Where to buy grey carpet??? (speakerbox type) (1 Viewer)

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MY local Home Depot carrys the stuff at a respectable price.

Sam
 
I would like detail on your wiring route as well.
 
cruiserdan said:
I would like detail on your wiring route as well.

Yes, details of that will be posted as well.

We just finished up the actual dual bat setup about 20 mins ago.

Here are some pics of my simple dual bat setup. Its a super simple and fool proof setup. It uses No solenoid or isolator and requires that the driver (me) be diligent on switching the batteries back and forth to make sure they stay charged @ all times!! I figure its cheaper, just as good (minus a little leg work), just as safe and useful and less stuff to go wrong in the middle of no where. Pretty much the same setup as the one on the slee site minus the isolator and relays.

Aside from the invconvienence of having to switch it manually does anything see anything drastically wrong here?

bats4.jpg


bats3.jpg


bats2.jpg
 
Looks nice. If you wanted to camo it a little, and make it look oem you could put some of that black corrugated split loom tubing over the wires. It's cheap and would look just like stock.
 
Erratic said:
Looks nice. If you wanted to camo it a little, and make it look oem you could put some of that black corrugated split loom tubing over the wires. It's cheap and would look just like stock.

Yeah, that is going on for sure. This is just the first run at it. I am going to tighten it up a bit and run it for awhile and if all works ok, i am going to tweak the install so that it is nice and clean and hidden!
 
Boston Mangler said:
...does anything see anything drastically wrong here?
Here is my opinion for your consideration. Take this in the light of peer review, and not criticism.

1) Need to cover positive battery termainals - safety hazard.

2) There is now a lot more unfused heavy gauge wiring encircling the engine compartment. This is another hazard. Consider how to minimize chafing and also conductor damage that could occur due to traffic accident. Dual battery systems inevitably require additional wiring. High capacity fuses located close to or at the batteries and more direct cable routing can reduce the risk associated with the additional wiring. There is room to route cable in front of radiator underneath the sheetmetal where the hood latch is mounted.

3) Be aware that shutting battery switch to off while engine is running may fry alternator and other devices due to voltage spike. There are battery switches that will first disconnect alternator field wiring prior to switching off both batteries and prevent the large voltage spike that otherwise would occur. Land Cruiser alternator would have to be modified to enable this capability. You might want to put a cover over the switch to reduce the chance that a joker would switch it off while engine is running.

4) In the absence of automatic parallel charging the most convienent operating approach would be to leave switch in the "Both" position, and then to isolate to one battery or another when chance of draining battery (camping, winching, etc) occurs. When charging and discharging in parallel mode (switched to both) it is much better to use identical batteries.

I posted a schematic in outfitting quite a while ago that utilizes same type of battery switch, with the addition of a soleniod to enable selectable automatic charging and that also includes an additional manual switch to lock out power to winch for security purposes.

I have gone to the trouble to design a system, but have not done what you have, which is to install a system. I commend you for that.
 
Rich said:
Here is my opinion for your consideration. Take this in the light of peer review, and not criticism.

1) Need to cover positive battery termainals - safety hazard.

Yes, that will be done in the next day or 2! Thanks Trying to find some covers that will fit nicely over the military terminals that i used!

Rich said:
2) There is now a lot more unfused heavy gauge wiring encircling the engine compartment. This is another hazard. Consider how to minimize chafing and also conductor damage that could occur due to traffic accident. Dual battery systems inevitably require additional wiring. High capacity fuses located close to or at the batteries and more direct cable routing can reduce the risk associated with the additional wiring. There is room to route cable in front of radiator underneath the sheetmetal where the hood latch is mounted.

The cables will be wrapped in the spiral wrap ASAP when i can get more time to work on this. That will be one of the next things done on this project!

Rich said:
3) Be aware that shutting battery switch to off while engine is running may fry alternator and other devices due to voltage spike. There are battery switches that will first disconnect alternator field wiring prior to switching off both batteries and prevent the large voltage spike that otherwise would occur. Land Cruiser alternator would have to be modified to enable this capability. You might want to put a cover over the switch to reduce the chance that a joker would switch it off while engine is running.

Correct, i am very careful about certain things and i will make sure to NEVER turn that switch to OFF when running. My friend that helped me with this and who has done many of these strongly reminded me not to turn it to off when running! The only time it will EVER be turned to OFF is if it is in a sketchy area and i want another theft deterrent. As of now, when the switch goes to off, the ECU and the radio presets will be reset. I want to eliminate doing this as much as possible and come up with a bypass for it. We are still working on the final touchs and this is something i need to address.

Rich said:
4) In the absence of automatic parallel charging the most convienent operating approach would be to leave switch in the "Both" position, and then to isolate to one battery or another when chance of draining battery (camping, winching, etc) occurs. When charging and discharging in parallel mode (switched to both) it is much better to use identical batteries.

Yes, but wouldnt charging both batteries @ the same time put too much strain on the alternator? My goal is this: I want the AUX battery to hook up a power inverter and my fridge/freezer to. I dont want either accesory draining from the "Main" battery. My plan is to drive everyday on the MAIN battery and occasionally switch it to the AUX to keep it charged. Then when i am camping. I would switch it to the AUX ONLY ( to drain from that only and keep the main fresh) and run my fridge and inverter straight from that and when it time to drive home, switch over to the main and be on my way. What are your thoughts on this idea? I am new to this and this is just a brainstorm so any input is welcome! Except for the usualy wiseass remarks of course! :flipoff2:

Rich said:
I posted a schematic in outfitting quite a while ago that utilizes same type of battery switch, with the addition of a soleniod to enable selectable automatic charging and that also includes an additional manual switch to lock out power to winch for security purposes.

