80 or 100 brake pads? (1 Viewer)

[rowdyrabbit]

I'm in the middle of rebuilding The front axle on my 93, and I'm going to replace the pads while I've got it apart. They still have some life, but not much. And the passenger side grooved up the rotor pretty bad for some reason. I've read through several brake threads, but I'm seeing conflicting information on which pads to use.

Are the 100 series pads a direct drop in replacement, no modifications needed? They will still use the regular 80 series rotors, or do they use a 100 rotor? Some things said the 100's needed slotted rotors, most said they didn't. If they are a direct replacement, is there any reason not to use them?

I know it's been covered plenty of times, but I'm looking to clear up the confusion.

Thanks

 

[mervo]

Direct drop in for sure. Slotted rotors NOT needed.

I have 100 series in my 80 and it took some effort getting them in by lightly tapping with the rubber mallet.

Call/email @beno , he'll set you up, answer any questions you have, and give you the best deal going.

 

[MLX450]

100 pads on the 80 rotor (front only). No modification needed.

 

[inkpot]

Tried 100 pads once. Not impressed: stopped my rig about the same as 80 pads. Did not like the way the 100 pads overhang the outer edge of the rotor. As they wear down, it can leave a false lip. It's harmless, but it LOOKS like there is a lot more pad in the caliper than there really is when looked at from under the rig. Wheels must be removed and pads observed from end of caliper to see ACTUAL amount of pad material remaining. Seems like a lot of extra work, as I like to spot check my brakes often.

 

[hikermike]

Ceramic pads are for passenger cars, SUV's need organic/asbestos pads secondary to heat build up. Drilled rotors are for looks, slotted may cool better. Huge 80 rotors have those tiny pads and I get only 10,000 miles if towing. Our Sequoia gets 80,000 miles towing. Will upgrade to bigger rotors etc on FJ80 when next change comes.

 

[etx]

I ordered akebono 100 series pads and they fit fine, with the backplates. I have a 96 1fzfe

 

[Funner]

Tried 100 pads once. Not impressed: stopped my rig about the same as 80 pads. Did not like the way the 100 pads overhang the outer edge of the rotor. As they wear down, it can leave a false lip. It's harmless, but it LOOKS like there is a lot more pad in the caliper than there really is when looked at from under the rig. Wheels must be removed and pads observed from end of caliper to see ACTUAL amount of pad material remaining. Seems like a lot of extra work, as I like to spot check my brakes often.

Didn't do anything for me either and I had to do some grinding on the 100 pads to get them to fit correctly. I eventually pulled them and tossed in trash replacing with 80 series pads. Back in the day all the cool kids were doing it, not so sure now.

 

[Scottbonnar]

if the 100 series pads are no good, then what do people recommend for 80 pads?

 

[Funner]

if the 100 series pads are no good, then what do people recommend for 80 pads?

I have had good luck with OEM and high quality NAPA pads for an 80 series.

 

[benjrblant]

I use the 80 series OEM pads, shims, springs, etc etc. Currently running 305/70r16 tires and bearing in mind that I'm operating a 20 year old 5,000lb box on wheels, it stops well.

Edit for clarity: 80 series pads.

 

[cruiserdan]

I have been running 100 Series pads on two 8os for many years. It is important to start with a fresh flat rotor surface and leave the shims out. I just replaced the front 100 pads on my wife's 80 a month ago. They were 8 and 1/2 years old and still had a bit left.

 

[93yotasr5]

I've been running them for about 2 years or so. New rotors and 100 series pads. no issues.

 

[fl4031003]

I installed 100 pads at 100k back in 2010, 34k later they still have about 75% left. At this rate I have another 10 years before I need pads

 

[LXDOC]

100 series pads. Lots of choices besides OEM. Shims out.

 

[1973Guppie]

I tried the 100 series pads, meh. I chalk those up to mud mania. I have had much better results with EBC greenstuff pads.

 

[milemarker60]

+1 on Akebono, been running for years on heavy Rovers and my tow rigs as well (Carbotech on track cars). Yes there is a minuscule amount of extra surface contact between 100 and 80 that you'll probably never feel...we are running 100s w/o shims on Mitch's rig. Biggest consideration is compound as not all semi-metallic or ceramics are created equal. Ceramics are still an organic pad they simply substitute a non metallic material in the compound. Akebonos are a ceramic compound so they will provide a different feel and have an operating temp which does not cause a dangerous situation in sub-freezing conditions. If your rig has been sitting out in super cold weather, the first pedal press will be harder but only takes one cycle to heat up to a normal feel. In no way do they feel less capable, just a slightly harder pedal. With that said, I've been in several situations where similar rigs had brakes starting to fade off-roading while ours never deteriorated. They still do dust but dramatically less than a semi-metallic. Never have I had an issues with premature rotor wear, warping or noise and they seem to outlast my ownership of the rigs I've installed them on. Can typically be purchased for $40-$50 per set so very reasonable but I pay up for OEM rotors as I'll get two runs out of them almost all the time (turning before the second).

I have found that the bed-in procedure to be more critical on the Akebons vs a typical semi-metallic to ensure the best possible bite and mating to the rotors. They say it's not necessary but without bedding them in it's pretty noticeable for several hundred miles. I bed them in like I would a track-compound pad without doing progressively faster "hot laps". Hop on the highway at night with no traffic, go thru three aggressive near-stops (if you've got ABS take it to its limits) increasing the speed with each one (45, 60, 75). Then drive long enough to cool them down and repeat the process. They will be hot enough to exhibit fade and make sure not to actually come to a stop and hold the car in place with the brakes as the heat can cause the pads to fuse a bit of the compound to the hot rotors in that spot and cool unevenly. Always start with a freshly turned rotor or new ones.

EBCs are a great choice as well for a semi-metallic option and even have a special coating that transfers to the rotor during bedding. They suggest driving like grandma for a 100 miles and that's it for the bed-in. Ran them several times over the years as well without issue.

Never had much luck with Hawk pads...always seemed challenging to get rid of the noise. Stopped fine.

ACT772 Fronts (100 series)
ACT502 Fronts (80 series)
ACT606 Rears

 

[retrofive]

I tried the 100 series pads, meh. I chalk those up to mud mania. I have had much better results with EBC greenstuff pads.

But have you tried the EBC greenstuff for the 100 on the 80.

 

[BILT4ME]

I am running the PowerStop pads on the front (100 series) as well as the drilled and slotted rotors and have had good results in 28K miles. I have about half the pads left. I used the K23 version. I bought them from Summit Racing, but they are not carrying that version anymore.

I used the K23 pads on the rear, and they only lasted 1000 miles due to a dragging caliper that I still need to change out. (K23-606)

I will be using the O'Reilly Auto Brake Best ceramic pads on the front (100 series) for the next round since my son works there and I get them CHEAP.

I do VERY little off-roading (but lots of mall-crawling!) and this combo works OK for me. I do NO towing.

 

[Haring Bagsik]

I'm about to replace my brake pads, so is it 100 series pads on the front and 80 pads on the rear or front & rear can take the 100 series pads?

 

[OGBeno]

04465-60220 Fronts
04466-60020 rears

That's it.