewall. Is this normal??? To me it looks like the gasket was purposely blocking off coolant flow to the front 4 or 5 cylinders.

Could this be the reason for my overheating problem?
 
Whatever the reason, this screams 'use an OEM gasket' no matter what the price. There are many other threads on 2F head gaskets, if you care to search.
 
Some holes will be covered some open. Since you posted no pix we can't tell if it's an OE gasket or not or .... ? But as stated, when replacing, use an OE Toyota gasket or OEM - ONLY - and put it on dry. If resurfacing, do the minimum necessary.

An incorrectly installed HG might also prevent oil to the rockers.
 
Here's a pic. I don't have a replacement gasket yet, so I don't have anything to compare it to. Does this gasket have the correct number of holes? As I said before, there are several that are on both the head and block but are closed off by the gasket. How can you tell if it is OEM? And what is the mechanical difference?

IMAG0598.jpg
 
The Toyota gasket is superior, and at a glance you can tell. Larger fire rings, copper sealers around the push rod and oil return holes.

There are lots of pix around, of comparisons, if you have time to search.

And have the oil galley plug fixed while the head is off (search), if it hasn't been done already.


img_2492-jpg.600412
 
Searching for parts is maddening. Any advice for good reliable places? After a fair but of searching I found a head gasket kit for $260. It doesn't say OEM, but the picture shows the copper rings around the posh rod holes.
 
get in touch with Beno on this board...pm him...toyota parts guy, thats his user name.
 
Yes, that's a Genuine Toyota kit. But if you're having your head done by a shop, you won't need all those parts, unless they'll allow you to buy and they'll install the valve seals, etc.

You can prolly get the kit cheaper, or individual parts that you'll need by PM-ing or emailing or calling BENO (Mud user name), heathen name, Onur, who is a Land Cruiser parts guru at a Toyota dealership in Georgia, somewhere, and he gives 25% discount to MUD members and ships anywhere ...


His contact info:

4146.jpg


Little hard to read, but his phone is 678-987-6423 You can email him, too.

(Elb beat me to it).

Has your OIL GALLEY PLUG BEEN FIXED?

https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/oil-galley-plug-fixes.346362/#post5103955
 
Last edited:
Thanks for all the great info! Especially for the heads up on the oil galley plug. Should be an easy fix since I have the head off. Any other advice on what I should have done to the head while it's off?
 
Buy a couple six-packs of top-shelf beer for the friends you're gonna invite over to help you lift that motha back on....

Clean the block surface well.

Read some of the write-ups.

Realize there's a correct-way and wrong way for the rocker arm assy to go on. It should go on easily - there's a notch in the rocker shaft that orients to one of the tower bolts so the oil holes in the shaft line up properly. Look at it and you'll see what I mean. Assy has been put on 180* out more than once.

Any other Q's just ask! It's a lot easier to do it right the 1st time.

btw, in your pic, that head looks awfully carboned up. Running way rich, it seems. Maybe time for a carb rebuild ? Where are you? Can you desmog the motor in your area ?

Good luck!
 
Thanks for the point on the rocker shaft. Very good to know, I hadn't noticed that. Assuming my head isn't cracked I plan on desmoging. I've contacted Jim C about getting a rebuilt carb and recurved distributor. If the head is no good I'm about 50/ 50 on getting a Chevy v8 instead.
 
IIRC the head gasket alone is NLA from Toyota, you had to buy the valve re grind kit, which includes the head gasket.
 
Thanks for all the great info! Especially for the heads up on the oil galley plug. Should be an easy fix since I have the head off. Any other advice on what I should have done to the head while it's off?


mill the deck surface AND the manifold surface for flatness. if the valves and guides are good, grind the valves, seats and knurl the guides as needed. new valve stem seals. have the manifolds milled for flatness as well. rebuilt carb. flap on gasket goes at the BACK...
 
Thanks for the point on the rocker shaft. Very good to know, I hadn't noticed that. Assuming my head isn't cracked I plan on desmoging. I've contacted Jim C about getting a rebuilt carb and recurved distributor. If the head is no good I'm about 50/ 50 on getting a Chevy v8 instead.

Sounds like you've got it covered... But FWIW, sourcing a new head, should you need it, is way way less than a V8 conv. Let us know how it goes.
 
Actually, HG is available separately.

The valve grind kit is discontinued but the engine gasket kit is still available.

:)


So does the engine gasket kit include the HG? When I did my HG last year I used part # 04112-61041, did I use a valve grind kit?
 
So does the engine gasket kit include the HG? When I did my HG last year I used part # 04112-61041, did I use a valve grind kit?


Sorry Zach. You are correct. I hadn't had my Sanka yet this morning when I posted.

Corrected info: HG is still available and valve grind kit is available.

Late engine gasket kit is discontinued.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom