Need your experienced eyes (2 Viewers)

[TexAble]

Hey guys,

New member and first post, but I was curious if I could ask for some help from some experienced FJ40 owners. I always wanted to restore an old CJ7, but after owning my FJ Cruiser I am now wanting to restore an FJ40 instead. Have been looking for a very short time, but found one that I think looks like it may have good bones, but looks pretty awful at first look. I took a ton of pictures and wouldn't want to post them here. It is listed as a 71 model (Sept 70 on the tag). It appears to have only some surface rust, but I am no expert. I don't see much for serious rust, but it could be a god awful paint job is hiding it. Not sure about the rules of the forum, but wondering if I was to put all the photos in a shared folder on something like dropbox, if anyone would be willing to tell me what they see.

 

[upperblack]

Throw the photos in drop box or similar and you will have the most experienced eyes on the planet (this forum) review every nook and cranny and will provide great guidance.

I have a 12/70 myself and will be happy to comment on the photos

 

[78fj40mg]

Welcome to MUD!

Post lots of pics and we'll take good care of you.

 

[SouthBostonFJ40]

I would post them to photobucket and then post the IMG links here.

 

[TexAble]

Ok. I've never used PhotoBucket so I am hoping this works.

ablepalacios's Library

Apologies for the blurriness of some of the shots.

Thanks all for the assist.

 

[TexAble]

I forgot to mention, the car was able to be started with a battery boost and some engine spray in where the carb should have been I believe. It sounded pretty good once it got going. The headlights turned on and all the side lights except for the front right fender. I forgot to check the taillights, but they were not on when the headlights were on so they may need some work. I also did not try the turn signals. I was trying to get a good look at everything and pics from a lot of angles. It appeared there was only one small leak spot under the car towards the front. The engine sounded pretty strong. There may be a video of it that was able to upload.

Just to give you guys an idea of what I am looking for. This is all new for me. I would like a project car that will not be a complete frame off restore, but something that I could get running and looking somewhat decent for a fun summer vehicle. Like I said, I own an FJ Cruiser and really have fallen for the FJ's. If I was have this work out the way that I would like, I would want to get it mechanically sound, while getting the exterior/interior ready for a decent makeover. For this one that would be reupholstering the seats, getting the back jump seats, maybe line the interior with something like a Rhino lining, and sanding down the exterior if possible to get a decent paint job. Obviously new tires, brakes, and anything else that would make it a good weekend cruiser. Not looking for much highway driving either, just around town.

 

[upperblack]

Plenty others will comment but I'll take the first stab.
It's a factory soft top model which is cool and kinda rare. It still has the tail gate and soft doors but I don't see the soft top bows.
The original engine has been swapped out for a later model 2f which many would consider an upgrade.
The whole truck looks pretty complete with some exceptions.
It's not the original carb
Column shift covered to floor shift. When he put the 2f in maybe he covered to a 4 speed?
Headers have replaced the exhaust manifold.
Auxiliary fuel tank added
The roll bar is not original
Missing fan shroud.
Missing rear jump seats but they are easy to find.
Obviously it's been painted and body work done to it.
Rust looks pretty minimal from the pics.
Looks like the original color was Capri blue which is cool
From what I see he's probably asking $8k for it.
I'll keep looking at the pics

 

[ginmtb]

Wow that is a mish-mash of many different years. How much are they asking for it? I'm guessing there is some bondo work under the crackling paint - you can see it on the doors and rear quarters. Do the magnet test (with tape over the magnet so you don't scratch it lol) to see. Interesting that they welded on the hooks to the frame when the bolt holes are right there. It doesn't look like a horrible one to start with, but if they want a big chunk of change then I would reconsider. The true experts will chime in and give you better advice/info. They've forgotten more than I know about 40's...

 

[Indygbd]

I looked at this for another member a week or so ago. It is pretty solid and as stated is a fst model. It is worth more in parts than the guy wants for it so I think it is a good purchase. The other member decided against it because of the items not correct for the year as mentioned above. (Engine conversion, trans conversion, hardtop, roll bar, ect...) I don't think you will find a much better buy in the Midwest for a solid fj40. The doors are fst model doors patched over which is why they look so hacked up. I am restoring a 72 fst model here in Indiana so if you need parts I may have what you need depending on your project/restoration ideas.

