Wire routing for stock interior light

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@GA Architect !!!! perfect!! ill adjust my wiring! that's why I was asking for pictures. words are cool and I understand it better, but if it doesn't exist on your cruiser.... its hard to replicate sometimes. thank you.
 
That diagram is interesting. Not sure I have any of the pre 82 dome lights here. I know on the 82+ the positive goes directly to the lamp and the ground is what is switched. Believe my dome light for my 65 FJ45LP-B is the same.
 
I had a question about the wiring as well. Didn't want to start a whole new thread; hopefully this may add as well. I have a '78 and the wire from the interior/dome light was missing (PO had top off a lot so I could see it easily disappearing..).
Near the fuse box, there was a Red/Black wire with a female bullet connector sticking out of the wire harness. Based on diagrams I figured I could just build a wire with two bullet connectors and feed it from the light along the roof and down the windshield and then plug in to what I assumed was the correct point.

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All that done, no workie on the light. So after some troubleshooting I found that there was no power going to the open Red/Black wire near the fuse box. Light/switch/installed wire all good. Other troubleshooting found that it is indeed connected to the glove box lamp outlet (also has no power). So now I'm mildly confused and was hoping someone could shed some light, pun intended. Is that how these lights during these years connect? From a bullet out of that wire loom? If so, I guess maybe the inspection light socket isn't plugged in or getting power?

This is the diagram I have been referencing, which is slightly different from the other one on this thread. This is for a '79.

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I could use some help. This is an old post but was helpful tracking the wire from the dome light down the pillar and under the dash/ behind the fuse block. i can’t get my dome and map light to come on. There’s no power, ground is good, fuse is good. I found the two door switch wires which both enter the main loom. Also found the dome light and map light wiring both entering the same 1” loom. All red/ white. For the life of me I can’t find where these pickup power. I’ve got a 82 bj42 RHD 3b, 12v.
 
What market is it from? I know the Middle East did not have the door switch in the A pillar. RHD and diesel it most.likely ot from market. If you dome light has on off and door cast in the cover you require two wires up thru the windshield and over the door than down to the light. If you only have a ground from the door switches it's not going. If only positive 12 volts should work on the switch if it's wired correctly at the light and has a ground thru the hard top.
 
What market is it from? I know the Middle East did not have the door switch in the A pillar. RHD and diesel it most.likely ot from market. If you dome light has on off and door cast in the cover you require two wires up thru the windshield and over the door than down to the light. If you only have a ground from the door switches it's not going. If only positive 12 volts should work on the switch if it's wired correctly at the light and has a ground thru the hard top.
Resurfacing an old thread because of an issue I’ve got w/ my dome light. I’ve got an 82 with two wires going up through the windshield (where they were cut long ago). Want to run the wires back to the dome light. My dome light, though, is the earlier one wire version. Can I use it if I just hook up the hot wire and ground the other?

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Resurfacing an old thread because of an issue I’ve got w/ my dome light. I’ve got an 82 with two wires going up through the windshield (where they were cut long ago). Want to run the wires back to the dome light. My dome light, though, is the earlier one wire version. Can I use it if I just hook up the hot wire and ground the other?

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That will work. Could run a wire off the doors switches and land it on the switch terminal without the ground wire. That is if your cruiser has the A pillar switches. If you don't want the doors switches operating the room light all the time could add a single pole single throw switch in the circuit heading up from door switches. Would work if you remove the doors and not the top.
 
That will work. Could run a wire off the doors switches and land it on the switch terminal without the ground wire. That is if your cruiser has the A pillar switches. If you don't want the doors switches operating the room light all the time could add a single pole single throw switch in the circuit heading up from door switches. Would work if you remove the doors and not the top.
Thanks! Yes, it has the A pillar switches.
 
Thanks! Yes, it has the A pillar switches.
At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.
 
At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?
 
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?


Haven't seen any late dome light available except for a used one in Australia. It is missing the cover and the handle is broken off. Do not want to say what I paid for mine as the price was too low to post. If Matt wants to take on the project my complete one is in good shape. The second one minus the cover the switch works a little rough.
 
