JDM Journeys
Moderator
As usual, as winter turns to fall and temps drop, there's a lot of talk about diesels in the cold, especially if you are new to winter dieseling... So I thought a run down of my experiences with preheating methods might be helpful? This is borne out of 18 years of JDM diesel experience in temps that can get down into the -40's celsius, which coincidentally, is also -40F, LOL. 

I'm not going into webasto, eberspacher (sp?) etc. These are the best options, but also spendy.
I've used almost all the 'quick' options. In order of efficiency from best to worst, here's what I've found:
1. Frost plug heater: puts a heater element in direct contact with water jacket. Efficient to heat the block, and gives you heat through your ducts in minutes... but you have to pick the right plug, and orient it exactly right in the block. There is potential for leaks at the oring, and if they're plugged in for long periods, the element tends to burn out over time. They're also a right royal pain to install. If you don't knock the frost plug into the water jacket AND overtighten the wing nut, then you're probably good to go. Overall best bang for buck. I didn't find a definitive answer as to WHERE it should be installed on the 1KZ or how it was clocked in the block, even though the diameter seemed to be the same as the 1HZ and other diesels. Ultimately, on my Prado 90, I went with option 2.
2. Lower rad hose heater - not as efficient as block heater, but does same job via the lower rad hose. Needs to be installed in a vertical length of the LRH. Coolant gets through the "jiggle valve" and eventually the partially open thermostat, contrary to what naysayers preach, and it does work. It's what I currently have on my 1HZ and previously ran on my 1KZ. To those who say these "don't work" I have thousands of starts at -30 celsius and below, that say otherwise. I find you have to plug this one in longer than a block heater to get the same result. Pros are ease and universality of install. Cons are that you need a straight vertical run of hose, and cutting a hose is another potential leak source. Additionally, the hose tends to wear quicker at the contact point, so keep an eye on it, and maybe replace it sooner...
3. Oil pan/pad heater. I see this as supplemental. It does heat the oil, but the water jacket is still freezing its butt off. It might make the difference between start and no start on a seriously cold day, but I haven't seen it make the start less smoky, or much smoother than without. Certainly does your engine a favour though. Downsides are many oil pans are fluted, which makes it sometimes difficult to adhere. Pick the size carefully. I think these are even more useful on an auto trans sump. But that's assuming you have an auto, and I try not to. LOL. In combo with frost plug or LRH heater I think this is a good idea. But on it's own? I'd go with option 1 or 2 first.
4. Magnetic sump heater? Not sure how much utility these have. We've never seen much difference. Perhaps if you have a nice flat sump?
5. Battery blanket - puts a wee bit of heat into a cold battery - not a bad thing, but if you're plugging in to mains, I'd heat the battery from the inside with a charger rather than dumping heat around the outside. Not worth the effort to me...
There are also convection types that aren't THAT much more expensive than the ones listed here, but they do require more room for install. I know folks who've had good luck with them, but I haven't used one so can't speak to the experience. Maybe Darren can pipe in and give a quick lesson on why it is a good way to preheat your diesel? @Rigster ? School is in!!
So in summary, if you want to have a smooth winter diesel starting experience? Aim for a clean/fresh fuel filter, synth oil, antifreeze that's been tested, winter diesel (obviously), and some sort of preheat method if you can plug in. Additionally, proper functioning glow plugs, clean grounds, and strong battery(es) will make life easier.
Doesn't hurt to carry some sort of antigel additive too,, in case you get some freezing as a result of a fillup...
Hope this helps someone? We went until yesterday with NO SNOW but we now have around 25 cm on the ground and more to come.
Cheers all
Phil

I'm not going into webasto, eberspacher (sp?) etc. These are the best options, but also spendy.
I've used almost all the 'quick' options. In order of efficiency from best to worst, here's what I've found:
1. Frost plug heater: puts a heater element in direct contact with water jacket. Efficient to heat the block, and gives you heat through your ducts in minutes... but you have to pick the right plug, and orient it exactly right in the block. There is potential for leaks at the oring, and if they're plugged in for long periods, the element tends to burn out over time. They're also a right royal pain to install. If you don't knock the frost plug into the water jacket AND overtighten the wing nut, then you're probably good to go. Overall best bang for buck. I didn't find a definitive answer as to WHERE it should be installed on the 1KZ or how it was clocked in the block, even though the diameter seemed to be the same as the 1HZ and other diesels. Ultimately, on my Prado 90, I went with option 2.
2. Lower rad hose heater - not as efficient as block heater, but does same job via the lower rad hose. Needs to be installed in a vertical length of the LRH. Coolant gets through the "jiggle valve" and eventually the partially open thermostat, contrary to what naysayers preach, and it does work. It's what I currently have on my 1HZ and previously ran on my 1KZ. To those who say these "don't work" I have thousands of starts at -30 celsius and below, that say otherwise. I find you have to plug this one in longer than a block heater to get the same result. Pros are ease and universality of install. Cons are that you need a straight vertical run of hose, and cutting a hose is another potential leak source. Additionally, the hose tends to wear quicker at the contact point, so keep an eye on it, and maybe replace it sooner...
3. Oil pan/pad heater. I see this as supplemental. It does heat the oil, but the water jacket is still freezing its butt off. It might make the difference between start and no start on a seriously cold day, but I haven't seen it make the start less smoky, or much smoother than without. Certainly does your engine a favour though. Downsides are many oil pans are fluted, which makes it sometimes difficult to adhere. Pick the size carefully. I think these are even more useful on an auto trans sump. But that's assuming you have an auto, and I try not to. LOL. In combo with frost plug or LRH heater I think this is a good idea. But on it's own? I'd go with option 1 or 2 first.
4. Magnetic sump heater? Not sure how much utility these have. We've never seen much difference. Perhaps if you have a nice flat sump?
5. Battery blanket - puts a wee bit of heat into a cold battery - not a bad thing, but if you're plugging in to mains, I'd heat the battery from the inside with a charger rather than dumping heat around the outside. Not worth the effort to me...
There are also convection types that aren't THAT much more expensive than the ones listed here, but they do require more room for install. I know folks who've had good luck with them, but I haven't used one so can't speak to the experience. Maybe Darren can pipe in and give a quick lesson on why it is a good way to preheat your diesel? @Rigster ? School is in!!

So in summary, if you want to have a smooth winter diesel starting experience? Aim for a clean/fresh fuel filter, synth oil, antifreeze that's been tested, winter diesel (obviously), and some sort of preheat method if you can plug in. Additionally, proper functioning glow plugs, clean grounds, and strong battery(es) will make life easier.
Doesn't hurt to carry some sort of antigel additive too,, in case you get some freezing as a result of a fillup...
Hope this helps someone? We went until yesterday with NO SNOW but we now have around 25 cm on the ground and more to come.

Cheers all
Phil