Yeah, slee and george scolaro both have schematics like that. I want to try to keep this system plain and simple. I am thinking i will try out what i have and if it doesnt work so well, i will add the solenoid and relays and such, but i am pretty sure our current idea will work ok. Your thoughts?

Rich said:
I have gone to the trouble to design a system, but have not done what you have, which is to install a system. I commend you for that.

Thanks, i love trying new things and breaking the mold. Only problem is, that on something like this, you can do mucho damago to your rig if your not careful!

We shall see!

Thanks for your input!
 
I would not be too concerned about the parallel charging of both batteries, other than the fact that they are not identical. That is an issue for battery life, not the alternator. I do think, given your setup, that identical batteries, with switch usually on both is most practicle. Separate batteries when using fridge or inverter when engine is off. But my recommendation would be to also add an automatic paralleling solenoid that you could switch off when not desired.

My design, while sharing some elements of George's is quite a bit different than George's. To the best of my memory, Slee's design is a clone of George's. The most significant difference is that I use the main switch to be able to switch all vehicle loads between either or both batteries. I don't isolate different loads to different batteries. My design switches all loads between the two batteries. This makes both of the batteries fully redundent. George's design uses the switch to control the winch load, not all vehicle loads.
 
I found that the Lowes had better grade carpet in more colors than Home Depot. Could have just been here though...
 
Rich said:
I would not be too concerned about the parallel charging of both batteries, other than the fact that they are not identical. That is an issue for battery life, not the alternator. I do think, given your setup, that identical batteries, with switch usually on both is most practicle. Separate batteries when using fridge or inverter when engine is off. But my recommendation would be to also add an automatic paralleling solenoid that you could switch off when not desired.

My design, while sharing some elements of George's is quite a bit different than George's. To the best of my memory, Slee's design is a clone of George's. The most significant difference is that I use the main switch to be able to switch all vehicle loads between either or both batteries. I don't isolate different loads to different batteries. My design switches all loads between the two batteries. This makes both of the batteries fully redundent. George's design uses the switch to control the winch load, not all vehicle loads.

Thanks Rich!

Any chance you could dig up that schematic? I searched in the outfitting section with no luck.

Thanks
 
Boston Mangler said:
Thanks Rich!

Any chance you could dig up that schematic? I searched in the outfitting section with no luck.

Thanks

You didn't look very hard.

Here is the thread started by Rich in Outfitting describing his scheme for a dual battery install. The thread is titled "Dual Battery Diagram"

-B-
 
Beowulf said:
You didn't look very hard.

Here is the thread started by Rich in Outfitting describing his scheme for a dual battery install. The thread is titled "Dual Battery Diagram"

-B-

Thanks B

I gotta run to work right now, but i got a few questions, i will post up later.

Thanks
 
As of now, here is my setup:

Do you see any safety issues with this?

Do you forsee any problems with me NOT using a solenoid as of yet? What would the results be as i have it now?

Thanks for the info, i am new to this! :D
bat diagram.jpg
 
Solenoid is for convienence of automatic charging only and lack of one is not a saftey issue, other than an increased risk of an unexpected dead battery.

Did you install the two very large fuses?

Sizing these fuses is interesting problem, as the heavy starting and winching loads are intermittent. Fuses sized to the continuous ampacity of practical sized cables would possibly fail under normal starting loads. For myself, I am inclined to go with 500 amp fuses with 2/0 gauge wire. The fuses I expet are large enough to handle starter and winch loads, and I expect they wouold provide acceptable protection for cables that only intermittently see large currents.

Regardless of fuses, I already mentioned that I thought that running the cabling all around the periphery of the engine compartment was an increased risk (compared to minimal unfused cable in factory single battery setup). Shortest, most protected cable run would be best. I appreciate routing is challenging. My inclination would be to run the wiring directly between the batteries, and then back from the factory battery to the firewall, not along either fender. Doing this would require fabricating some standoffs for routing the cable.

I endeavor to consider the worst case, and then try to minimize the possible risk associated. Kind of like expect the worst, and then make it better.
 
Fuses are coming soon! As is the wrapping of the cables!

I want to iron everything out and make sure everything works as planned before i start finising details.

So, my setup is perfectly safe (once fuses are added)????

As long as i keep diligent about periodically switching the battery switch between 1 and 2 to keep both charged, i am fine?
 
Well, keep in mindy you are on your own regarding fuse sizing!

Determine how much your starter draws. Determine what is acceptable current draw on the cable that you installed. Tradeoffs are required. Not possible to make system ftotally ail safe and manage cost to a reasonable level.

Also keep in mind possible consequences if you can't start engine when you are stalled on the train tracks!

I'm not kidding about expect the worst and then design accordingly, within reason.
 
Thanks Rich!

Basically, I am asking if you see any "Fatal Flaws" in my current setup? I am on my way to 5 days in Baja soon and dont want to find out i did something wrong when i am there! :D

Where do i buy the "Dual Batteries For Dummies" book?? :D
 
What you have installed is a typical, manually switched parallel battery system. I've shared my opinion on all riskes of which I am aware.

Baja should be fun. Watch out for the cows at night. In baja, if you hit a cow, you get to buy it - whether you want it or not! Bring steak knives.
 

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