Window Seals/Weatherstripping Overhaul (1 Viewer)

[StaticTorque]

As I do live in the PNW we get lots of rain. Before I bought my 80 almost a year and a half ago PO said he would change the seals. Now that its on the West side of the country its starting to show. Most of my windows have been working very slowly in the cold, window runs are getting pretty hard and gunky. Or just getting torn apart. This weekend I'm going to start working on replacing everything. Going to be a slow process because my goal is to get one window done per weekend. As I have never done anything like this.

Before I do start I do have a couple questions. What grease/lube do you guys use for the window motor? The rails more specifically, mine are pretty dry.
Also, how exactly do you remove the glass from the door? You just unbolt the 2 10mm bolts on the glass then it slides up and out of the door?

 

[jonheld]

Belt moldings and door weather stripping take about 2 hours to do all 4 doors. That's including cleaning all surfaces once the old stuff is removed.
Window glass does not have to be removed to do window runs.

 

[StaticTorque]

Belt moldings and door weather stripping take about 2 hours to do all 4 doors. That's including cleaning all surfaces once the old stuff is removed.
Window glass does not have to be removed to do window runs.

I’m replacing the rubber piece at the bottom of the window. So I have to remove the window to access it to pull it out.
Well that’s good to hear. I was worried. But I’m also replacing the seal on the small window for the back door and I haven’t found anything about taking that out.

 

[jonheld]

I’m replacing the rubber piece at the bottom of the window. So I have to remove the window to access it to pull it out.

Nope. The rubber piece sits inside the bottom support that the window regulator slides into. All of this stuff can be done with the window glass in place through access holes in the door.

 

[StaticTorque]

Nope. The rubber piece sits inside the bottom support that the window regulator slides into. All of this stuff can be done with the window glass in place through access holes in the door.

Part # 69971-90D00 ?
That’s the part you’re talking about? I have to pull the LH front window cause it came out of that channel

 

[leonard_nemoy]

Maybe consider replacing the regulators. I replaced all the rubber, cleaned my motor and regulator, lubed everything, and my windows only got a tiny bit faster. If I was going to do this again I would just bite the bullet and do the regulators but I also hate taking the door cards off......

 

[StaticTorque]

Maybe consider replacing the regulators. I replaced all the rubber, cleaned my motor and regulator, lubed everything, and my windows only got a tiny bit faster. If I was going to do this again I would just bite the bullet and do the regulators but I also hate taking the door cards off......

I’ll look into it. My main priority wasn’t to fix the slow windows, but to replace the seals cause they’re pretty bad. Just was a plus.
What lube did you use?

 

[leonard_nemoy]

What lube did you use?

I forgot the name of the lube but I bought two kinds from a local auto glass shop. One was a spray lube for th window runs and the other was a special kind of grease for the regulators.

 

[jonheld]

Part # 69971-90D00 ?
That’s the part you’re talking about? I have to pull the LH front window cause it came out of that channel

Yes, FILLER, FRONT DOOR GLASS CHANNEL
Fits into 69902-60010 LIFT CHANNEL.
This can all be done with the glass in place, but if you wish to remove it, then go for it.
Also, you should not need to add grease to the new window runs other than a bit of soapy water in the metal channel to help slide the new runs into place.
Old window runs get very hard over the years and prevent the glass from sliding properly. This is also the main reason why the glass pops out of the lift channels when lowering the windows.

 

[StaticTorque]

Yes, FILLER, FRONT DOOR GLASS CHANNEL
Fits into 69902-60010 LIFT CHANNEL.
This can all be done with the glass in place, but if you wish to remove it, then go for it.
Also, you should not need to add grease to the new window runs other than a bit of soapy water in the metal channel to help slide the new runs into place.
Old window runs get very hard over the years and prevent the glass from sliding properly. This is also the main reason why the glass pops out of the lift channels when lowering the windows.

Oh wow, I just didn’t think you could because of how tight the fitment was. I tried popping my window back in there and it was a PIA. Then I rolled the window back down and it popped out. The lube is for the rails connected to the motor. I read that they needed to be lubed/greased so they can move easier.
In a video I was watching the guy was doing the same thing. And he said it was easier to take the window out and replace it.

 

[Dirt Ferguson]

I’ve done all this over the last 6 months. I definitely did not remove the glass to install the window runs.

I know there are some threads that talk about doing it that way, but it’s not necessary by any means. The windows being half way down was enough for me.

 

[StaticTorque]

I’ve done all this over the last 6 months. I definitely did not remove the glass to install the window runs.

I know there are some threads that talk about doing it that way, but it’s not necessary by any means. The windows being half way down was enough for me.

Cool, well if I don’t have to do that for the rest of the windows that’s a plus.

 

[StaticTorque]

Yes, FILLER, FRONT DOOR GLASS CHANNEL
Fits into 69902-60010 LIFT CHANNEL.
This can all be done with the glass in place, but if you wish to remove it, then go for it.
Also, you should not need to add grease to the new window runs other than a bit of soapy water in the metal channel to help slide the new runs into place.
Old window runs get very hard over the years and prevent the glass from sliding properly. This is also the main reason why the glass pops out of the lift channels when lowering the windows.

The grease is for part # 69802-60010

 

[hl krawler]

This guy regreased his window motor and channel, used mercedes source grease. Ive bought stuff for an old mercedes from them before great guys.

 

[StaticTorque]

This guy regreased his window motor and channel, used mercedes source grease. Ive bought stuff for an old mercedes from them before great guys.

This is the exact video I watched for replacing that stuff lol

 

[hl krawler]

Well there ya go, get the goop from there you wont be disappointed.

 

[Malleus]

If want to know how to do all this, how about reading up on it?

 

[StaticTorque]

If want to know how to do all this, how about reading up on it?

Who said I didn’t? I just wanted to get everyone else’s thoughts on how they did. I have an FSM. But thank you, REALLY appreciate it

 

[80t0ylc]

I'll soon be cleaning out my window channels, and just personal opinion, but I won't be using any type of grease in them. For sure in the mechanicals where there's metal on metal contact - that needs replenished over the years. Dirt, sand and foreign debris cling to grease and unless you want to be cleaning your channels out on a yearly basis, I'd avoid any grease in them. I want to do it once and then again maybe in 8 - 10 yrs. But, if they're still in good shape - no cracks or missing sections - clean and smooth should work great. Maybe spray in some Armor All to help restore the rubber and wipe the channels clean and dry. If they're in bad shape - replace them. Window channels seem to be a target for gritty debris, but you don't want to make it worse by supplying an environment that holds any more grit, IMHO.

 

[StaticTorque]

the mechanicals where there's metal on metal contact

That is exactly where I was talking about. Not in the channels or anything like that. Maybe a little soapy water to help it get in there but that’s it. Not sure if you saw the picture above, but I have all the parts already lol. Everything is getting replaced. Even the small window seal on the back doors.