Would you pull a "good" head/head gasket to refresh?

[Skniper]

Hear me out... '90 FJ62, stock 3FE, 290K miles on the ticker, owned it 30 years (sheesh!), never had a major issue with the motor.

I'm in the middle of a resurrect/refresh/reseal of most things under the bonnet. All intake and exhaust components are currently removed. The head is about as exposed as it will ever be. I do not want to have the head milled and increase compression at all. It does need the oil galley plug drilled and tapped, which obviously can be done in place.

Is it a crazy idea to pull this head to have it refreshed/resealed and install a new OEM head gasket?? Or forget it and let this sleeping dog lie??
This would be a major 'while you're there' mission creep but I'm game if it makes sense at all.

Currently...

 

[Pighead]

A valve job might be nice...

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Removing the head now like you said is easy. I would take the opportunity to replace the headgasket. Head bolts are not hard to get to and is a quick job. Use an OEM headgasket. The after market ones suck!

 

[SteveH]

The PO had the head gasket replaced (for some reason) on my '89 before I got it, at 234K, but obviously, 3FEs rarely blow gaskets.

If it burns oil, but has good compression, then pulling the head and having the valve seals replaced might make sense (although this can be done with more difficulty with the head on the truck). But I might let sleeping dogs lie. Is there any weeping of coolant to the outside world?

If you pull the head, I would not mill it, but be sure to use an OEM gasket and follow all other best practices about head gasket replacement.

 

[toy_tek]

I would perform a leak down check now to identify any issues on the head or with rings. Will be super easy w the manifolds off. If leak down is good, then consider leaving it.

If leakdown identifies issues w the head, then that’s a good argument to pull it and refresh it. If there is suspected ring blow-by, id probably just run it as is until a full rebuild is necessary.

If the head is removed, my opinion is to at least have the surface checked for flatness - either at a shop or DIY. No sense reinstalling it with any warpage.

 

[Skniper]

The PO had the head gasket replaced (for some reason) on my '89 before I got it, at 234K, but obviously, 3FEs rarely blow gaskets.

If it burns oil, but has good compression, then pulling the head and having the valve seals replaced might make sense (although this can be done with more difficulty with the head on the truck). But I might let sleeping dogs lie. Is there any weeping of coolant to the outside world?

If you pull the head, I would not mill it, but be sure to use an OEM gasket and follow all other best practices about head gasket replacement.

No coolant leakage. No obvious issues, just age and maybe a few hard earned miles.
Can’t imagine it would have any warpage. The last thing I would want to do is increase compression on this motor.

 

[Pighead]

290K miles on the ticker,

At 290K I'd be thinking about an engine rebuild, but that's just me. I'd certainly do a valve job. Your machine shop can "skim" the bottom of the head, just to take off the high spots. Also true your manifold surface. Take in your manifolds and have them trued to match the head. While there, maybe have the ports matched and polished a little. Just little things that can help the engine a little tiny bit.

 

[Lead Head]

Replacing a headgasket as a preventative measure is crazy, unless it's an engine known to do it (i.e., 6.0 Power Stroke). I'd only do it, if I intended to do other things like freshen up the head with new valves/guides/seals. But odds are, if you take the head off, you'll probably find other things you don't like. At 290,000 miles, your cylinders almost certainly are no longer round and will need a bore job.

 

[Skniper]

At 290K I'd be thinking about an engine rebuild, but that's just me. I'd certainly do a valve job. Your machine shop can "skim" the bottom of the head, just to take off the high spots. Also true your manifold surface. Take in your manifolds and have them trued to match the head. While there, maybe have the ports matched and polished a little. Just little things that can help the engine a little tiny bit.

Whoa that’s some serious mission creep! If it ever comes to a rebuild I’ll try to add a couple more cylinders under the hood first. Lol.

But all good points. I thought about port polish/matching the other day staring at it, not sure this thing needs much turd polishing.

Definitely at a small crossroads whether I do this or not.

 

[Pighead]

Definitely at a small crossroads whether I do this or not.

It's a pretty big crossroad. You should take your time and look both ways.

 

[toy_tek]

If it ever comes to a rebuild I’ll try to add a couple more cylinders under the hood first. Lol.

Before I read this I figured you were a 3FE lifer (nothing wrong w that).

With this statement - I’d run it as is.

 

[Skniper]

Before I read this I figured you were a 3FE lifer (nothing wrong w that).

With this statement - I’d run it as is.

I mean…I kinda am(was). I lost some purity along the way, in fact my Cruiser purity starts at the t-case anymore, most the stuff in front of it would make a cool coffee table.

 

[toy_tek]

I mean…I kinda am(was). I lost some purity along the way, in fact my Cruiser purity starts at the t-case anymore, most the stuff in front of it would make a cool coffee table.

I’m in the same boat, brother. But there’s no scenario where I’m lifting that into my living room