[silverhorse]

I have been speaking with Advance Adapters about their Part time transfer case conversion kits they sell from Marks 4wd adapters in Australlia . As seen here LCruiser 80/100 Series
They also have a kit you can purchase that comes without hubs. (For those who want to supply their own hubs)
I would like to know how much interest we have here for the kits.

Here is our cost, With hubs reg 525.00 w/discount 472.50
w/o hubs reg 360.00 w/discount 324.00
plus shipping from California

[UWdave]

I have this on my list of things to do.

Why are hubs required? Can't the front diff and driveshaft just be allowed to spin?

[beno]

Originally Posted by UWdave

I have this on my list of things to do.

Why are hubs required? Can't the front diff and driveshaft just be allowed to spin?

The whole point is so that they don't spin and to reduce wear and tear on the front driveshaft/diff/birfs/axles.

Great set of 30 spline hubs going for $100 in the "For Sale" section...would be ideal for someone doing this mod.

[Bikeman]

I would be in on the kit without hubs.

[silverhorse]

Questions & answers on converting from full time 4WD to part time 4WD

Last Updated:15/05/09

One of the most popular products that Mark has designed is the Land Cruiser Part Time 4WD kit.

This kit is exported all over the world & has proven an extremely popular addition to our product range.

The following questions are the most common received by our sales team.

How does it work? The centre diff becomes completely inoperative as the spider gears & the rear side gear is completely removed. The rear spool supplied in the kit is manufactured from heat-treated gear steel & internally splined to allow permanent drive to the rear wheels. The front side gear is retained, as it is required to support the front output shaft in the main housing.
The kit is supplied with free wheeling hubs & are fitted to prevent the front diff, axles & drive shaft from turning while the vehicle is being driven.
What are the benefits? There are several benefits to consider when converting your Land Cruiser 80 or 100 series to Part time 4WD. The steering no longer has a tendency to pull hard when powering out of a corner which adds to less wear & tear on the steering components such as tie rod ends & steering box. The steering is also more direct or positive.
There is a marked improvement in fuel economy an average of 5%-10%. The acceleration is also improved due to the reduction in losses associated with driving the front differential, drive shaft & CV joints.
With these components no longer being driven, a considerable increase in their service life can be expected.
Can I fit it myself? The kit is supplied with full fitting instructions which are step by step. If you consider yourself mechanically minded & you can read instructions (believe me not everyone can read) then yes you can fit the kit yourself. There is no need to pull the transfer case out of the vehicle. Remove the back cover off the transfer case fit the spool supplied as per the instructions. The free wheeling hubs are fitted as per the hub installation guide. The are no special tools required. We are only a phone call away if you experience any difficulty.
What if I can't fit the kit? No problem, your local mechanical workshop will be more than qualified to fit the kit for you or contact our sales team for an installation quote.
How do I engage 4WD once the kit is fitted? Simply press the centre diff lock button located on the dash, engage the hubs & select low range. If your vehicle has a viscous coupled diff your vehicle will not be equipped with a centre diff lock button & you will need to fit one. The fitting instructions will have a photo of the switch with a part number supplied to enable you to purchase the switch from your local Toyota parts supplier.
How do I know if my vehicle is fitted with a viscous coupling?A vehicle fitted with a viscous coupling does not have a centre diff lock button on the dash.
Do I need to fit a diff lock button when I fit the part time kit?Yes you do. This is to select 4WD in high range. The part number of the button is provided in the fitting instructions
What happens to my Viscous coupling in the transfer case? The viscous coupling is no longer required & is removed from the transfer case.
How does this affect my ABS? If you have the IFS 100 Series Land Cruiser your ABS will not be affected as the ABS sensor is located on the wheel hub. The live axle models have the ABS sensor located on the CV joint. By fitting the free wheeling hubs the CV joint is prevented from turning therefore affecting the ABS system & causing an ABS malfunction light to appear on the dash. To prevent this from happening you can leave the hubs engaged whilst ABS is required.

