Your thoughts on wiring

[ian]

So my plans are this:

+ Strip all existing wiring.
+ Buy modular fuse panel from either American Autowire or Ron Francis ($$).
+ Use zip loom and run new wires throughout.
+ Open barrel terminals on everything. Give them a shot of solder after crimping, use heat shrink boot (I've grown quite proficient at this).
+ Try to defeat the terminals on either fender.
+ Hellroaring dual battery system. Welding wire cables. Mil-spec terminals.
+ Master disco?

What is the best type of wire to use? I've read the stuff in auto stores is junk and overpriced. Past experiences lead me to agree. I'm not sure where to get "good" auto wire.

Curious if anyone has worked with AAutowire products. I'm not too keen on using WAGO cage clamps. Snap spades seem a bit more secure.

What's a good alternative to using the exposed terminal blocks on either inner fender? I still want to be able to pull the fender and easily remove the fender mounted markers.

Also considering a break somewhere in the rear wiring (to avoid splicing in the future). Haven't been able to find a set of connectors that are weather resistant.

Where to buy mil-spec battery terminals and boots for them? If no boots avail, I'll just smother them in DE grease.

Thank you for your input.

Ian

 

[Steve C]

The boat store has "tinned" copper wire. More corrosion resistant. They also have circuit breaker panels, which look kind of interesting (no fusel). Have you thought of what to do with all the connectors? I just went through the same thought process, and reinstalled the old harness because I didn't know where to get all the stock connectors.

The beauty of the 40 is that there are not that many wires compared to a modern car.

 

[mattcobb]

the painless kits are pretty nice if you are wiring the whole thing. They have all the connectors ect / new fuse block. There was just a thread here (try a search) saying that you can get the same stuff for less money than a pianless kit -- SOR / CCOT both carry painless

 

[Romer]

You can also buy an old harness, place it on a bench and ring it out, fix what needs fixing (if any) and then install. That would probably be easier in the longrun. Course, you will learn more about your electrical system with your approach.

 

[TexomaFJ40]

Used centech wire, http://www.centechwire.com/catalog/universal/gv18.shtml, for a new harness. However, my cruiser is desmogged, so that means my wiring is much simplier do to the decreased number of relays and modules. If you are staying stock, I agree with Romer.

 

[TexomaFJ40]

PS: Painless is far from painless, why pay a premium? (Pain le (a)ss)

 

[Pin_Head]

Unless your harness has burned, it is easier to just put new terminals on the old wires. The color coding is important for figuring out what circuit goes where. If you do replace it, get several different colors.

 

[ian]

It's really too chopped up to work with.

Unfortunately, I'm having some trouble finding GXL rated wire in anything less than 100' lengths. Considering premade harness from Francis. Though for $250 I could probably buy a few 100' spools ;p .

 

[VTFJ40]

Wiring is gonna be my next project. I've also started to look into some marine vendors, but everything marine rated has got an extra few $$$ on it.

Good luck-

 

[cajunqueen]

EZ Wire

I ordered an EZ Wire kit from JT Outfitters for $260.00 for everything. It was extremely simple and the components were all high quality. Plus, the price was not bad. I'd recomend this kit to anyone.

 

[CruisinGA]

Check waytekwire.com, and get them to send you a catalog.

Napa has mil-spec terminals, and carries everything needed to make welding cable battery cables. Just look through their wiring catalog. Just get a can of that battery sealant spray instead of boots, it will prevent corrosion better.

I would rather use the really nice solder/shrinkwrap connectors/ring terminals etc. than solder and then shrinkwrap everything. The shrinkwrap is very thick and seals tight, and the solder, is well, solder. You need a good heat gun to use them.

Napa carries these too, but they are PRICEY! but well worth it IMHO, simple sealed solder connections. (buy by the box).

If I was to make a harness from stock, I would consider using the weather-tight connectors from Wayteck available in different configuration. (They are essentially GM connectors)

 

[slickotter]

JEGS here in Ohio sells a few different styles of weathertight connectors (one is Packard/GM weatherpack style). I have also gotten some stuff from OKI, the foklift company the place I work at deals with a lot.

 

[spotcruiser]

Wiring Harness

Check out the Packard 56 connectors at Waytek. They don't have environmental seals, but you really don't need them (your '70 certainly wasn't manufactured with them).

The Packard 56's are simple and durable and they are compact enough to go through the harness holes in your sheet metal. You don't need a proprietary crimper to get a good crimp on the terminals, like you do on many of the other types of connectors. The Packard 56's are almost exactly what your LC had to begin with. The weather-tight pin connectors (Delphi type) are nice, but they are usually larger for a given number of pins and require special crimpers for the pins.

I recently built a new rear harness for my '76 using the Packard 56 connectors and GXL wire from Waytek. The new harness is much better than the original. I used larger wire, better wire, crimped and then soldered the terminals, and sealed the backs of the plugs with RTV to keep mud and water out. After wrapping the harness with vinyl tape, I gave it a couple coats of Scotchcoat. It's bulletproof.

The Packard 56's are close to the originals, but not exact. They're great for any connection in a harness of for any device that has a pigtail (tail lights and such). On some devices (like the heater switch) where the device is 1/2 of the connection, you will probably have to re-use the original plug. I haven't checked, but I believe the terminals from the Packard connectors (these are standard 1/4" connector-type quick disconnects) will install right into your OEM plug bodies (I'll check a couple out and reply back). So, I think you can rebuild (new wire and new terminals) your OEM connectors where necessary.

Waytek requires that you buy minimum quantities of everything, so I have lots of 2-pole, 4-pole, and 6-pole connectors and terminals, and lots of 16 AWG GXL wire in about 7 different colors (all solid). So, if you need some material, I can give you a good deal on the quantities that you need.

Good Luck.
Todd Bull.

 

[dd113]

I have yet to see an original harness that cannot be fixed. Pull it out, get a meter and go to town. Easier to remember, easier to track down issues and ya got a diagram with colour coding to follow! Bailey has the right info. NAPA has all you need. Wayteck has the same stuff as NAPA with a few more wire coloures but none of the OEM stripped wire.

 

[CruisinGA]

Bailey has the right info.

i'm pretty good at regurgitating what I've been taught....

 

[sanjuancruiser]

My 45 had a fire inthe harness and I managed to redo nthe entire thing w/some shrink tubing solder and a supply of used conectors from the bone yard. looks factory and has a couple of cool add ons to boot.