@GA Architect !!!! perfect!! ill adjust my wiring! that's why I was asking for pictures. words are cool and I understand it better, but if it doesn't exist on your cruiser.... its hard to replicate sometimes. thank you.
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Resurfacing an old thread because of an issue I’ve got w/ my dome light. I’ve got an 82 with two wires going up through the windshield (where they were cut long ago). Want to run the wires back to the dome light. My dome light, though, is the earlier one wire version. Can I use it if I just hook up the hot wire and ground the other?What market is it from? I know the Middle East did not have the door switch in the A pillar. RHD and diesel it most.likely ot from market. If you dome light has on off and door cast in the cover you require two wires up thru the windshield and over the door than down to the light. If you only have a ground from the door switches it's not going. If only positive 12 volts should work on the switch if it's wired correctly at the light and has a ground thru the hard top.
Resurfacing an old thread because of an issue I’ve got w/ my dome light. I’ve got an 82 with two wires going up through the windshield (where they were cut long ago). Want to run the wires back to the dome light. My dome light, though, is the earlier one wire version. Can I use it if I just hook up the hot wire and ground the other?
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Thanks! Yes, it has the A pillar switches.That will work. Could run a wire off the doors switches and land it on the switch terminal without the ground wire. That is if your cruiser has the A pillar switches. If you don't want the doors switches operating the room light all the time could add a single pole single throw switch in the circuit heading up from door switches. Would work if you remove the doors and not the top.
At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.Thanks! Yes, it has the A pillar switches.
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?
Haven't seen any late dome light available except for a used one in Australia. It is missing the cover and the handle is broken off. Do not want to say what I paid for mine as the price was too low to post. If Matt wants to take on the project my complete one is in good shape. The second one minus the cover the switch works a little rough.
Now that my top is back on, I’m back on trying to fix this light. Pardon me for being dense here, but I’ve got both wires now running up to the switch (which is the older one wire switch). Should I just hook up the hot wire to the switch and then ground the other wire (which goes to the a pillar door jamb switches)? Or should I just cap that wire off?At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.
Thanks! Would you then expect the light to work in simple on/off function? Doesn’t seem to be working hooked up this way.Without the correct interior light there is no wire to hook the switched ground too. Just leaving inside the hard top side capped or not will not hurt anything.
Figured it out - always helps to be crystal clear on what’s ground and what’s hot…doh. Now the long wait for a unicorn three position, 82+ switch begins….Thanks! Would you then expect the light to work in simple on/off function? Doesn’t seem to be working hooked up this way.
Figured it out - always helps to be crystal clear on what’s ground and what’s hot…doh. Now the long wait for a unicorn three position, 82+ switch begins….
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Thanks! My issue is that the hot wire was green (with a small strip of red), and the ground is red (with a small strip of white). Thought red wire to the single switch wire (also red) was the way to go. I’m a dummy for not looking at the wiring diagram closely enough, as for the 82 models, green is noted as the supply line. All good now.Sorry, typed this out and didn't post it.
One of mounting screws should have a wire going to the switch. That what completes the circuit. Just mounting the top just ground the top. Post a picture of the inside of the light wirng