- Thread starter
- #21
That is true. Used a chain hoist attached to the frontend load to exhume the injured motor from his truck. Chain hoist was great for "easing" the motor out, avoiding damage to the radiator. That and a piece of paneling.
Engine Removal Adventure (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter MisipLC
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #22
I called yesterday to learn our beloved 1FZ FE is in need of a crankshaft transplant. Mr. Beard thought he had a suitable donor, but later was told the provider was mistaken - but would keep looking. With new ones costing an exurbanite $884 (with shipping), one from a truck used by ganny Smith for short trips to the market and light rock crawling was certainly in order. Mr. Beard struck out, so I took up the challenge and went to the trusty IH8MUD to find a replacement. FloridaCruiser813 and ginericLC mounted their trusty computers and offered up reliable donors at reasonable prices. I truly felt the love. So hopefully a suitable donor will soon arrive in Oxford to bring our 1FZ FE back to life. Being one truck down in a 3 car fam is brutal.
Stay tuned Mudders, the story ain't over yet.
- Thread starter
- #23
While down, Bryant and I are taking the opportunity to add high quality sound insulation to the interior of the truck to add great comfort to the already inspiring ride.
We removed all of the handle and other hardware, after "search" and "reading" posts on the subject.
One of the helpful hints we found was how to remove the seat belt covers. Here are the clips. You need to lift on the edge of the plastic to release the tabs, being cautious not to break the tabs off.
Pulling the plastic trim pieces loose revealed the clips holding them, and we had a better idea of how that worked.
We removed all of the handle and other hardware, after "search" and "reading" posts on the subject.
One of the helpful hints we found was how to remove the seat belt covers. Here are the clips. You need to lift on the edge of the plastic to release the tabs, being cautious not to break the tabs off.
Pulling the plastic trim pieces loose revealed the clips holding them, and we had a better idea of how that worked.
- Thread starter
- #24
The rubber seals around the door came loose no problem.
We learned the trim at the back of the truck is the real key to getting the headliner loose. This hard trim around the rear opening really is the attach point for the rear of the headliner. Everything else supported it throughout the cab.
Once the roof lights, door trim, handles, plastic trim and trim on back were off, the liner came out without an issue. We were very cautious removing the liner so we did not have to order a new one from cdan.
We learned the trim at the back of the truck is the real key to getting the headliner loose. This hard trim around the rear opening really is the attach point for the rear of the headliner. Everything else supported it throughout the cab.
Once the roof lights, door trim, handles, plastic trim and trim on back were off, the liner came out without an issue. We were very cautious removing the liner so we did not have to order a new one from cdan.
- Thread starter
- #25
In addition to working on the interior of the truck, Bryant and I are having to replace the roof rack. It seems that his mother, oblivious to its proximity to the truck, tore the OEM rack from the roof of the truck with a cloths line. She said, "I heard a noise, but did not think anything about it." She promised to rectify the problem - I being the "rectifier".
So, I searched out a design for a roof rack. Then to my design, pictures from the internet of the Gobi, to a friendly welder and here it what we wound up with. The story of the construction of the rack is a story for another day and case of beer.
We first planned on powder or Rhino coating. We have a powder coater near by that can coat things as large as dumpsters. After reading posts, we decided spay paint was the way to go. Concern with Rhino Coating being damage to the coating would cause it to peal and repair would be difficult. Powder coating did not appear to have an advantage of spray paint. If scratched, all that would be needed would be a little sand paper and a can of paint. Powder coating could be repaired the same way. But, if you are going to spray paint a repair, then why not spray paint the entire rack? Then repairs would match the original paint. And why go to the expense to powder coat if you would repair with spray paint? So, 2 coats of Rustolium primer and several coats of flat black were applied.
The plan is to clear coat the rack to give it a hard shell protecting the paint.
So, I searched out a design for a roof rack. Then to my design, pictures from the internet of the Gobi, to a friendly welder and here it what we wound up with. The story of the construction of the rack is a story for another day and case of beer.
We first planned on powder or Rhino coating. We have a powder coater near by that can coat things as large as dumpsters. After reading posts, we decided spay paint was the way to go. Concern with Rhino Coating being damage to the coating would cause it to peal and repair would be difficult. Powder coating did not appear to have an advantage of spray paint. If scratched, all that would be needed would be a little sand paper and a can of paint. Powder coating could be repaired the same way. But, if you are going to spray paint a repair, then why not spray paint the entire rack? Then repairs would match the original paint. And why go to the expense to powder coat if you would repair with spray paint? So, 2 coats of Rustolium primer and several coats of flat black were applied.
The plan is to clear coat the rack to give it a hard shell protecting the paint.
Nice project! Cool to see another MS member around. MS to DC transplant myself. If you've already completed it, how much sound deadening (dynamat perhaps) did it take to complete? Planning this for mine and wanted to get an estimate before ordering.
