I am replacing the left front rotor and brake pads on my 94 Land Cruiser. The wife drove me baby w/o any concern about the sound the left front brake was making. I found metal shavings on the outside of the left front tire. Anyway, now I have to replace pads and the front left rotor. I went thru the FAQs page and copied the steps below for a reference. Thanks to all of you who posted them. Wish me luck.
Replacing Calipers
I'm about a 1
mechanic, and when my truck was having braking issues I took it into the dealership. I didn't have the time or ability to mess with a full rotor replacement myself, so I had them do it for me. Long story short...they overcharged the **** out of me, and informed me that my rotors were scarred because of seized/sticky pistons in my calipers. They quoted me $1200
just to replace the calipers, and I wasn't having it.
I found in the FAQ a great thread on how to replace brake pads, and bleed the braking system, but couldn't find pics of how the job works...so I took some myself and dove in. Ordered some re-manufactured calipers from CDan (great prices!) and went to work.
Used Driley's thread to get started. I'll quote some of his stuff that helped me through the project.
http://forum.ih8mud.com/showpost.php...81&postcount=8
Started by getting the truck solid on jack stands, and removing the front wheels. Old caliper looks like this.
Attached Images
"Looking at the rotor, the brake caliper is on the left. Get a good light and examine the back side (left) of the brake caliper. You will see a thin little bent wire clip holding 2 guide pins (each pin approximately 4" long) that hold the pads in. Do not pull the clip out of the guide pins just yet. Using a pair of needle nose pliers, I pushed the middle of the bent clip out of the hole at the center rear of the caliper gently. You will have to flex the clip a little-just be gentle! Once it is out of the hole, use the needle nose plyers to pull the clip out of each pin, again gently (I had read that if this breaks, you need to replace before driving - after looking at it, I would think that 2 cotter pins (1 per guide pin) would also work."
This is fairly simple, the little wire clip is easy to recognize. Be careful, its a fragile part!
Next picture is of removing the first holding pin, while keeping the spring clip from shooting across the garage:
"With the bent wire clip out and placed in a safe place, put your hand on the flat metal spring clip that holds onto both the upper and lower guide pin shafts. Slowly pull the upper guide pin out and catch the flat metal spring clip (it will pop out if you do not have your hand on it."
Then removing the pads, one side at a time. Attached Images
Up next is removing the caliper itself. There are two bolts which hold the caliper in place. They are shown in the below picture. You will also need to remove the brake line to the caliper itself, which is held in by the third bolt pointed to. Its handy to have a 3" extension to get the caliper bolts out. Mine were torqued down TIGHT.
Note the bucket below the caliper. You will lose a fair amount of brake fluid when the bolt is removed. Take care to save (or replace) the small metal washers that are on the brake line bolt, there are two of them.
After everything is removed, might be a good idea to clamp off the brake line somehow to keep air from entering the system. I did not do this, and I had to do a lot of brake pumping to get the lines bled out. Attached Images
After the brake line and the two bolts are removed, the caliper slides right off the rotor. The dealership guys were right, and the pistons in my old caliper were very sticky, and a couple wouldn't move at all. I cleaned things up a bit, then bolted the new caliper right on. Replaced the brake line/bolt with washers.
The FSM states that the two caliper bolts need to be torqued down to 90lbs...I don't have a torque wrench, so I just cranked them as much as I could via arm power. Next week I plan to pull the wheels again and make sure they are still tight.
I had to pry the pistons in the new caliper back out a bit, using the wooden handle of a hammer to get the new brake pads and shims back in. After that, replace the pins and spring in the reverse order that they were removed. Attached Images
I bled the brakes using a 'pump the brake pedal assistant'. I took the opportunity to replace all my fluid as well at this time. It was about the color and consistency of maple syrup, and pumped it until it came clean and clear. Because I replaced the calipers, and they had a lot of air in them, my bleeding sequence was a little different, but worked well. I bled the front two lines first, until very little air was coming through the lines, then moved to the typical sequence, and finished by bleeding the fronts again, and the LSPV last to clear all the air.
