Front Axle Rebuild (3 Viewers)

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Yep. Sorry. Molly grease in the knuckle and high temp for the wheel bearings.
 
Howdy all, wondering what's up with nuts and bolts on my Aisin flanges. I have been rebuilding the birfs on my 1981 FJ43, and the job is complete...but I destroyed several nuts and washers torquing them down to spec - ~23ft lbs. I went back to the manual, and it shows a range of 18.1 to 25.3, and decided to try and torque to 20ftlbs, which worked with an upgrade to grade 10 hardware. The hub studs on the flange hold up, as do the cone washers. It's just the nuts and lock washers - one of which I also destroyed attempting to get to 23 ft lbs. Any ideas out there?
 
Howdy all, wondering what's up with nuts and bolts on my Aisin flanges. I have been rebuilding the birfs on my 1981 FJ43, and the job is complete...but I destroyed several nuts and washers torquing them down to spec - ~23ft lbs. I went back to the manual, and it shows a range of 18.1 to 25.3, and decided to try and torque to 20ftlbs, which worked with an upgrade to grade 10 hardware. The hub studs on the flange hold up, as do the cone washers. It's just the nuts and lock washers - one of which I also destroyed attempting to get to 23 ft lbs. Any ideas out there?
On the hub face? I just use some blue loctite and snug them up good and tight.
 
So I bought a Monroe SC2916 steering stabilizer after reading several pla es that it was a good inexpensive option. However, like a few others have experienced the hardware is slightly too big to fit in the holes on the stock location. Any Ideas how/where to get the right bolt size?
 
Help us help you with a picture.
U-bolts? Is that what you’re referring to?
Are you asking where to find different sizes of hardware?
 
So I bought a Monroe SC2916 steering stabilizer after reading several pla es that it was a good inexpensive option. However, like a few others have experienced the hardware is slightly too big to fit in the holes on the stock location. Any Ideas how/where to get the right bolt size?

Maybe the info in this thread will help.
 
Thanks @B y r o n

I did see that thread. Was hoping somebody had figured out how to do it without buying a second stabilizer.
 
OK. I got it all back together. Rebuilt axle, new tie rod ends, and drag link, rebuilt center arm, and rebuilt steering box. Feeling pretty good about myself for getting that job done. Except for removing all the old crusted up dirt and grease, it was pretty fun and rewarding, really. Glad I did it myself.

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I'm having a bit of an issue with my steering not wanting to return to center after I turn the wheel. I've adjusted the steering box to take out the slop and thought I tightened too far, but after loosening back up until there was lots of slop/play in the column it is still having the same problem. No steering stabilizer on there yet, still trying to get the right hardware to mount it. It seams like a steering stabilizer would only make it worse though. I have had the truck professionally aligned by a trusted shop. Any thoughts?
 
Was the steering box centered when the pitman arm was installed? Was the steering wheel installed with the steering box centered? What are the alignment numbers?
 
Here’s the 60 series Monroe equivalent installed with a Scout II steering conversion.
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The fixed end was relocated 3.5-4” over to allow for the extra travel (length).
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Try a little bit more toe-in
 
I know the pitman arm was installed with the steering box centered. The steering wheel is on center as well unless I'm missing something there that is not obvious. I know my caster needs improved from what the alignment tells me. I've got some 2 degree shims on the way, but my understanding is that they are not likely to help with re-centering problem more just to help keep it from wondering. I was surprised to find the caster off by as much as it is. I don't have very long shackles in the front and I didn't ever notice a tendency to wander or chase ruts in the road before my rebuild. I've had a cruiser in the past that had problems like that that was much worse and shims fixed the problem for sure. What I'm dealing with I would describe as sticky steering maybe.
Here is a picture of my alignment read out.

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I keep my toe in at 1/8" to 1/4". If everything in the front axle is new you shouldn't need a steering stabilizer. Haven't run one for 20 years since I did the spring over and rebuilt the front axle.
 
I keep my toe in at 1/8" to 1/4". If everything in the front axle is new you shouldn't need a steering stabilizer. Haven't run one for 20 years since I did the spring over and rebuilt the front axle.
Yes. I've heard this about a stabilizer so I wasn't too worried about getting one on there right away.
 
I know the pitman arm was installed with the steering box centered. The steering wheel is on center as well unless I'm missing something there that is not obvious. I know my caster needs improved from what the alignment tells me. I've got some 2 degree shims on the way, but my understanding is that they are not likely to help with re-centering problem more just to help keep it from wondering. I was surprised to find the caster off by as much as it is. I don't have very long shackles in the front and I didn't ever notice a tendency to wander or chase ruts in the road before my rebuild. I've had a cruiser in the past that had problems like that that was much worse and shims fixed the problem for sure. What I'm dealing with I would describe as sticky steering maybe.
Here is a picture of my alignment read out.

View attachment 3569768

I'm having a bit of an issue with my steering not wanting to return to center after I turn the wheel. I've adjusted the steering box to take out the slop and thought I tightened too far, but after loosening back up until there was lots of slop/play in the column it is still having the same problem. No steering stabilizer on there yet, still trying to get the right hardware to mount it. It seams like a steering stabilizer would only make it worse though. I have had the truck professionally aligned by a trusted shop. Any thoughts?
You have to adjust the center arm. If it is too tight, steering will not return to center, too loose increases wobble.

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You have to adjust the center arm. If it is too tight, steering will not return to center, too loose increases wobble.

View attachment 3569915
OK. I thought that could be an issue. I knew I got it a little tight to begin with but I backed it off another 1/4 turn and it became much easier to move the tires back and forth whule the front end was on the jack stands. I figured I got it loosened up enough, but I'll back it off another 1/4 turn and sew if that helps. Thanks for the suggestion.
 
Unfortunately I don't think the centerarm is my issue. I've got the top bolt loose enough I can nearly turn it by hand and still what feels like some sort of binding in the steering. Just backing off the top bolt is the only way to adjust the center arm correct?

I'm pretty sure my problem is not the caster. Though, I will fix my caster as soon as the shims get here. I can be going 15 mph in my little subdivision turn a corner and unless I pull the steering wheel back to center after the corner, I will run into the curb in short order.
 
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Positive caster helps the wheel to return to center. If your preloads are too tight there maybe to much resistance to return to center regardless of how much caster you have. I would prefer to have more caster than the factory +1*. Was your rebuilds of the box and center arm assembled per the fsm?
 

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