Writeup: 1988 FJ62 4WD Solenoid fix for $17.77 (2 Viewers)

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thanks for replying. when i click on the H4 button my 4wd display lights up and all 4 WHEELS are locked in , then when i switch from H4 TO L4 THe 4wd light display turns off and only my rear wheels are locked in , basically i have no 4 wheel drive when switching from h4 to 4L. thanks.

mine works just like yours. i had my mech mess with it and after loosening and tightening the switch on the T-case it worked for a while but in the last year it has returned to this situation. what my mech told me is in my reply below.


Just ran over this post by Spook50.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Front Range 4x4
I never knew this - if this is the case why the solenoids?

I'm pretty sure it's in the case. Either that or connected to the mechanical linkage in one way or another. The switch allows current to go to the 4WD solenoid when you shift into low range, hence automatically shifting to 4WD at the same time......as long as the solenoids are working

https://forum.ih8mud.com/60-series-...transfer-vacuum-valve-conversion-writeup.html

Seems that you may have some connection problems at the tcase, either mechanical or electrical.

the linkage shifts to low range the 4wd is locked in the same way as always, with the vacuum solenoids. there is a switch that activates the solenoids on the tcase which is contacted by the linkage when you shift to low range. if you want 2wd low range you can disconnect the switch or if you are "lucky" like i and stash12 you will not have to disconnect because the switch isn't making contact. to go to 4wd low in this case you use the 2h/4L lever then actuate the 4wd with the dash switch. if you look at the wiring diagram in the FSM you will find that either switch (on the tcase or the dash) does the exact same thing.

can someone let Cdan know that his PM box is full? i wanted to find out how much a couple of these switches would cost shipped to me but his PM box is full
 
I seem to recall another way to test the solenoid was to switch the lines (its in another thread for specific line) and then see if the light extinguishes. This was the case for my rig, and I was able to isolate the bad solenoid.
 
Do I need to buy two solenoids, or does only one go bad?? I see there are two solenoids on my truck but people only seem to be replacing one?
 
You only need to replace one. The way they designed the system one solenoid was always active or on and it fails after years of staying on which in turn doesn't let you get your truck out of 4wd.
 
As a foot note the 88690-2B340 is now manufacture-discontinued and is no longer available. The 88690-89132 is still available as of this date (10-8-09).

EDIT UPDATE 1-14-11: The 88690-89132 is still available as of this date.
D-


that would be me and my Toyota parts guy :)

he dug up the same(similar) part from a Celica for me 3 or so years ago, can use them for all kinds of stuff, AC, 4x4 etc, other day the AC selnoid craped out on my 60, went over and pulled the celica part of of the box.....fixed.

when I posted the part #, most guys dealers could not get it, but mine had no problem, under $20

I'll dig up the part # I used.....

from a 91 Celica
88690-2B340
 
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They've gone up slightly this year - $28.xx from the dealer. I got two just to be safe.
 
They've gone up slightly this year - $28.xx from the dealer. I got two just to be safe.

You can also find these in pick your parts yards. They are in a lot of old toyotas and the plugs are all the same. I now have five spares in my garage. It's amazing how you start to hoard when you have space to store junk.
 
This is such a better solution than completely re-piping and converting to manual valves. Good to know a solenoid that will work is still available from Toyota, and it only takes 15 minutes and $30 to install.
 
You can also find these in pick your parts yards. They are in a lot of old toyotas and the plugs are all the same. I now have five spares in my garage. It's amazing how you start to hoard when you have space to store junk.

Pull-A-Part is 20 miles farther and a LOT more hassle than stopping by the $tealer and picking them up. :banana::banana::banana:
 
reading this post to figure out how to wire a couple VSVs. I have a vacuum controlled split case similar to FJ62. I've been looking for a post to explain how these should operate. From reading this, I now gather that in 2WD one VSV is on/open putting constant vacuum on the diaphragm to hold it in 2WD. Since our trucks spend 99% of their time in 2WD this solenoid eventually dies. No one notices until they switch into 4WD then try to switch back out.

So...my biggest question is this: Why did toyota set the VSVs up so that one has to be "hot" all time in 2WD (so that in 4WD the first one turns off and the second turns on). Seems to me the better solution is to plumb the vacuum lines so that in 2WD both VSVs are off and but the transfer case is getting vacuum as it is supposed to. THEN, in 4WD, both VSVs are on (one to port vacuum to the 4WD diaphragm, the other to vent the 2WD line).
 
As a foot note the 88690-2B340 is now manufacture-discontinued and is no longer available. The 88690-89132 is still available as of this date (10-8-09).

EDIT UPDATE 1-14-11: The 88690-89132 is still available as of this date.
D-

Just ordered two (88690-89132) of these today (05/03/11) from my $tealership here in North Florida, and they can have them in a day @ $23.70 each.
 
I have recently ordered and swapped out the original culprit VSV with the new part #88690-89132. Still nothing...I can manually engage the 4x4 by swapping the hoses with either the old or new VSV connected. So, now I wander if I have a blocked line or leak somewhere or, if the new part I installed is a lemon. I am getting power through the male plug. Any suggestions for troubleshooting from here? I was hoping this would be an easy plug and play, no such luck so far. Thanks.
 
I recently replaced my valves as well and they are working perfectly according to my vacuum gauge. I still can't get an immediate reaction from the transfer case. I seem to need to drive it around a bit before the case engages. Is anyone else having this issue? Mines an 88 FJ62.
 
hey, i'm having the opposite problem...i lock hubs, the drive shaft doesn't move but the 4-wheel light doesn't come on?

anyone else had this prob.....is it possible solenoid is culprit here as well?
 
Back it up some and see if that works. MIke
 
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