Would that green ground wire not already be tied into them? Seems like it is all still wire up, but was just cut at the top of the windshield. Yes, I definitely would like to replace with the original on-off-door dome light. Maybe @ToyotaMatt has one hanging around?
Haven't seen any late dome light available except for a used one in Australia. It is missing the cover and the handle is broken off. Do not want to say what I paid for mine as the price was too low to post. If Matt wants to take on the project my complete one is in good shape. The second one minus the cover the switch works a little rough.

.

ahhhhhhhhhhhhh..........

the ever illusive
81240-90301 topic surfaces once again , and here we are again with no new updates on this sadly ....:confused:

- one day i hope to have the time to put a real working pro-type i have on paper into reality using
100% toyota OEM parts , but that time has not happend yet due to a general lack of time in a 24 hour Revolution cycle .... :rolleyes:
till then i hope the below helps ...
matt
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At the very least I would run a ground wire from the switches in case you locate the correct room light. Who knows maybe the Heritage Program will produce them and a part we will be able to get them in the US. I never knew about the late model door switches until over ten year ago picked up a 82 tub and frame for next to nothing. The hunt was on for light. I got lucky and located one before they became popular.
Now that my top is back on, I’m back on trying to fix this light. Pardon me for being dense here, but I’ve got both wires now running up to the switch (which is the older one wire switch). Should I just hook up the hot wire to the switch and then ground the other wire (which goes to the a pillar door jamb switches)? Or should I just cap that wire off?
 
Without the correct interior light there is no wire to hook the switched ground too. Just leaving inside the hard top side capped or not will not hurt anything.
 
Without the correct interior light there is no wire to hook the switched ground too. Just leaving inside the hard top side capped or not will not hurt anything.
Thanks! Would you then expect the light to work in simple on/off function? Doesn’t seem to be working hooked up this way.
 
Thanks! Would you then expect the light to work in simple on/off function? Doesn’t seem to be working hooked up this way.
Figured it out - always helps to be crystal clear on what’s ground and what’s hot…doh. Now the long wait for a unicorn three position, 82+ switch begins….

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Figured it out - always helps to be crystal clear on what’s ground and what’s hot…doh. Now the long wait for a unicorn three position, 82+ switch begins….

View attachment 3465359

Sorry, typed this out and didn't post it.

One of mounting screws should have a wire going to the switch. That what completes the circuit. Just mounting the top just ground the top. Post a picture of the inside of the light wirng
 
T
Sorry, typed this out and didn't post it.

One of mounting screws should have a wire going to the switch. That what completes the circuit. Just mounting the top just ground the top. Post a picture of the inside of the light wirng
Thanks! My issue is that the hot wire was green (with a small strip of red), and the ground is red (with a small strip of white). Thought red wire to the single switch wire (also red) was the way to go. I’m a dummy for not looking at the wiring diagram closely enough, as for the 82 models, green is noted as the supply line. All good now.
 
So I've recently picked up a 1975 FJ-40. My first 40, and I'm trying to sort out a few weird things on it, one of them being the inoperative Dome Light. The light is present, however the wiring is melted due to a dead short somewhere. I was able to quickly pull a new wire up from the fuse panel area (Shop vac and a long skinny hose attachment and piece of string makes it easy to get a pull string through the windshield frame with the windshield up and hard top on), and connect the wiring at the appropriate bullet connector near the fuse panel.

The light is surface mounted on the pillar with a single sheet metal screw, however mine is positioned so high that it covers where a hardtop screw should go, and there is no hole in the pillar and up into the channel along the top to route the wire from the light. The wire was simply pinched between the light and the pillar (Probably the source of that dead short years ago...) Photos I've seen online show a squared off hole in the pillar and a hole in the channel along the top for the wire to pass through.

A little more digging reveals the top of my 621 Green cruiser was at one time red, and so I'm unsure what year the top is. It doesn't look like there's a bunch of body filler on the pillar (However there is a ton elsewhere in this old Cruiser) Is it possible that this top was never setup for a dome light and it was simply added by the PO somewhere along way? Feeling around along the top lip, it appears that there *is* a hole in the fiberglass top, but the rubber seal is blocking passage into the pillar. Not sure if there is a hole in the top of the pillar.

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What type of rear doors do you have on your hard top? To my knowledge dome light was not an option. Until 9/73 the previous dome light was bolted to the cap. No hole in the B pillar
 

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