[ravencr]

I like the idea of this but you lose abs functionality on the 80 series if I read it right. The only way to keep abs working is to leave the hubs locked which defeats the purpose of this mod all together for me.

Chris

[slow91fj90]

Bump,
Im interested.

[Aseif007]

This would be good for a FJ-80 because they don't have ABS. I am assuming that this kit will work in an 80 right? (Not an FZJ-80)

[beno]

Originally Posted by Aseif007

This would be good for a FJ-80 because they don't have ABS. I am assuming that this kit will work in an 80 right? (Not an FZJ-80)

This would be a direct fit for the HF2A transfer case.

[hntashdjian]

I like this mod but I like to retain ABS, is there any other alternatives ?

If I get this kit without the the new hubs, then the axles obviously are spining while the car is moving. But if its disconnected from the transfer case and not getting any power, isnt it just spinning without any load on it ? Since there is not heavy load on it, the axles and birfs will have less wear and tear on it.

Am i missing something ?

[hawaiicruz]

Count me in. Do you know the shipping weight? maybe cheaper for me to have shipped direct from OZ. My ABS is already disabled, truck brakes better without it IMO.

[Kernal]

hntashdjian: The way I understand it from reading other posts on the subject (I'm not the expert) the only way to get the ABS to work is to have the ABS ring spinning by the ABS sensor inside the knuckle that sends a signal from each wheel to the ?ECU.

[hntashdjian]

Originally Posted by Kernal

hntashdjian: The way I understand it from reading other posts on the subject (I'm not the expert) the only way to get the ABS to work is to have the ABS ring spinning by the ABS sensor inside the knuckle that sends a signal from each wheel to the ?ECU.

Thats what I was thinking.

If do this kit without the new hubs, then the ABS works because the sensors are spinning that are on the birfs. Since the front output of the t/c is not engaged, then the front drivetrain is in action without the load of the engine on it. Sorta like free spinning and less load on the front end.

[lacruiser]

Interested.

I would like to know what the approx cost of fitting a dedicated Part time case would be, though. HF1?

I would like to know the difference internally between the HF2 and HF1. In other words, how is the power transmitted through the gears, comparing a modified HF2 and stock HF1. Does it end up essentially the same, or is there a significant difference? (more gears, different gears, completely different power transmission route internally, etc, etc.)

And, I assume this Mark's adapters kit also requires that the birfield hub splines have a groove machined to accept a c-clip?


Dana

[beno]

Originally Posted by lacruiser

Interested.

I would like to know what the approx cost of fitting a dedicated Part time case would be, though. HF1?

I would like to know the difference internally between the HF2 and HF1. In other words, how is the power transmitted through the gears, comparing a modified HF2 and stock HF1. Does it end up essentially the same, or is there a significant difference? (more gears, different gears, completely different power transmission route internally, etc, etc.)

And, I assume this Mark's adapters kit also requires that the birfield hub splines have a groove machined to accept a c-clip?


Dana

To fit an HF1A, you would need to figure out the following:

1. What kind of tranny do you currently have. From there, did the HF1A come attached to my tranny. If yes, you're done. Find an HF1A and fit to your tranny. If no, then proceed to number 2.

2. If no, then is there an adapter for my tranny to the HF1A? If yes, get it and get an HF1A and be done. If no, then you are going to have to get a tranny as well as the HF1A that both fit together.

3. Finding and getting an HF1A will be interesting. I am searching now for one and I would go to Oz if I could get one at a decent price and bring it back to the states. Then you have electrical to deal with--HF1A was a part time tranny but it also had a couple of electrical bits (and had a PTO port).

The difference between an HF2A and an HF1A is that one is full time 4WD (with diff lock) and one is just a plain ole part time 4WD (with diff lock).

Power on the HF2A goes from the input shaft to the idler to the front and rear outputs to the driveshafts, etc.

