Your prefered choice of motor oil?

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tacomafj-80 said:
M-1 10-30 synthetic every 3k with a fram 3600 filter. going to switch to OEM filter next time.

1. You are changing out that M1 10-30 far too often. You can easily get 7k mi. more out of it. Even anal people change out M1 at 5k intervals. Do a few UOAs (used oil analyses) and you'll see for yourself.

2. FRAM = bad.

3. Suggestion: Checkout http://www.bitog.com

:cheers:
 
your right. been thinking about taking it to a 5000 mile schedule. agree on the price-just keeps up climbing! No Mo frams for me.
 
Valvolilne MaxLife 10w30 and Napa Gold (Wix) fliter every 3 or 4K. I'll be doing my first used oil analysis at the next oil change.

Searching for Napa Gold and Wix will eventually get you to a link where you can buy a case of filters for a pretty good price.

Hayes
 
Haha... yeah beaten to death, but never get tired of saying:

300,000+ miles om M1 10w-30. No head gasket probs, never a knock or ping, no noticable loss of power, and the magnetic drain plug comes out so clean I could lick it.

To the person changing their M1 every 3k; we all have our little things that make us sleep well at night. If that's yours, all the power to ya... but as stated by the person before me, you can go 7k no prob. As a matter of fact, if I was to realize I hadn't changed my oil in 10k miles, I'd change it, but I wouldn't lose a minute of sleep over it. I'm not a scientist or even all that smart.... just calling on on the experience of owning my 80 for 11.5 years and 300,000 miles.

:cheers:
 
Filter is a piece of cake if you put it on until it touches the block, then 1/2 turn and you're done. Not 1/2 plus a little more so you feel better. 1/2 turn. I've done this with 1/4 turn using the high end OEM filters but would go 1/2 turn as a good rule. Come off with one hand, never leak. Started doing this about 1998

DougM
 
Montana Cruiser said:
M1 and Napa Gold(Wix) filter ..... although the M1 is getting more and more spendy all the time, might be time to consider Rotella, going to have to go back and search and reread the seemingly endless threads on this subject myself :D

I'll save you the time. For the money, the Shell Rotella 5w-40 in the 4 quart jugs at Walmart is the best deal going. Mobil 1 is a slightly better oil, but in the real world both will work equally well for intervals of less than 10,000 miles. Start pushing it longer than that and at some point the mobil 1 will show you how it holds up better.
 
C6H12O6 said:
I been using Kragen/Shucks/Checker brand oil and I re-use the old filter. Just hose it out with compressed air and stuff kleenex down inside the holes. The start-up rattle is horrible and it smells like burning hair.

I'm thinking of switching to M1 0W40 and the 20004 filter.


Oh yea. Well I use the SA rated oil they sell at walmart for 69 cents a quart. You know, the one that says not to use it for cars made after 1930. Hosing out the oil filter?!!! Don't be such a pansy. Just leave it on like I do and once it clogs up, it will just go into bypass and you don't have to worry about it anymore. BTW, I don't change my oil, I just keep adding it. Why should I change it, the thing consumes a quart every 200 miles. :D :D :D :D :D :D
 
M1 5-30 Changed every 5k miles, OEM Filter
 
I was using M1 15w50 every 3k, but the $$ is to much. I started using Chevron Delo 400 15w40, $7.49 a gallon at Autozone. OEM filter.
I always stick with the 3k changes. I'm in Tucson AZ and a pretty much every day anywhere between may and sept it will be over 100 degrees. In June it's 110 ambient and as much as 140 on the pavement., so even sitting cold the vehicle is hot. Thats hard on oil, thats why I will always stick to the 3k changes. I tried 4k once and felt bad about it. :cheers:
 
M1 5w30, Wix or Napa filter
 
IdahoDoug said:
Filter is a piece of cake if you put it on until it touches the block, then 1/2 turn and you're done. Not 1/2 plus a little more so you feel better. 1/2 turn. I've done this with 1/4 turn using the high end OEM filters but would go 1/2 turn as a good rule. Come off with one hand, never leak. Started doing this about 1998

DougM

Yeah.
I don't understand all the trouble folks are having with the filter. Reach your hand down there and twist the sucker off. You're not supposed to put it on with 30 lbs of torque.

Hayes
 
On my first interval with Rotella T Syn 5w-40. We'll see how it goes.

got 20004 OEM Filter for one more interval.
 
dell 15/40 I can get the cases at sams and do both cruisers and my dodge diesel at the same time... factory filters for the cruisers and fleetguard stratopore for the dodge... mark the date on them and do them about every 3 months regardless of milage...
 
mobile 1 synthetic and trd oil filter
 
BOUNDER said:
Funny, after all the years I've owned my 80, I just noticed TODAY (2/1/06), that on my oil cap it states 5W30 for oil weight. I originally bought the truck in Connecticut but now live in South Florida and switched to 5W40 Rotella T. Maybe a 10W40/50 is best for Florida?

The 5w-30 thing is EPA driven and not the recommendation Toyota gives for this motor outside of the US

Rotealla T syn should be fine for FL


trojan_knight said:
check out the wal-mart brand filters the test result on the side filter better than fram.


Wal-Mart super-tech filters used to be a great value, they were made by Champion labs who makes a lot of other filterers including Mobil 1, K&N and the better AC Delco and many others, they were well made and under $2

But now Champion Labs has a low tier line for Wal-Mart and other cheap filters that is similar to Fram using cheap components, it is called an “E-core”

I usually run Mobil one, I could not find any non Katrina “suitable for” Mobil 1 so I am going to give Rotella T syn a shot (not truly synthetic but not synthetic price either) I may stick with it for a wile.
 
NorCalDoug said:
Just a note for all you noobs who might start looking for the OEM oil filter, part number 90915-20004, it is no longer in production and you won't likely find a dealership with any on the shelf.

Ummm, I have plenty o'dem on the shelf :D. Wonder how much I can get for them on ebay?
 
Skool me on why M1 is so good? I am about to start a full tune up on my FJ80 and i want to start off on the right foot. In my 60's i would use quaker state 10-40 peak performance and they seemed to have like that alot. Why M1? And what is best to use 5 -30? 10-30? 10-40?

btw...i always use OEM filters...
 

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