- Thread starter
- #81
1
Root Beer Float, my 1990 HZJ77 (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter broth9640
- Start date
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Eco 45
Supporting Vendor
Turbo
Although some people do it, it is always best to add some type of cooling system to the turbo and the air it is moving around this is usually done in one of three ways.
1. Using the engines coolant---doesn't require a lot of space, but it adds stress to your cooling system and additional leaking points.
2. Separate coolant system with small radiator for the turbo or also known as air to water system. This system can help cool the air and the turbo but can take up a lot of space. It also may require electrical connections to run pumps and fans.
3. Air to air system using an inter-cooler that helps reduce the temps of the air going into the engine thus helping to reduce the temps coming out of the engine and into the turbo.
These engines are great on the flats, but start climbing hills and they start to work hard. If your turbo doesn't have an adequate cooling system your egr temps will rise quickly. Keep them high too long and you risk turbo failure. If the turbo fails badly you risk engine failure. Rule of thumb is to keep the egr temps below 1200F or 648C. And the further you can keep the egr temps from those numbers the longer the turbo is likely to last.
Although some people do it, it is always best to add some type of cooling system to the turbo and the air it is moving around this is usually done in one of three ways.
1. Using the engines coolant---doesn't require a lot of space, but it adds stress to your cooling system and additional leaking points.
2. Separate coolant system with small radiator for the turbo or also known as air to water system. This system can help cool the air and the turbo but can take up a lot of space. It also may require electrical connections to run pumps and fans.
3. Air to air system using an inter-cooler that helps reduce the temps of the air going into the engine thus helping to reduce the temps coming out of the engine and into the turbo.
These engines are great on the flats, but start climbing hills and they start to work hard. If your turbo doesn't have an adequate cooling system your egr temps will rise quickly. Keep them high too long and you risk turbo failure. If the turbo fails badly you risk engine failure. Rule of thumb is to keep the egr temps below 1200F or 648C. And the further you can keep the egr temps from those numbers the longer the turbo is likely to last.
- Thread starter
- #84
Yep, that's about what I pulled out too.
- Thread starter
- #85
A few more. I am so used too rusty and crusty, this thing feels brand new. I am just hanging out at the coffee shop waiting for the exhaust to be repaired.
- Thread starter
- #86
Here is a picture of the old 2" turbo dump pipe. It's currently in the shop being replaced with a larger dump pipe and will connect to a flex pipe before connecting back to the 3" exhaust. Stay tuned for more pics after the upgrade.
- Thread starter
- #87
Sounds like the easiest and cleanest way to do this is to keep what I have in place. Do you think I need to keep the extra coolers attached to the cooling and oil systems?
- Thread starter
- #88
Looks a lot better than the before photo! Is there a hanger on that section or is the flex pipe acting as the hanger? I'm not an exhaust guru - so maybe that isn't even an issue?
- Thread starter
- #90
No hanger for that section since its vertical,it just hangs from the turbo exhaust flange.
- Thread starter
- #91
Ended up using 2.5 inch in order to keep enough clearance between the body and the drive shaft. She drives really nice. I didn't expect to see much of a difference, but she is a lot quieter and she excellerates a little smoother too. Cost a little more than I had planned, but worth it.
DanS HJ-45
SILVER Star
I'll bet money on AA.
AA Performance Muffler - Englewood, Colorado - Family-owned and operated installing custom performance muffler, exhaust systems and brakes in the Denver area and beyond.
It's who most everyone who is anyone in Denver uses. And, there's a coffee shop real close.
Broth: will you be home tomorrow around noon? If so, I might have to stop by to hear it with an intact exhaust now!
Dan
- Thread starter
- #94
I will be home at noon. Shoot me a text
- Thread starter
- #95
Yes indeed, it was AA performance. Great guy to work with.
Eco 45
Supporting Vendor
How do you plan on using the truck? Extra coolers if done well do help. I would go through and update all the lines to the coolers for a little piece of mind. Usually if a turbo is setup for coolant than the manufacturer wanted it to be used that way for the health of the turbo. A good EGR gauge will tell you lots on your daily driving on how your engine is handling the turbo. It also depends on how the fueling was set up. If you are at higher altitude you may need to reduce the fuel if it was turned up based on sea level.
Does EVERY 7x glove box door have a dent in it?
That exhaust work looks great! I've had good and bad experiences at exhaust shops - so I can appreciate the nice fit!
Does EVERY 7x glove box door have a dent in it?
Hello,
It seems many 70 Series POs damage or at least dent their glove boxes. Some even damage the latch mechanism.
From my experience, glove box damage is often related to more damage on the rest of the Cruiser. A dent in a door that opens and closes freely is not necessarily a concern. On the other hand, a hard to open door means trouble.
My FZJ73 has a dent. My FZJ71 does not.
My two cents.
Juan
Dan, How do you know those aren't just "character" markings? Kinda like wrinkles on an old guy.Does EVERY 7x glove box door have a dent in it?
