Window Seals/Weatherstripping Overhaul

[MurderBird45]

A How To/ All you need to know about window channel/run replacement

forum.ih8mud.com

This thread has everything you need to know, except regulator greasing. I just did it yesterday on the passenger side, I did remove the window as stated in the directions but only because I wanted to clean all the s*** off the unexposed portion of glass. Also, after having done the driver's side, I didn't use any lubricant in the run. It just gets all over the window every time you roll it down. Works fine without it.

 

[StaticTorque]

A How To/ All you need to know about window channel/run replacement

forum.ih8mud.com

This thread has everything you need to know, except regulator greasing. I just did it yesterday on the passenger side, I did remove the window as stated in the directions but only because I wanted to clean all the s*** off the unexposed portion of glass. Also, after having done the driver's side, I didn't use any lubricant in the run. It just gets all over the window every time yo roll it down. Works fine without it.

I had not found this thread, thank you! That’s kind of another reasoning to do it that way. If I’m going that far on, might as well do it ALL. Thank you for the input! I was only wondering about the metal on metal parts.

 

[gummycarbs]

My rear windows were almost immovable during wet Oregon winter. I replaced the window motors with aftermarket (Dorman VDO WL42066 and WL42067 from RockAuto) and cleaned and greased the regulators. That improved things, but they would still barely move after several weeks of rain. I replaced the channel runs and it really didn't make a difference in window speed.

I finally caved and sprayed the channel runs with DRY silicone lube. Now the windows work consistently.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

@gummycarbs you think I could also use this in my exterior DS lock? My key sticks like crazy going in every time. I'm not in the WD40 camp, it's going to attract crazy grit and grime.

I read another thread from 2017 where you commented that you just bought a whole new lock and ignition set and it had some kind of wax in there...

 

[StaticTorque]

@gummycarbs you think I could also use this in my exterior DS lock? My key sticks like crazy going in every time. I'm not in the WD40 camp, it's going to attract crazy grit and grime.

I read another thread from 2017 where you commented that you just bought a whole new lock and ignition set and it had some kind of wax in there...

I just replaced my LX lock set with a Toyota one lmao

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

Hmmmmmm, I too have an LX.

So Toyota ignition, as well? @StaticTorque

 

[StaticTorque]

Hmmmmmm, I too have an LX.

So Toyota ignition, as well? @StaticTorque

Yep, Toyota ignition also. Toyota doesn't sell a full lock set anymore. But you can buy it from @Delta VS . That's where I got mine and was very happy with it. They're awesome over there.

 

[Pascoscout]

Having already replaced all my runs and moldings last year and just removed all the windows again to take off old tinting and polish off the hard water stains I would recommend removing the glass all the way to do the seal replacement work. It takes only a few minutes to do and gets you so much more room to get your seals and belt moldings in place. Sure you can work around the glass but I find it easier to pull it from the door.

For the little rear window what you do is roll the glass all the way down. Then you can reach inside the door and pop the wheel off the track allowing the glass to drop down in the door a little more. Remove the two bolts on the door panel that hold the rear track in and the one screw in the top of the door frame. Its under the weather striping The track should now be able to be leaned towards the center of the window area at the top and then pulled up and out of the door. You will have to rotate it 90 degrees to clear one of the tabs. This then allows you to slide (use the term loosely the glass is in tight) the little rear glass towards the center of the door. I usually start at the top and angle it over slightly until I can pop the top out of the track. Install the new gasket and put it all back in reverse order.

For lubing the mechanisms I just used white lithium grease. Seems to be working just fine and after a year there's no noticeable dirt build up.

 

[StaticTorque]

Having already replaced all my runs and moldings last year and just removed all the windows again to take off old tinting and polish off the hard water stains I would recommend removing the glass all the way to do the seal replacement work. It takes only a few minutes to do and gets you so much more room to get your seals and belt moldings in place. Sure you can work around the glass but I find it easier to pull it from the door.

For the little rear window what you do is roll the glass all the way down. Then you can reach inside the door and pop the wheel off the track allowing the glass to drop down in the door a little more. Remove the two bolts on the door panel that hold the rear track in and the one screw in the top of the door frame. Its under the weather striping The track should now be able to be leaned towards the center of the window area at the top and then pulled up and out of the door. You will have to rotate it 90 degrees to clear one of the tabs. This then allows you to slide (use the term loosely the glass is in tight) the little rear glass towards the center of the door. I usually start at the top and angle it over slightly until I can pop the top out of the track. Install the new gasket and put it all back in reverse order.

For lubing the mechanisms I just used white lithium grease. Seems to be working just fine and after a year there's no noticeable dirt build up.

Wow! Thank you! I hadn’t been able to find anything on here about removing that small window. Thank you for that!