Power from the HF1A goes from the input, to the idler to the rear output to the rear driveshaft, etc.

If you lave 246.5mm birfs than you will need to have a c-clip groove machined/cut for you. If you have a 238.5mm birf that you are a plug and play for the Aisin 30 spline hubs.

[lacruiser]

Originally Posted by beno

To fit an HF1A, you would need to figure out the following:

1. What kind of tranny do you currently have. From there, did the HF1A come attached to my tranny. If yes, you're done. Find an HF1A and fit to your tranny. If no, then proceed to number 2.

2. If no, then is there an adapter for my tranny to the HF1A? If yes, get it and get an HF1A and be done. If no, then you are going to have to get a tranny as well as the HF1A that both fit together.

3. Finding and getting an HF1A will be interesting. I am searching now for one and I would go to Oz if I could get one at a decent price and bring it back to the states. Then you have electrical to deal with--HF1A was a part time tranny but it also had a couple of electrical bits (and had a PTO port).

The difference between an HF2A and an HF1A is that one is full time 4WD (with diff lock) and one is just a plain ole part time 4WD (with diff lock).

Power on the HF2A goes from the input shaft to the idler to the front and rear outputs to the driveshafts, etc.

Power from the HF1A goes from the input, to the idler to the rear output to the rear driveshaft, etc.

If you lave 246.5mm birfs than you will need to have a c-clip groove machined/cut for you. If you have a 238.5mm birf that you are a plug and play for the Aisin 30 spline hubs.

I'm thinking about this for my upcoming conversion. I have an electronic 442 in my half-cut, and it's got the HF2. It's 1996 AWD JDM, so I assume it's got the VC as well.

I have an HF1 in my '91 that has a fully-hydraulic 442.

I'm pretty sure then, that either case will bolt up to either 442.

After I do my new conversion, I'm planning on selling the '91, so maybe I'll just swap over the p/t HF1 (and hubs, etc) to the new conversion and return the '91 to AWD. Or buy one of these conversion kits and do the conversion on the new recipient truck (factory locked 1995).

Electrical: They guy who did the conversion on my 91 said the p/t case was literally plug n play. The harness for the CDL on the '91 HF2 plugged right into the HF1 actuator. so the CDL switch is now my 2WD/4WD selector. His build documentation references this with notes that he did no modifications at all to that circuit.

birfs: If I do the conversion on my new recipient ('95) truck, I would just use those birfs, so whatever is in a factory locked 2/95 build truck is what I've got. What length are those? Probably the ones that need a groove machined.

thanks

Dana

[beno]

Originally Posted by lacruiser

birfs: If I do the conversion on my new recipient ('95) truck, I would just use those birfs, so whatever is in a factory locked 2/95 build truck is what I've got. What length are those? Probably the ones that need a groove machined.

thanks

Dana

Yes, 4/1994 and later got the 246.5mm birfs. You will need to either have a machinist cut the grooves 13mm down from the top (with a 3mm groove) or do it yourself. I have 3 birfs that need to have new grooves (bought a new earlier, shorter birf) so I farmed it out to my local machinist.

[cwlahr]

Silverhorse, add me to list of people interested in a kit with hubs. Thanks!

[silverhorse]

First, I want to thank beno for chiming in on this thread !He's very knowledgeable about the subject and a great asset to this forum. Thank you sir!

I have also spoken to 4wd systems about their kit.4WD Systems | Part Time 4WD Conversion | Gear to Goannawhere They would ship from Oz directly to us individually vs. Marks kit which would ship from oz then from Advance Adapters in California. We'll see who gives use the best deal and or course figure shipping into that.

I'll check and see what the shipping weight would be for those interested asap.

[cc93cruiser]

Silverhorse I am in for sure! Let me know via pm when you are ready to order. Thanks Robert Muniz... P.s., I want the partime kit without the hubs. I have 60 series hubs that I rebuilt, these will work as long as I cut the new groove with my longer 97 birfs, right?