Fired the truck up and everything's working great, no spongy brakes, and no dragging pistons on the rotors.
Hopefully this will inspire another 1
to do calipers/pads themselves. I was amazed at how straight forward it was. The whole process took about 2 hours start to finish.
Please post up if I'm forgetting anything!
Using a Screwdriver and a hammer, remove the grease cap from the flange. The Grease cap is the metal cap in the center shown there in the first two pics and gone in the third.
Remove the 6 nuts on the flanges. Using a Brass Drift placed against the flange bolt heads, hit the drift with a hammer until the cone washers back out and you can remove them by hand
Note: If you don't have a brass drift, you can loosen the nuts to be flush with the bolt ends, and tap with a mallet to loosen the cone washer
The below Pics are from my brake job showing Tire removed, Brake Caliper removed and cone washers and nuts removed from the drive plate Attached Images
With the cone washers removed from the Flange, remove the Drive Plate. After the flange is removed you will need to use a snap ring pliers to remove the snap ring
Next you will see a lock washer, use a screwdriver to remove this by bending the tabs to the middle position, even with the rest of the washer Attached Images
Use the 54MM Hub Socket, remove the Lock nut.
Then remove the Lock Washer.
Using the 54MM Hub Socket, remove the adjusting nut (Used later for preload)
Then remove the thrust washer. Attached Images
Remove the Hub and Rotor Disk together as one piece with the outer bearing. OK to leave outer bearing in Hub for now. It will all be cleaned up later.
Brake Job Another thing you can do here is swap your rotors. All you have to do is remove the bolts that connect the hub to the rotor and install the hub on a new rotor.
You can see why its a great time to do it now since doing it later would require you to repeat what you had done up to the knuckle. Your inner and outer bearings would need to be cleaned and repacked again.
Note: The blue stuff in the picture is probably some kind of sealant that has not been cleaned off. This was not on my hub, but I picture of someone else's. I did not use it in my axle job.
Attached Images
Clean off the ABS sensor and re-install it. Torque the bolts to 13 ft-lbs.
Pack the inside of the axle hub with grease (Should have been cleaned prior to this).
Pack the inner and outer bearings with Grease per the instructions used for the Trunnion bearings. These bearings are typically re-used unless after they are clean you notice damage.
Install the inner bearing into the hub and then install a new oil seal onto the hub. Coat the oil seal with grease Attached Images
Place the axle hub with the disc side towards the spindle (Hub side out)
Install the outer bearing
Intsall the thrust washer
Quote:
Originally Posted by
IdahoDoug 
I took some extra time on this repack to consider common failures people have experienced after repacking their birfields:
- wheel bearings coming loose
In the past, and on this job today I had to really struggle getting one of my newly repacked wheel bearings to fully seat. When you're putting the disc rotor back on with the new grease seal on the back, it feels like you've solidly thunked it all the way on, but you may not have. I thought I had, but having done this many, many times it did not look quite all the way on and a light went on. I wondered if some are putting the thrust washer and nuts on at this point and then having problems with preload or simply getting the preload even though the assembly has not been pushed fully home. In my case, I was reluctant to grab the rotor and seriously heave on it because I'd degreased the rotors and my hands were greasy. With less experience in this exact situation, I might have continued with assembly and later the bearing would pop on and be loose. I don't know what it is that catches back there but I think it's simply the precise fit of the inner bearing on the spindle. At any rate, feeling suspicious I grabbed a couple fresh rags and really got aggressive with pushing it on. I was rewarded with a thunk and thought I'd bring this to everyone's attention.
So, I'm suggesting that the front wheel bearing installation be amended to include extremely close attention to making sure the rotor is all the way seated before setting up the bearings - up to and including some hammer blows with a brass or plastic hammer to seat it.
Just a couple observations today as I buttoned 'er up.
DougM
Attached Images
Set pre-load. This step has a difference of opinion. Some folks use a fish scale and some do it by feel. Most agree that the way they do it is the right one.
