Rear axle service - homemade SST socket (2 Viewers)

[fj80toyman]

Recently got into the rear axle for some much needed service. Saw that a Special Service Tool (SST) was going to be required but I had the time so I tore it apart before buying said tool.

When I got in, I figured out a way to make my own SST to tighten the nut to it's spec of 43 ft-lbs during the bearing setting process. I'm sure others have climbed this mountain, but here's my take.

Here are some pics of the simple tool that replaces the OTC/Toyota SST in my toolbox.

First pic is after some quick work with a grinder to make the slots for the axle nut.

Second pic, part number of the "Great Neck" socket (p/n 336 25965). This socket says 66.5 mm x 80 mm and fits Ford and some Dodge products, available at Pep Boys and others for around $17.00. I think I probably voided the "Limited Lifetime Warranty".

Third pic shows how the new SST fits snugly onto the socket. After rough-cutting the three slots, I then ground away carefully at each slot to make sure I had a good fit, but also would move without binding on the nut.

End result, less than 20 minutes work, it worked well, saved me at least $25 if I bought the part from Toyota's tool supplier OTC, what with shipping and all that.

Oh, if you're the guy who needs to own the real deal, here's how to get it:

OTC Tools, SST Hotline: 1.800.933.8335
Website: www.toyota.spx.com
OTC SST Tool number 09509-25011
Quoted price: $37.82 not including shipping

Dan.

Anyone local needs to borrow this, let me know, I hope I don't have to use it for awhile.

 

[FirstToy]

Oh that's awesome. I think me and another cruiserhead need to use it here in the san gabriel valley if you are willing.

 

[fj80toyman]

Could work. I'm passing by that way next Wedneday AM, don't know exactly where you are but simple shipping in a padded envelope couldn't be too much I guess? PM me with more details.

Dan.

 

[FirstToy]

sent you a PM

 

[Adam R]

A brass drift worked pretty well for me and it was readily available.

Nice handiwork though.

Adam

 

[fj80toyman]

A brass drift worked pretty well for me and it was readily available.

Nice handiwork though.

Adam

My torque wrench doesn't fit onto my brass drift though!

Seriously, I did think about doing it some way like that, this has got to last another 60K miles before I'm in it again so I wanted to get it as right as I could. Besides, I love cool tools, especially ones I can make.

Dan.

 

[Adam R]

I should have said "well calibrated brass drift".

I just went through my rear axle this week on a vehicle that I just picked up. One tire had about 1/4 inch of movement when you shook it at 12 and 6 o'clock and the other "felt" o.k. Once inside, both lock nuts could easily be tightened by hand. I cleaned everything up and surprisingly the bearings and races looked great for a vehicle that had 240,000 miles on it. On re-assembly, I had a problem with the lock washer riding up and turning with the lock nut. In the end, I tightened by hand and used the drift to index the lock nut to the next available position where you could insert the lock bolts.

Again, nice tool and the price of these custom tools always makes you feel pretty good.

Adam R.

 

[steffan]

Here is another variation: $10 for a 12 point socket, spent 10 minutes with the die grinder and bored out 3 of the indentations. Good snug fit on the nut as well as in the hub. A bonus is that you can still use it for the front hubs - perfect for the trail box.

 

[jynx]

I like this ^^^^

I think I am going to try this one myself.

 

[Stevesnj]

I made one from my front axle hub socket from a vendor I forget the name of. It fits inside the rear hub so i make it and cut it with my angle grinder and now have a 2 in 1 tool for front and rear

 

[ham00]

Good job on that 1 for sure. I too was sick of having loose wheel bearings, But i got the real deal.

Hamo

 

[danman78]

94 FZJ80 Rear Bearings

... Well I decided to brave the task of replacing the rear bearings on my own... I am actually in the middle of it right now. I was told that the hubs differed between the model and that you would not really know what tool to get until you were looking at the nut. I was hoping that I did not have to come up with the SST three prong thing.. well it turns out I do. I was worried I would not be able to get any further in the job until I got a fancy new socket (or fabricated one, which i intend to anyway to get the thing torqued down.

Just wondering... is it normal for that bearing nut to just be loose? I noticed that when I put my screwdriver to the two screws that you have to remove first... actually moved the nut by a simple touch... Can anyone tell me if that is normal?

 

[neal0124]

It seems to be normal, but not ideal. That nut is supposed to be tight, they loosen after a long while. On my truck the passenger side wheel was loose and the drivers side was tight.

 

[artur]

hello
better late than never sst diy

 

[b16]

I made one from my front axle hub socket from a vendor I forget the name of. It fits inside the rear hub so i make it and cut it with my angle grinder and now have a 2 in 1 tool for front and rear
View attachment 634455

Just wanted to say this idea saved my ass yesterday. thank you!

 

[Ragnaroek]

This was my approach a few years ago. Drilled a piece of pipe to fit the pins, holesawed some plate, welded to tube, turned flat, drilled the center, welded an old socket to it, wirebrushed and painted the product of listed steps.

 

[mudgudgeon]

I made one from my front axle hub socket from a vendor I forget the name of. It fits inside the rear hub so i make it and cut it with my angle grinder and now have a 2 in 1 tool for front and rear
View attachment 634455

Did the same with mine years ago.
2 in 1 means less bulky crap in a bag of tools.

The other thing I did was ground the face/end of the hub socket flat. The end of the tube on mine was scalloped from being pressed. Grinding the end flat means it sits better on the hub nuts, grips the nuts better and is easier to use