 

[sggoat]

From the extensive pics you posted, this looks like just the rig you were looking for. I don't see any rust "Pits" in any of the pics--just surface stuff--(of course the bezel is upside down and bent-but easily fixed)
My limited knowledge--this truck is in great shape cosmetically--certainly doesn't look like a frame-off candidate--there does appear to be some filler on the body, tho'
The small leak is prob. the T-case rear seal---easy-peasy to replace
For the drive train--if you get it-change ALL the fluids(cooling too). Check the steering box/center arm/tres for play.
Get a good compression tester to make sure the pistons are sealing good. run the engine and squirt some carb cleaner around the carb and intake to make sure there are no vac leaks
Fill the tank and drive it-----

 

[Landpimp]

its not a bad one, it looks solid enough and seems to suit your needs. No clue on price.

 

[Indygbd]

its not a bad one, it looks solid enough and seems to suit your needs. No clue on price.

5,000.00 is what he said he would take for it.

 

[upperblack]

5,000.00 is what he said he would take for it.

I would jump on that

 

[Indygbd]

I would jump on that

I have 3 fj40's now or I would have bought it. I think it's a good buy.

 

[bikersmurf]

Looks to be a decent truck... when I saw the pealing clear coat, I suspected a fair amount of bondo. Some pics show bondo cracking off, but i suspect there is more. I'd bring a magnet and search for the bondo, and assess what lies beneath. I've seen too many decent looking trucks that weren't what they appeared to be.

 

[TexAble]

Thanks everyone for all the input. He is asking $5900 so that was some great info as to what he might except. I was thinking something in that range. If I could ask a few follow up questions, your input would again be appreciated

1. I couldn't drive it because it was parked in a garage and didn't get that far into. Having said that, what should I be looking for during a short drive, considering I can drive it? What if I can't drive it for some reason?

2. The car is in Chicago, but he says it is titled in Utah (has a Utah License plate). What are the odds I could be getting scammed? Never bought a car for straight cash from someone with title in hand so it makes me nervous. Any advice?

3. Is the mix match of parts and years something that would make this a major PITA to fix up?

4. I noticed the 2 gas fillers and I had read that later models had the gas tank moved under the body. I was surprised to see that in this model, it looks like there is a gas tank right below the passenger seat. Do you think it is still used or is that why there is a secondary filler, as to not be forced to use the tank under the seat? If that tank is not used, should it be removed?

5. Does it appear from the photos that adding the rear jump seats would be difficult? Need those for the kids and hoping that wouldn't be a major issue to get them installed. Is that non-factory roll bar going to be a problem?

6. What is with the good awful paint job? What causes it to look like that? Looks like they sprayed it with a bubble wand.

7. Is it safe to assume that the hard top would come right off this FJ and go back on easily? I didn't really evaluate how it is locked on and like I said I am new. Just wanting to make sure it's not welded on there somehow. Ultimately, I would prefer to leave the top off for the majority of its life.

8. What would you do to this FJ if you were had it?

Thanks all. Hoping to be part of the forum more in the future.

 

[TexAble]

Wow that is a mish-mash of many different years. How much are they asking for it? I'm guessing there is some bondo work under the crackling paint - you can see it on the doors and rear quarters. Do the magnet test (with tape over the magnet so you don't scratch it lol) to see. Interesting that they welded on the hooks to the frame when the bolt holes are right there. It doesn't look like a horrible one to start with, but if they want a big chunk of change then I would reconsider. The true experts will chime in and give you better advice/info. They've forgotten more than I know about 40's...

I forgot to acknowledge the good laugh I got from your reply. I definitely would not want to scratch it.

 

[Poser]

2. The car is in Chicago, but he says it is titled in Utah (has a Utah License plate). What are the odds I could be getting scammed? Never bought a car for straight cash from someone with title in hand so it makes me nervous. Any advice?

Have him send you a pic of the title, showing the VIN and also a picture of the VIN tag on the driver door jamb.
Make sure they match.

If not, walk away, and do not look back.

 

[Indygbd]

2. Stollen cars don't have titles.
3. Mix match of parts doesn't make a difference on most drivers.
4. A second fuel tank is common. Both probably work. If there was an issue with the one under the seat, fixing that would be easier than adding a second tank.
5. rear jump seats bolt right in. 10 minute job. I have those if you need some. Also have 1970 front seat. This one has a 72 seat. If you want to swap I will trade parts.
7. Hard tops are not easy to remove because they are heavy. Remove some boots and you are good to go.
8. Drive it. It could be restored, however judging from your questions I am assuming it's a bigger project than you can handle. Buy it, change some small stuff and enjoy playing in it.

 

[Indygbd]

Have him send you a pic of the title, showing the VIN and also a picture of the VIN tag on the driver door jamb.
Make sure they match.

If not, walk away, and do not look back.

All of the vins match. I looked at that. Frame, title, plates all the same.The title looks good. I ran vin in stollen vehicle database. It came back good.