 

[80t0ylc]

Having already replaced all my runs and moldings last year and just removed all the windows again to take off old tinting and polish off the hard water stains I would recommend removing the glass all the way to do the seal replacement work. It takes only a few minutes to do and gets you so much more room to get your seals and belt moldings in place. Sure you can work around the glass but I find it easier to pull it from the door...........

That sounds logical. It would also seem to me that it would be a good opportunity to clean the edges of the glass that slide in the runs. That sounds important, since dirt and grime on the edges could contaminate new or freshly cleaned window runs and screw up your efforts to fix the problem.

 

[Pascoscout]

Wow! Thank you! I hadn’t been able to find anything on here about removing that small window. Thank you for that!

I'll be over in Vancouver next week. If you'd like some pointers let me know and I can meet up with you. Will be there Wednesday and Thursday evenings.

 

[Pascoscout]

That sounds logical. It would also seem to me that it would be a good opportunity to clean the edges of the glass that slide in the runs. That sounds important, since dirt and grime on the edges could contaminate new or freshly cleaned window runs and screw up your efforts to fix the problem.

Yeah I forgot to mention that I cleaned the edges of the glass and polished them with cerium powder. You can get a kit with the powder and a polish wheel on Amazon for not too much. Great stuff, removes hard water stains and minor scratches from the glass. You can only use it on the outside if you have the factory solar coating or any aftermarket tinting though.

 

[gummycarbs]

@gummycarbs you think I could also use this in my exterior DS lock? My key sticks like crazy going in every time. I'm not in the WD40 camp, it's going to attract crazy grit and grime.

I read another thread from 2017 where you commented that you just bought a whole new lock and ignition set and it had some kind of wax in there...

I seem to remember something about the old grease turning yellow and waxy. Didn't take any pictures, unfortunately. Here's what a brand-new door lock cylinder looks like:

There's clearly grease at the end, but I don't see any on the tumblers, if that's even the right term for what we're looking at.

Maybe @ToyotaMatt has some idea how they're greased from factory. He's been posting a lot about keys lately.

I can tell you that I recently improved a Honda motorcycle lock cylinder by cleaning it with brake cleaner shot into the key-way, running the key in and out, turning it several times, followed by some graphite Lock-Ease aerosol. Unless corrected by a Toyota expert, I'll go with what I've always been told: use graphite for lock cylinders.

 

[StaticTorque]

I'll be over in Vancouver next week. If you'd like some pointers let me know and I can meet up with you. Will be there Wednesday and Thursday evenings.

I plan on starting it today. But it’s so damn cold I don’t know if I will. No garage heater at the moment. But yeah that’d be great! I’ll let ya know though! Appreciate it.

 

[donemilio21]

following as I'm planning to do the same within this year.
OP,
It looks like you already ordered all the seals, how much did it cost you?

 

[StaticTorque]

following as I'm planning to do the same within this year.
OP,
It looks like you already ordered all the seals, how much did it cost you?

Yeah I have everything already. Cost me around $1,100-$1,200 in total. Including shipping.

 

[80t0ylc]

Yeah I have everything already. Cost me around $1,100-$1,200 in total. Including shipping.

I checked on Partsouq for the window runs and they were roughly $50/ door or $200 for all doors. What else cost so much?

 

[StaticTorque]

I checked on Partsouq for the window runs and they were roughly $50/ door or $200 for all doors. What else cost so much?

Check my other thread out Here. All the part numbers there, I ordered. Except the 3rd row molding.

 

[CJF]

@gummycarbs you think I could also use this in my exterior DS lock? My key sticks like crazy going in every time. I'm not in the WD40 camp, it's going to attract crazy grit and grime.

Lol.

That's such a stupid myth. My 91's locks used to stick like you said, so I sprayed WD-40 in the slots. (I've used it on plenty of padlocks etc. too.) Instant fix, no problems since. That was at least 15 years ago.

 

[Pascoscout]

I can tell you that I recently improved a Honda motorcycle lock cylinder by cleaning it with brake cleaner shot into the key-way, running the key in and out, turning it several times, followed by some graphite Lock-Ease aerosol. Unless corrected by a Toyota expert, I'll go with what I've always been told: use graphite for lock cylinders.

Part of the work I just did included rust repair on the rear hatch. I had to take everything out so I took the time to clean things up before they went back in. The rear hatch lock set was full of hardened grease and didn't work too well. I did basically what @gummycarbs did. Cleaned it thoroughly with brake clean, working the key in and out while spraying the cleaner inside. Once it was clean and working smooth I added a little dry graphite lube. I've never used anything but graphite lube on locks unless I know they are rusted and I am trying to break them free. After they are free I always clean them and lube with dry graphite.

I'd personally avoid traditional WD40 or anything oil based in locks. They do make a product with WD40 on the label that is a dry silicon based lube that might work fine though.