- Thread starter
- #27
I am using Frosting King self adhesive duct insulation. There are a lot of threads in a lot of forums on
sound proofing a vehicle. And there are a lot of opinions out there on the subject. One of the common themes is that your truck cannot be soundproofed. It is actually "sound deadening". What you are trying to do is reduce the noise caused by the vibration of your truck's steal body panels, thus changing the frequency of the vibrations. To stop the panel from vibrating, weight equal to 3 or so times the panel's weight must be added. That is impractical. Fatmat, Dynamat and the like are "generally" product made of butyl rubber, aluminum backing and an adhesive - simplified. Peel and Seal has been used, and there are number of videos on the subject. The issue most have is the smell. Peel and seal is a tar based product. I used Tite Seal as it more butyl rubber based.
The product you are looking at has jute as the insulator. Some form of closed cell foam is better as it helps create a barrier that absorbs sound that passes through the butyl rubber layer. Adding a third layer of closed foam completes the package.
This seems to be the basic system sold by all the commercial sound proofing suppliers. I order some 1/2" closed foam from Zoro.com.
We used it under the front carpet. I also use Blue Hawk Gray Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat from Lowes under the carpet between front and back seats. it is thicker and I think I like the product better than the closed cell foam for under carpet. The mat has a hard coating to help with blocking sound.
And finally, I put an tread mill mat from Academy Sports in the rear, cargo area. I had this and the thinner material will work better for the box we plan to put in.
The fatigue mat can be purchased at $4.95 a foot, 3 feet wide. I want to compare that to cost of Dynamat and Fatmat. Lesser costing commercial materials are said to be thinner, requiring the application of 2 layer, or more, bring the cost back up to that of Dynamat or Fatmat. I have not compared pricing, but the Frost King covered a lot of Truck. I used 6 rolls covering floor, sides, roof, doors. We may put some under the hood.
I may have paid as much as would have had I purchased the fat mat for the closed foam layer. I am going to glue some I had left over in the roof, between the spars to help with sound absorption.
There are several threads on sound proofing, just do a search.
Hope this helps.
sound proofing a vehicle. And there are a lot of opinions out there on the subject. One of the common themes is that your truck cannot be soundproofed. It is actually "sound deadening". What you are trying to do is reduce the noise caused by the vibration of your truck's steal body panels, thus changing the frequency of the vibrations. To stop the panel from vibrating, weight equal to 3 or so times the panel's weight must be added. That is impractical. Fatmat, Dynamat and the like are "generally" product made of butyl rubber, aluminum backing and an adhesive - simplified. Peel and Seal has been used, and there are number of videos on the subject. The issue most have is the smell. Peel and seal is a tar based product. I used Tite Seal as it more butyl rubber based.
The product you are looking at has jute as the insulator. Some form of closed cell foam is better as it helps create a barrier that absorbs sound that passes through the butyl rubber layer. Adding a third layer of closed foam completes the package.
This seems to be the basic system sold by all the commercial sound proofing suppliers. I order some 1/2" closed foam from Zoro.com.
We used it under the front carpet. I also use Blue Hawk Gray Anti-Fatigue Floor Mat from Lowes under the carpet between front and back seats. it is thicker and I think I like the product better than the closed cell foam for under carpet. The mat has a hard coating to help with blocking sound.
And finally, I put an tread mill mat from Academy Sports in the rear, cargo area. I had this and the thinner material will work better for the box we plan to put in.
The fatigue mat can be purchased at $4.95 a foot, 3 feet wide. I want to compare that to cost of Dynamat and Fatmat. Lesser costing commercial materials are said to be thinner, requiring the application of 2 layer, or more, bring the cost back up to that of Dynamat or Fatmat. I have not compared pricing, but the Frost King covered a lot of Truck. I used 6 rolls covering floor, sides, roof, doors. We may put some under the hood.
I may have paid as much as would have had I purchased the fat mat for the closed foam layer. I am going to glue some I had left over in the roof, between the spars to help with sound absorption.
There are several threads on sound proofing, just do a search.
Hope this helps.
Thanks for the info!
- Thread starter
- #29
Being in north of the Mason-Dickson line, you may be able to find a product called Ice and Water Shield by Grace. It is a butyl rubber roof membrane that should mimic the commercial materials. There is also a material used for waterproofing basement walls. A friendly contractor with a piece of a roll would really be nice.
- Thread starter
- #30
We have the motor back and can't get it aligned with the transmission. We are baffled. The engine will not mate up with the transmission. It is just an inch away, but will not get there. The engine is a 1/8 of an inch lower, and we can't get it up. Every time we move the engine the transmission comes with it. And today, it was 32 degrees and my forced air heater would just could not keep up with the shop door open. The day we started it was warm.
Are you sure the torque converter is in all the way or did you leave it installed when you took the motor out?
Greasing the mating surface of the TConv. and flywheel might help a bit also.
Greasing the mating surface of the TConv. and flywheel might help a bit also.
- Thread starter
- #33
The torque converter stayed in the trans when we pulled the engine.
- Thread starter
- #35
Now that you said that slow95z, we may need to pull them apart to make sure the holes in the fly wheel align with the bolt holes in the torque converter.
- Thread starter
- #36
Got a broken plug and can't find a replacement. Part number 9098011086
try Easternbeaver.com, or toyotapartsoverstock.com
- Thread starter
- #40
We have not cranked it over yet. Buttoning up some final odds and ends.
Have this bracket and can't recall where it goes
The interior is coming together as well. We are getting close.