I'll repeat the steps from the FSM. Install the adjusting nut.
You adjust the pre-load using the 54mm socket. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs
turn the hub right two or three times. Torque the adjusting nut to 43 ft-lbs again.
Loosen the nut until the hub can be turned by hand.
Torque nut to 48
in lbf (Yes thats inch pounds) and make sure there is no play.
Using a spring tension gage (Fish scale) measure the pre-load. s/b between 6.4-12.6lbf. Adjust as required. You do this by hooking one end of the scale to the hub and seeing how much it takes to move the hub.
Here are two other methods:
Robbies
"This was how we did big trucks in the 80's. We would do the bearing preload rotate then tighten again, rotate. Then we would back off to the point that the nut was loose. Hand tighten, then check to see how much the washer would move back and forth with a screw driver. IF no movement then loosen, if real easy movement not tight enough. this was a trail and error until you got good at it. when it was just right you put the lock washer on then the lock nut and tighten to what ever the man spec's were. then check to see if you could move the washer with some force, not two handed force but some more force then it took with just the jam nut. Sound hazzy but works real well. I have been using this method for over 20 years (yea I am old, but big enough to wipp most) and it is what I use in the shop today. It takes a feel and it may take a couple of times doing it but will serve well. The way you would tell if it is too loose(before driving the truck) is with the tire and wheel on, with every thing on the ground and you shake the tire(from the top) back and forth and you have looseness, the bearing preload is not enough, do it over or you will have problems.
Junk you may want to put this in the FAQ section. later robbie"
Gumby/Landtank:
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Gumby
I think Landtank's method was the same as mine.
Tighten the inner nut to 45 lbs/ft, rotate, back off and repeat, then just until you feel resistance. Install the lock washer, then torque the outer nut to 45 lbs/ft.
I use a torque wrench for Cruisers because you need to use the socket. It's easy to get carried away with a 1/2 ratchet.
With cars and trailers I use a pair of channel locks. I've found that I get better feel for the pre-load torque.
The rear bearings do require the special alien landing ship tool.
These are discussed in this
thread
Install Lock washer and lock nut. Torque the lock nut to 47 ft-lbs.
Check that the axle hub turns smoothly and the bearing has no play.
FSM says to check pre-load again with scale.
Secure the lock nut by bending one of the lock washer teeth inward and the other tooth outward.
Place a new gasket in position over the axle hub.
Apply molygrese to the inner flange splines.
Install the flange on the axle hub.
Install the 6 cone washers, plate washers and nuts.
Torque the nuts to 26 ft-lbs
Install a bolt in the axle shaft and pull it out to hold it while you install the snap ring.
Using a snap ring expander, install a new snap ring and remove the bolt.
After the drive flange is fitted and the cone washer nuts are torqued, the circlip can be fitted. Screw an 8 x 1.25 pitch bolt into the axle to pull it out and expose the circlip groove.
Install the drive plate (part cap goes into)
Quote:
Originally Posted by
IdahoDoug
Go super easy on tightening the tiny nuts on the drive plate and cone washers. The torque is in INCH pounds, so easy to break right off.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
sleeoffroad
when installing new drive plates (Most re-use old ones), paint them before installing them. They are not coated when new.
Coat the inside of the cap with MP grease and tap it on using a rubber hammer or a drift and hammer.
Re-install the brake caliper. Torque bolts to 90 lb-ft
during the re-installation of the caliper is a great time to replace the brake pads if required. 100 series pads last longer on the front
Re-install the tires. Make sure you torque the rims to the following specs depending on which rim you have:
Steel wheel and alloy wheel with conical seat lug nuts, 109 lb-ft.
Late alloy wheel with shank nuts, 76 lb-ft. Attached Images
Repeat process on other side taking it for a test drive.
After test drive, 100 miles and some time after that.
Jack up one side of car and wiggle tire to see if tire moves top to bottom. This will give a rough test if your bearings loosened up on you.
Quote:
Originally Posted by
Poriomania
I'd also mention the periodic check of torque on the steering arm bolts.
Ebag333
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